Chris Barrell Our Man in Monze - MONZE 2011

Livingstone & Victoria Falls

2011-09-13T20:27:00.019+01:00

13th September 2011

At last I think that I am on the mend! Yesterday we had a trustees meeting for Hands Around the World and I am beginning to realise how much work I need to do! My involvement in Zambia and wider issues in connection with HATW do not finish when I leave Zambia. In fact I am almost as busy back here in the UK. I am aware that I need to get back in touch with a number of people - I missed some calls from Jennipher yesterday and need to follow that up.

So lets complete my 2011 Zambia blog by filling in the final few days.

The days during the final week or so were characterised by the customary bright sun and clear skies welcoming the day. The early mornings being pleasantly cool (perhaps 14°C or 15°C) and the temperatures then quickly rising to the upper twenties and low thirties. In fact very pleasant and uplifting weather.

We decided to go to mass at the chapel on the Sunday, despite Fr. Kenan having to say a later mass at the Cathedral. We had already told the parishioners at Our Lady of the Wayside that we wouldn't be around. We didn't want to be rushing and, to be honest, a service of an hour in English was a more comfortable prospect than a two hour Chitonga mass.

The original intention was to leave at about 10 hours and get to Livingstone at lunchtime – in the event we left after lunch and it was nearly 14hrs before we got underway.

Fr. Kenan's car had a few few problems and he therefore arranged that we swapped his car with his sister's 4x4 when we got to Choma. At Pemba we picked up Jennipher, who was waiting on the main road.

Somehow I had forgotten to bring my driving licence, but I did share some of the driving. We had arranged to stay at a lodge suggested by Judy's brother. On arrival we sorted out rooms and had a chance to freshen up. It was a change to have rooms with en-suite facilities (and televisions – even if the channel choice was a bit limited!!)

I thought we should enjoy something of Livingstone in the evening, so Fr. Kenan suggested we had a take-away, before heading to the “Waterfront”. It immediately struck me that we had entered a different world where most of the people had light skins and were tourists. One guy, who probably had too much to drink, made monkey noises as we arrived. It was only afterwards that I realised that this was a racist gesture – presumably directed at my friends. It is sad that such ignorant behaviour is still present, especially when it is directed at the local people.

Ignoring this, we settled on some stools at the edge of the Zambezi and enjoyed a drink looking out at the boats and very different scenery to that which we had been accustomed. It was a pleasure to have Fr. Kenan and Jennipher with us – people who we have come to know over the years and who have become a very important part of our life and our worldwide family.

We relaxed for an hour or more before returning to the lodge. Fr. Kenan and myself chatted for some time while Dilys, Jennipher and Amy settled into their new surroundings. Fr. Kenan was not feeling on top form but felt he had things under control.

We had agreed to meet for breakfast at 8 hrs. We had planned a very full day and wanted an early start. In the event it was nearly 10 hrs when we arrived at the 'Game Park'. Somehow I knew that it would be a special day – the later than intended start didn't worry me. While I sorted out the entrance processes with Fr. Kenan, Jennipher joined Amy and Dilys watching hippos in the Zambezi! The vehicle we had proved ideal for the conditions we found. The roads were not too bad, but a four wheel drive with a high wheel base was a distinct advantage. The open roof was also a great benefit – allowing Amy and me to get a very good view from the top of the vehicle. Amy and Jennipher seemed to have exceptional eyesight spotting animals that took us a long time to see. Very quickly we saw herds of impala and had some good views, Fr. Kenan spotted a herd of buffalo not far away. On several trips to Lochinvar and previous visits to Livingstone I have failed to spot buffalo, so for me this was a particular delight. Jennipher was an expert at spotting Giraffes, which blended so well with the trees that it was only with patience that she enabled us to observe what she saw so clearly. At one time she told us that there were two giraffes – one a baby lying down. I couldn't see either, but eventually Fr. Kenan managed to manoeuvre the car to enable us to get a clear view. It's the first time I have seen a giraffe seated! The delights continued. I spotted some elephants, we passed some warthogs and came across a small herd of wilderbeest. We expected to meet some zebra but so far they had proved elusive. Fr. Kenan was debating which way to go and then decided to take a particular route, which felt right to him. I also felt we were going the right way and, sure enough, before long a small group of zebra were spotted not far from us. We continued for a while and then Fr. Kenan decided to turn around and try to find the wardens who would know where the white rhino would be. It had been a remarkable visit and I couldn't help recall the walks I used to do on the Cotswold Way. I had been used to doing circular walks – but this was not practical when following this long trail. I therefore got used to walking for 5- 10 miles, then turning around and returning along the same path. I grew to like this type of walk. In many ways the return walk was where the real benefit was. Though a bit weary, I would start back having left a lot of the cares and tensions with which I started. The journey became a bit familiar and comforting, but the perspective very different and it seemed that in many ways the walk mirrored my inner journey at that time. Turning around at the park again gave me hope – though I hardly thought that we could improve on our experience so far.

We were immediately rewarded with a herd of zebra very close to the car – we stopped for a while as they moved around us, crossing the road a few metres from the car. Eventually we found the park officers close to the Zambezi at one end of the park. One guy jumped aboard our vehicle with his gun and he directed Fr. Kenan. He told us to stop the car and asked if we could see the rhino. We saw nothing! He invited us to get out of the car and gave us some instructions about how to follow him towards the animals. Soon we spotted the rhinos in the distance. I had this experience in 2003 on my first visit and was not surprised when we gradually made our way to a place within about 20 metres of this huge animals. The warden called to them as we arrived and they raised there heads in acknowledgement.
It was a little difficult to realise that these were very powerful wild animals so close to us. Obviously the wardens know them very well and have even built up some sort of relationship with them. One of the rhinos was pregnant and the warden said they were increasing in numbers. He told me that they didn't attack cars. Though he then added that Gumboot – one of the animals I met last time – had died. Gumboot had taken to attacking cars and I think he had written off 49 when I met him!!

When returning with the warden we came across a herd of buffalo – some of us got out of the car to get a better look, but unfortunately they ran off before we could get close.

We said goodbye and headed out of the park, but not before we saw many more hippos – some on the island in the middle of the Zambezi and a small herd of elephants that were heading our way!

It was an unexpected delight for Amy to go 'on safari' – she was keen to let them know back home that she was experiencing something that friends had longed to have the opportunity to do.

On our way to Victoria Falls we met more elephants on side of the road. Fr. Kenan dropped us off and headed back to the lodge for an hour's rest. It was the first time for Amy to see the falls and Jennipher's first time to see them close – neither were disappointed by the spectacle. At this time of the year the amount of water can be disappointing, but perhaps because of the cooler weather and heavier late rains the falls were looking good. As Amy reminded her mother, these are the 'big' falls - beating Niagara in all aspects! There was enough water to produce the impressive rainbows for which Victoria falls are famous. There was also a pleasant spray which blessed us with precious water, which was refreshing and cooling in the hot sun. I couldn't help but look at very small sections of the waterfall and think how we would wax lyrical if we had something like that in our garden – here there were many thousands of such beautiful sections. In case we doubted that God was there offering his covenant, there was even a double rainbow at the end of our walk.

I was delighted to be able to share the experience with Jennipher, Amy and Dilys – it was a pity that Fr. Kenan wasn't up to joining us on this occasion.

The experience for Dilys was very different to that in 2006, when there was little water at the falls and we saw very few animals. The one animal that was absent from the Falls this time was the baboon. These had become a bit of a menace and I wonder whether steps had been taken to remove them.

We knew that we were cutting it fine when Fr. Kenan picked us up a little after 16hrs. He told us that he met a herd of elephants crossing the road on his way to the lodge – after waiting a while he followed the car in front which drove between them! We headed to the river to pick up a sunset cruise. There was not a lot of activity by the boat we had chosen. The site was pleasant with a small pool – which Amy looked at wishing she had come prepared for a swim – and tables overlooking the Zambezi. We were told that they did not intend to have a cruise that evening and we should have been in touch earlier. The staff rang a nearby cruise which was full and had left anyway. It appeared that we had missed out by ½ hour or so. I was a bit surprised that it appeared that the day would end in disappointment. Then we were told that it we waited a few minutes they would prepare the boat just for our small party! In the event a lady from Barcelona joined us to make a party of six people and three crew!

We were treated to views of hippos, elephants, giraffes, baboons and crocodiles as well as a variety of birds. The crew were very knowledgeable about the wildlife and we had their personal attention and traversed the river to get a better look at anything of interest. We had a brie (barbecue) of chicken and sausages and were supplied with any drinks we required. Altogether another wonderful and magical experience to complete a very special day.

We returned to the lodge very content. Fr. Kenan turned in early, while the rest of us enjoyed a game of cards.

We had intended visiting the museum and craft park on Tuesday morning, but unfortunately Dilys slipped on a mat and chipped a couple of teeth and Fr. Kenan was still suffering. I also had some things to do back in Monze, so we decided to go briefly into town and then make tracks back home. I was happy to do my fair share of driving and we tried to arrange to see Sr Christeta in Choma.

Sr. Christeta used to be in charge of the project for orphaned children at Monze Mission Hospital – Buntolo. Dilys met her in 2006 and they got on very well. She has since moved not far from Choma. Attempts to call her en-route to say we would be early failed. However, the Lord had everything in hand and, as we entered Choma, we noticed her walking along the road. She was with her sister and we all joined forces and went to a local café for a small meal.

It gave Dilys and Sr. Christeta a chance to catch up and for Amy to meet another amazing Zambian character. Sr. Christeta is the bubbliest Zambian I have ever met – probably the bubbliest person worldwide come to think of it! She seemed to be empowered by Dilys and her encouragement in the area of child bereavement. As a result of this Sr. Christeta has introduced some of the concepts into the work she does and has passed them on to the people now working at Buntola. Dilys started to realise just how much she was able to offer and with more time what she might be able to do. Maybe another year she will be able to follow up on some of these ideas.

We arrived back in Monze at about 16 hours and I immediately got to work. It was after 19.30 when we headed for the priests' house for supper. By this time I had covered a considerable distance visiting the hospital, District Office, convent and Mrs. Sianga's house (where I delivered a couple of laptops) among other places.

It was good not to have to cook in the evening, because there was still some packing and cleaning still to do.

I was up by 6 hrs on the Wednesday and, after mass, paid a visit to the bank, called around at the priests' house to say goodbye to Prudence and Gertrude who had looked after me so much during my stay, and tried to find Ireen who should have a couple of items ready for me. My activities continued non-stop until we left for the bus stop with Fr. Spencer at just after 9hrs. I found Ireen at the last minute but hadn't time to wait for her to sew on the buttons – I am sure we can cope with that little job!

Despite apparently booking seats on one of the buses we were told they were full and we were directed to another bus company recently established. In the event this turned out fine and before 10 hours we were on our way to Lusaka. A taxi took us to Longacres Lodge. I have a reasonable idea of taxi prices these days and negotiated the price at the top of my limit. The driver tried to get a tip but already had one as far as I was concerned. On the other hand the taxi driver who agreed to take us to the airport gave a very reasonable quote which I was happy to accept. Sometimes people will attempt to extract as much as possible from tourists – and this is understandable, but often they are very reasonable being happy to take a modest profit.

I was happy to help carry bags etc. all the way to our rooms, but having settled I felt only able to collapse and sleep. I suddenly realised that I had developed a nasty cough and cold and all my energy was sapped.

I had arranged to meet with Justina and she joined us for a drink in the afternoon when we discussed the emergence of LIFE Zambia. It was an opportunity for Dilys to meet Justina for the first time. Having eaten at lunchtime we popped across the road for a snack in the evening and I headed for my bed by 8 pm – something virtually unheard of.

We had no great rush in the morning but decided to order the taxi for 9.30 am after our breakfast. When we arrived at the airport we had to wait for an hour before checking in. The lift was out of order so I minded the bags while Dilys and Amy had a drink in the cocktail lounge. I swapped with Dilys for a short while and played a game of pool with Amy.

Unlike my experience last year, we checked in very quickly and passed our time in the departure lounge before getting ready to board. We had not been able to check in on line from Lusaka – though it was now possible to check in for the onward flight from Johannesburg. We took advantage of the Internet Café in the departure lounge. This was fine except they had run out of paper! So often the experience in Zambia is that there is something missing! Like lack of lights in the hotel bathrooms! Fortunately a friend of Amy's had given her some paper. This we straightened and used to print our boarding cards!

I suspect that they have been influence by the British obsession with targets, so at the appointed time we passed the gate ready to board. For the next 40 minutes we waited – many of us sat on the floor - before progressing to another security check, another waiting area and finally being allowed to board the plane.

We had a good flight to Johannesburg, but the hour's queue at the transit desk was not what I wanted and I needed a long sit down to recover. Fortunately there was a small band with African xylophones and drums that entertained us during our wait. We finally moved to some very comfortable seats looking out at the planes, where we enjoyed a final drink in Africa before our flight home.

The flight home overnight was long but uneventful and we arrived to find Baby already at the airport.

It was good to be back, but I was feeling a bit sorry for myself and the tiredness didn't help.

It is only now that I am ready to start accessing the trip. I think in many ways it will mark a new phase – you will have to wait a little for more thoughts.

Best wishes

Chris

Final Days in Monze

2011-09-11T18:47:00.007+01:00

Sunday 11th September

Since retuning to the UK both Dilys and myself have been suffering from a very heavy cold and lack of energy. However, I think that it is time to try and describe the final week in Zambia.

On the Tuesday I had agreed to meet up with some of the students we are supporting through St. Gregory's church – Education Fund. Dilys wasn't well enough to join us, but Amy and myself made our way to the church at Manungu. We were late setting off and I was aware of the amount of walking etc. over the past few days – so we picked up a taxi for the couple of kilometres. In the event we still waited an hour before anyone arrived. Eventually three lads arrived – two were twins. It was a shame more hadn't made it, but it was good to talk to the guys who did arrive. Amy was able to describe some of the differences between schooling in the different countries – but perhaps what struck her most was the fact that students in Zambia seem to have high aspirations and a determination to do well at school which no longer seems present in the UK. It is so important that people have the chance of education in Zambia. The children we are supporting are unlikely to finish their education without our help. For some this could be the one opportunity they get to escape from a life defined by the poverty in which they find themselves. I am hoping that this is an area that we can expand when I return to the UK. Getting to know the students individually is important – it was as a result of such a meeting that we got to know Best, who is now working in Lusaka as a Legal Clerk.

Before we left the church Obert came up to us to say thanks for helping him get a new leg – which he proudly showed us. He was obviously coping with it very well. During the next few days both of his parents visited us to show their gratitude. Obert is obviously a very determined young man and I hope that he is very successful. With his new legs he is hardly disabled at all. However, there will be many who are not so lucky and without support they will not receive the artificial limbs they require. We walked back home after our meeting.

On Wednesday Amy wasn't feeling too good and decided not to join me for the trip to Lukamantano. This is the village on the banks of the lake formed by the Hichanga Dam. About twenty years ago a nun was supporting some people with physical disabilities and suggested that they set up this village to provide mutual support and to enable others to concentrate their efforts. Although I have visited before, I haven't properly met the community. I was therefore looking forward to the meeting and the opportunity to find out more about the place and the people.

Over the years many of the residents had established families and decided to start a community school, with the help of the Catholic Church. This has now become a focus for the community and also takes children from nearby villages. Some progress has been made to obtain government support – though they rely on the church to pay some of the staff costs. They are currently building a staff house, which they hope will enable them to obtain another government teacher – as always, funds are very difficult to obtain.

A number of the people in the village are starting gardens to provide vegetables – boreholes have been provided through the church and, with a solar pump, water is available throughout the village.

The people also make baskets and hats to produce a little income from the occasional visitors. There are of course many needs – including wheelchairs and other mobility aids. I am very glad to have had a chance to meet this community and hope to maintain the connection on future trips. It would be good to try to link the community, and perhaps the school, with groups in the UK.

Neither Amy and Dilys were on top form so I used the opportunity to catch up on the many little projects where I had more work to complete.

By Friday Dilys and Amy had to be better, because we had an appointment at Pemba. Jennipher was also just getting over a bout of malaria. In the morning we went to the children's ward where they had a group of children with HIV/AIDS coming for support and social activities. I left Dilys and Amy, and called to a few places in the hospital and convent where I had a few things to tidy up.

We were a little late setting out and, for the first time I can remember, there were no buses waiting to go Pemba. We waited ½ hour or so and still no progress. There are always buses outside Tooters going in the direction of Lusaka or Livingstone. On this Friday all the buses were heading towards Lusaka. I discovered that there had been riots in Lusaka that had held up all the buses , so I enquired about the cost of a taxi and agreed a realistic price. I think we might have waited another couple of hours, but for the taxi.

We were dropped at the 'lion' and contacted Jennipher. A couple of minutes later the taxi driver returned to say he had met Jennipher and would take us to her. We were met with singing, dancing and obvious joy! It was good for Amy to experience a proper Zambian welcome. I have already described our meeting with Jennipher and her groups. We returned to Monze on a Rosa bus. It seemed appropriate for Amy to experience the usual mode of transport. Though full the bus was not overfull for once!

Fr. Kenan decided to take us up on the pool session tentatively agreed earlier. So Amy and myself joined him for a couple of hours in the evening. Amy has hardly played before and turned in a very creditable performance. It is clear she is a girl of many talents – given the opportunity she will go far.

On Saturday afternoon I took Amy for a walk to the local dam and we sat down for a while in the quiet and peace of this little oasis. Unfortunately the elections meant that a car with loudspeakers brought us abruptly from our meditations! It was however good to introduce Amy to another aspect of my life in Monze. We saw a snake eagle overhead and for once the local children left us in peace – I think they were a bit intimidated by Amy and weren't sure how to react.

Saturday marked my last full day in Monze so for the rest of Saturday I tried to tidy up the very many bits and pieces still unfinished – with some success.

Our visit to Zambia was almost over, but a trip to Livingstone and Victoria Falls was important to conclude Amy's visit – so we made preparations for the trip as well as preparing to leave our accommodation in Monze.

The final episode of the trip will follow soon!

Chris

2011-09-09T15:19:00.006+01:00

Wednesday 7th September

Jumping between different worlds can be difficult. Thinking back a couple of weeks to Monday 22nd August seems a little unreal. We had been very busy for a couple of days and took a chance to have an easy morning. In view of the likely schedule ahead, Amy asked Saki to call around for a while in the morning. It seemed that Saki had come to Monze specially to spend time with Amy. Her mother lives in Lusaka and we understand that she would usually have spent her holiday there. I was able to catch up on a few jobs for which I was very grateful.

Fr. Raphael had offered to take us to Chikuni – a town abut 30 km from Monze, where the first Christian missionary priests settled just over 100 years ago. The Jesuit priests are still very prominent in Chikuni. They have become very active in the fight against HIV/AIDS and have an impressive centre from where their activities are planned. As well as testing and counselling they have a large number of volunteers spread throughout their parish – their area extends 30 – 40 km from the centre. In general the Catholic Church in Zambia is very active in respect of voluntary services – in respect of HIV/AIDS support it provides a lot of very useful services. However, the set-up in Chikuni seems quite exceptional. I remember visiting some years previous and being similarly impressed.

One of the activities being undertaken is the drying of fruit and vegetables using solar driers. There are several at the centre and others being taken to the communities to provide a way of preserving food and generating some income. They are also providing boreholes and solar pumps and teaching conservation farming methods.

Our main reason for visiting Chikuni, however, was to visit the museum and cultural centre. The centre shows some of the cultural history of the Tonga people. I think it is a shame that so often the wisdom of our forefathers is lost. In the UK most of us have lost our connection with the natural world, it's moods and rhythms. At Chikuni they are trying to ensure that at least some of the history and way of life is recorded and preserved. They are trying also to collect and preserve some of the folk tales. It is interesting that in history so many people around the world came to similar conclusions – that we are custodians of a world where we should live in harmony with it's other inhabitants; there are forces much more powerful than ourselves which provide us with sun and rain, and ultimately on which our existence depends; there is also a belief that our life on earth is only a part of our existence and that in some way our ancestors can influence a greater power in our support. I believe in a God who was revealed through Jesus Christ, but also a God who has been revealed through many people and their religions throughout the ages. I think it is important to respect the many beliefs of the peoples throughout the world – we have a lot to learn. The ancient Tonga people and the Jesuit priests have a lot in common and both have something to teach us about how we should live today.

I enjoyed the opportunity to get out of town and travel for a while in the bush – the longer trip in the back of the pick-up was another highlight for Amy. On the way back we visited Fr. Raphael's parents at their farm. Apparently wild animals were common when he grew up, but, as it is not in a protected area, you are less likely to see anything these days. We were unlucky and had to make do with a few birds.

By the end of our trip Dilys was feeling weary – she thought she might be a bit dehydrated. In fact it was to become clear that she was suffering from dysentery or something very similar. For the next couple of days she was virtually confined to the house, thus making considerable inroads into her visit.

Chris

Jennipher

2011-09-05T19:50:00.005+01:00

Monday 5th SeptemberI suppose that I should take up the story two weeks ago and fill in the final 10 days or so in Zambia. However, now that I am once more in the UK, I think it likely that I will follow themes rather than present a strict chronological diary.I returned home feeling weary and suffering from a heavy cold – very much accentuated my my habitual cough. As usual life became very hectic at the end of my visit and I think the frantic activity at the end took its toll.

I am coming around now, but only slowly am I able to assess my visit. Of course the first question I am asked is “was it a successful visit?” This is always difficult to answer – and, feeling ill and worn out, my responses are bound to be biased to the negative.Today I will concentrate on Jennipher. In 2006 I wrote Jennipher's story – which you can read on the HATW website www.hatw.org.uk. A lot has happened since then and an update is well overdue – something I will rectify soon.

Since Jennipher's family has, in many ways, become my family in Zambia, it seemed appropriate for Jennipher to spend some time with my Dilys and Amy when they arrived. It was not initially intended that Jennipher would meet them at the Airport. It seemed sensible to give her a lift to Lusaka to get the bicycle ambulance and, having made that decision, I knew that she should accompany us to the airport. The fact that the equipment fitted in the vehicle was a bonus, which gave her time to re-establish the friendship with Dilys and to get to know Amy.Over recent years Jennipher has developed an expertise in setting up AIDS support groups. She seems to understand the way to encourage people to become interested. She is good at getting the headmen involved and is becoming better at finding addition support locally and from NGOs.

This year HATW paid a formal visit to see what she is doing. An early result of which has been the provision of the bicycle ambulance. The bicycle ambulance has created a lot of interest. I have been keen to inform people in the Catholic Church as well local government, and people are eager to monitor how it works. A week last Friday, Dilys, Amy and myself were invited to Pemba. There we were guests of honour at a meeting where Jennipher had several support groups represented. (One group claimed to be based more than 100 kilometres away and yet was set up by Jennipher!) The bicycle ambulance took pride of place and was demonstrated by Soloman. The headman representing the chief headman said proudly that the bicycle ambulance was not Jennipher's nor was it for Lyaabe Support group, in fact it was not even for all the AIDS support groups, but it was for the whole community. Anyone who needed transport to a clinic or hospital could use it. He also thought it should be used to help transport coffins to the graveyard for burial, because this was also a problem they had. He believed that it would prove to be a valuable asset.In recent years when I have visited Jennipher, she has often brought together people from her support groups so that they can talk directly to me and I can can respond. I believe that this has helped to prevent misunderstandings and to reduce suspicions that Jennipher is involving me purely for her own personal benefit.

At the meeting on Friday there were many requests for support. The group from Hatontila said they had resources but they hadn't the manpower. They had water and the headman was willing to provide land for a garden, but they needed a treadle pump to pump the water from the lake. Other groups said they needed a few goats in order to start income generating schemes. Jennipher responded by saying that if they registered the groups, they would be able to gain access to funds to finance the sort of income generating projects they needed. For me this too showed great progress because Jennipher was seeing ways of spreading the burden of support.The meeting was at least a very different experience for Amy! When we arrived we were greeted by a group who welcomed us in song and led us in a musical procession to Jennipher's house where others took up the welcome with more songs and hymns that spoke of their delight that we had joined them. Amy was too shy to say too much, but reacted with courtesy and respect. She sat next to Dilys and myself on the three piece suite under the shade of a tall tree! Dilys and myself said a few words of introduction and I was asked for comments about what was discussed. I stressed the importance of registration and the value of working together in partnership. I said that if the groups could raise part of the registration fee, that I would agree to find the rest. Dilys finished by saying a little about child bereavement – the topic she had covered in more depth in 2006.

In the final week or so I had a chance to speak again with the manager from DATF. I was able to say a little more about the bicycle ambulance and Jennipher's plans. She agreed to help Jennipher with the process of registration – together with her colleague.Since arriving back home Jennipher has told me that her groups have already raised their portion of the registration fee, so I was able to forward the balance today via Western Union. Hopefully this should move the groups forward another step.It was important that Amy had a chance to visit Livingstone – and Victoria Falls – before she left Zambia. It was also right for her to have a little relaxation, to see the beauty and potential of this country and to have a little time to reflect on what she had seen in Monze. I was offered transport by Fr. Kenan and decided to use the opportunity to give Jennipher a 'different' experience. So on the last Sunday we picked Jennipher from Pemba on our way to Livingstone. I think that it proved to be a wonderful experience for all of us, but perhaps because it was new to both Amy and Jennipher I suspect they had a particularly memorable time.

You will have to wait for the details of the Livingstone trip – and some more photos!I feel that certainly with Jennipher's projects we have made good progress. I was delighted this year that Dilys and particularly Amy was able to join me.

Somehow Amy's presence made a lot of difference. Perhaps it is because she is of a different generation, perhaps the family made everything more friendly an less formal, in any case I was very proud to have my granddaughter share a very special part of my life. It has also strengthened the ties between our families.

Best wishes

Chris

Watch this Space

2011-09-02T15:00:00.000+01:00

Friday 2nd SeptemberI have just returned to Cheltenham. So much happened during the past couple of weeks that I couldn't start to do justice to it now.So please be a little patient and over the next few days and weeks I will bring you up to date with the adventures of the Barrell family in Zambia.Take CareChris

Arrival of the family

2011-08-22T19:49:00.002+01:00

Sunday 21st August

It is hard to think back to last Saturday – I have moved and now have Dilys and Amy staying with me. I am now cooking again and my time is being fully occupied showing the family around and introducing them to some of my friends.

Last Saturday Best visited in the morning. He has been offered a position as a law clerk in Lusaka and has found some accommodation. I suggested that he accepted the offer and tried to raise a little money to help support his family and if possible to save some towards his degree course.

After lunch I set off to find where St. Veronica's would have their celebration. I set off in good time and eventually found a guide to take me to the venue. The service was confirmed for 14 hrs. We settled under an awning designed to shade us from the sun and gradually the numbers grew. It was good to see so many children ready to join our celebration. At 16.30 Fr. Raphael arrived! He had been held up at a church meeting along with Mr. Moonga. There is always something special about having a small mass for a group of friends. Last year we were privileged to have Fr. Celestino staying with us in Cheltenham. Often he would say mass for just Dilys and myself, using our dining table as the altar. This was not such an intimate mass – it was held outside and therefore neighbours were able to observe our celebration.

After mass I called around to Diven's shop for a quick chat before returning home.

On Sunday I was able to enjoy another mass without the distraction of setting up the computer. I decided that I needed a short walk and bit of relaxation, so I headed for the dam. I stopped at the near bank for a change. There were a couple of girls with a 'fishing net' who started throwing a ball close to me. After a while I decided to move on – and so did they! It seemed that, once again, I was to be deprived of my solitude – by this time the girls had been joined by others , including a few young lads. As usual the binoculars and the bird book where of interest. When David came over he had with him some gifts given on his birthday by his children, these he left with me. So I put my hand in my pocket and when I took it out, I had a bandage on my finger with a nail sticking through it. It received the expected gasps from the children, but I quickly took it off - to roars of laughter. The next game was to get one of the young ones to sit on the whoopee cushion – again with the desired reactions! It is clear that children all over find the same things amusing, so I spent the next few minutes trying out the jokes and made sure that I will never get peace again by my dam!!

On the way home I called at Diven's shop. In fact I had carried the jokes with me because I knew that a group of children loiter around the shop when I come to visit. They too were delighted by the jokes – as was Diven!

Monday was my last realistic full working day, so I tried to ensure that at least the database for the projects team was sorted. In fact I found that there were a few discrepancies still in the records – so even at the end of the day there was work still to do. Access to the network via Airtel is still almost impossible. Whether it is the Airtel network, the dongle, the laptop or a combination I really can't tell. What I do know is that it is very frustrating and has wasted a huge amount of my time.

On Monday evening Jennipher arrived. I had not yet had supper so decided to take her to Tooters for a bite. While there, a guy sat himself beside me without any explanation. I asked him eventually why he had joined us. He said he wanted some food. I said something to the effect that I couldn't feed everyone who asked. Jennipher on the other hand offered to share her meal with him. Afterwards I asked if she knew him and she said no, but he was hungry! Being from this area, I think that it is easier for her to be generous in that way. I suspect that if I did give food and money to everyone who asked, I would have bigger queues than I have now and it would encourage people to beg from other musungus (white people). Still I felt somewhat humbled. Jennipher also managed to save some chicken for her friend Lilian who was providing a 'bed' for the night.

Fr. Kenan confirmed that all was set for the trip to Lusaka the following morning.

Jennipher joined us for breakfast a little after 7 hrs on the Tuesday. I had attended the 6.30 am mass. I had a lot to be thankful for and there was still a bit of travelling where a blessing or two wouldn't go amiss.

Our trip to Lusaka went well and we arrived soon after 10.30. On the way to Disacare I received a text from Dilys suggesting that the plane would be delayed. So we took our time to examine the bicycle ambulance and the wheelchair that I was to purchase. Fr. Kenan decided that he could fit all the equipment in the back of the pick-up, so, after a quick test drive, it was loaded and securely fastened in the back of the pick-up and we headed for the airport.

In the event the plane was only 10 – 15 minutes later than scheduled and we were still having a drink when we saw it land. A few years ago it was possible to sit out on a terrace close to the runway, but unfortunately – no doubt due to fears that we might bring down an aircraft with a few bottles of coke! - this is no longer allowed. Still from our vantage point in the “cocktail lounge” we were able to see Dilys and Amy come off the plane and walk across the tarmac to the arrivals hall.

It was wonderful to give Dilys a hug again after 8 ½ weeks apart. It was a particular joy to see Amy and to be able to welcome her to Zambia – the first of my grandchildren to step onto African soil. A privilege my children have yet to experience.

We broke our trip home at a café where we enjoyed some burgers! It is best that Amy takes a little time to acclimatise. Dilys and Amy already had a shock when they arrived at Johannesburg to find that it was only 3°C! Not the sort of temperature they expected in Africa!

At Kafue Fr. Kenan asked if I wanted to drive – when he said that he preferred if I did, I was happy to take the wheel. I knew that it was tricky to drive through Mazabuka in the dark because of the number of people and bikes (without any lights) that moved along the main road for some kilometres. In the event the light had not completely gone by the time we were clear of the town. We reached Monze a little before 19hrs. Although Dilys and Amy were very tired, having hardly slept for 48hrs, it was late before we turned in.

Needless to say, we didn't arise early on the Wednesday – in fact I can't remember being still in bed quite so late in all my years in Zambia! There was no intention to do a lot, but I introduced Amy to the market and we visited the hospital briefly in the afternoon and stayed for mass at the chapel.

On Thursday we went along to PIZZ school. It seemed that they had hoped to have a session on Skype – though I wasn't aware of this and hadn't tried to organise anything. Some children were having a bit of extra tuition in preparation for next term's grade 7 examinations so we took the opportunity to introduce them to Amy and they had a chance to discuss the differences between their experiences and that of Amy and her friends.

In the afternoon we were invited to visit Best's family. They live on the western edge of Monze, so we had a fair walk through the market and out past the graveyard. I am always struck by the fact that very few graves show details of anyone as old as I am. We were welcomed by Best's aunt and some of the cousins who live with him. They had prepared some nshima and various accompaning vegetable dishes. They also gave us some sump – another maize dish, which Dilys likened to rice pudding – which I suppose would be our nearest equivalent. Amy did well eating some of each dish. Many teenagers would have refused to even try the dishes. Suitably filled we returned to town and Homecraft where we now reside.

Later Saki came around with Mrs. Chiiya – her grandmother – and they took the opportunity to get to know each other a little.

I got together a meal and we settled down to some reading at the end of a busy day.

On Friday Saki had arranged to come around for about 10 hrs. She took Amy back to her house where Amy stayed till about 4 pm. - experiencing yet another nshima meal.

Dilys and I called around at the hospital and dropped off some glasses. Later I picked up a few items from town. I also got the chance to do some more work on the database.

In the evening Reymond called around and I invited Diven to join us for supper and a chat. It was 22 hrs by the time he left and we relaxed before turning in for another late night.

Our schedule is beginning to fill! On Friday morning Fr. Rodgers came around at about 10 hrs. Dilys was particularly pleased to have a chance to talk to him again. In 2006 she discussed the issue of child bereavement. As chaplain to the hospital and in his work with the student nurses and midwives, Fr. Rodgers is involved with a lot of counselling. Dilys in her work as a Social Worker and a pastoral assistant at the church has had a lot of involvement in very similar fields. There is a good understanding between them of the difficult situations people face. People are very complex and, although there are huge differences across the world, many of the issues that trouble us are very similar.

We called around at the Cathedral, where we understood some young people were meeting. There is a Youth Congress for the diocese taking place at the end of this month at Pemba. The young people have songs and sketches to practice. It was clear that the young people were organising themselves and not relying on adult control, as often happens back in the UK. As we arrived they were busy practising one of the songs. We were welcomed into their group and listened for a while to the proceedings of their meeting.

After lunch we headed for Our Lady's church in Manungu. It was a 2 km walk along the Livingstone Road to the south of Monze. Already Amy and Dilys had walked a few kilometres since arriving on Tuesday. I pushed the wheelchair as far as Charles house and we spent a short time in conversation with him. He was delighted to see Amy for the first time and re-acquaint himself with Dilys. He was also pleased to have a wheelchair that could go in the boot of a car and allow him to inspect his projects properly for the first time.

At Our Lady's church we found the choir already practising. They had been told that I wanted to record some of the music so that we would be able to introduce some into the mass back in the UK, so they were ready to oblige. I recorded a number of songs and was promised that the words would be provided. Afterwards we took the opportunity to talk to some of the other groups who were meeting and to listen to the children practising for their Sunday mass. The place was a hive of activity, with most of the beautiful thatched shelters in use.

We had been out for some time and I thought a little relaxation was called for. I directed our small band to Southern Comfort Motel were we had some soft drinks and sat ourselves in front of their large TV screen. This hotel provided my first accommodation in Monze, when I arrived in 2003. Because our guest house wasn't quite ready, the 'boys' were put up here, while the 'girls' stayed at Truckers – an altogether different quality of lodging! The girls certainly didn't have a full English breakfast – not to mention en-suite bedrooms, neither did we after that first night!!

Suitably refreshed we coped with the return journey without any problems! Before picking up the laptop Mrs. Sianga had left at the priests' house I was invited to meet some relatives of a friend I can't place, who had just been to a memorial mass. After entering the bus and greeting those inside, I was asked to give them a blessing. Despite explaining that I wasn't a priest, a blessing was duly given! I bumped into Fr. Joseph and chatted for a while before joining Dilys and Amy back home.

This morning I arrived at church with the laptop. At mass a group of children were making a commitment as part of an organisation called “Action” who help out with the general running of the church. They were invested with their uniforms and welcomed in traditional fashion. At the end of mass Dilys, Amy and myself were asked to come to the front of the church and I said a few words, as did Dilys. This was another important step in the development of the partnership between the communities in Monze and Cheltenham. After mass we eventually made contact with St. Gregory's church and had the opportunity to exchange a few words. We finished the video link with some songs from Our Lady of the Wayside including Bind us Together Lord, in which we were joined by parishioners from St. Gregory's church.

We were then treated to a meal with representatives from the parish – the Small Christian Communities and the parish council. This small celebration was laid on in our honour – again to help grow our burgeoning friendship.

After the meal and a few words from both groups Fr. Raphael gave us a lift to St. Veronica's Small Christian Community. Amy had a chance to join me on the back of the pick-up – a treat that wouldn't be permitted in the UK!. We stayed for an hour or so with the community. I had intended to make it a speedy visit – Amy have been very patient, but it wasn't fair to expect her to sit through lengthy discussions in Chitonga. Unfortunately I found it difficult to find a suitable place at which to excuse ourselves. It was important that the group had a chance to meet Dilys and Amy since they are very much part of my life here in Monze.

It was about 17 hrs when we arrived back home and it had been yet another full day. At least I had no need to cook another meal this evening.

Chris

Sun & Moon

2011-08-20T20:43:00.000+01:00

Friday 12th August

As the sun set in the West the moon was rising in the East. This configuration produces the wonderful full moon here in Zambia. After a few hours the moon will be overhead producing a wonderful and mysterious light – easily bright enough to see your way by, with no clouds to dim its beams.

Another week has gone. It was good on Sunday to leave the laptop behind and to be able to enjoy the mass without distraction. A change in the weather meant that this week people sought the shade rather than looking for warmth from the sun. Could I at last abandon my jumper!!

I received no word from Airtel on Monday and my laptop keeps crashing when I try to use the modem! Reconciliation of the records on the Monze projects database has proved more time- consuming than I would have wished and no one was about to sort out a programme or to work on a variety of my tasks.

I had arranged to visit Charles on Monday afternoon – usually we get together soon after I arrive in Monze, but this year Charles has been busy with meetings and workshops and this is our first opportunity to get together. As usual we discussed politics at first and I put forward some of my prejudices! The maize crop failed this year through a combination of a dry spell in the middle of the rainy season, followed by torrential rain and flooding. Very little was left to harvest. The general view is that, across the country, the harvest overall will be good. What seems to be happening is that conditions vary in relatively small areas, so within a few kilometres the outcomes can be very different. As usual I enjoyed our discussions.

I had to leave a little abruptly because I had agreed to meet Justina at 5pm. Justina has produced a couple of training manuals for the prospective pro-life group “LIFE Zambia”. The steering committee is ready to register the group and establish a bank account. The plan is to launch the organisation next year in about April.

The bishop has returned from Italy, after having heart bypass surgery. The priests from around the diocese were meeting him on the Tuesday and some had come on Monday to stay over. Fr. Kenan mentioned the pool table and claimed that I was the guy to beat – so after supper a few priests, a cousin of Fr. Kenan's and myself adjourned to the pool room. By 2 am, after we had enjoyed a few Mosis and had many enjoyable games, we ran out of tokens and had to call it a day (or perhaps a night!)

On Tuesday I rang Airtel and the manager got back to me to say that my data had been loaded on the Friday evening. The problems I have been having since have prevented me taking.
advantage of the system, but I was happy to accept that they had done their part.

Jennipher called around and I told her the good news about getting money for her to buy a cycle ambulance.

Tuesday afternoon I planned to go out with Edward but in the event he was feeling too tired. Trying to access the Internet meant another late and frustrating night.

I spent Wednesday fighting technology again. I was planning to return to Chisamba on Friday, but was informed that the Saturday meeting had been postponed. In many ways this is a relief. I have very little time left and the trip to Chisamba would take up three days – two of them travelling! However, I won't get another opportunity to visit before I leave and it was important to attend the next committee meeting.
Yesterday I thought I had spent more than enough time on the computer and gave Shatis a ring. He said I was welcome to visit, so after lunch I headed up the 'High Street' to Lwengu school. It is an oasis on the edge of the town. I was interested for a few tips in case I manage to visit Lochinvar with Dilys and Amy. Shatis is very interested in nature and enjoys visiting the local Parks. He showed me the best area to head for in Lochinvar and was hoping to find a better map. He was suffering from a slipped disc or would have escorted us to Lochinvar.

After quite a wide ranging discussion Shatis took me to see the developments at the school. First I remarked on how beautiful it looked and he pointed out the trees that were planted by the students. He has a map showing each tree and the name of the student who planted it alongside. I have often thought how wonderful it would be to plant a tree and watch it grow over many years. In Cheltenham my garden is already over populated with trees and has no room for another – though Dilys tells me one has died – so maybe a replacement is called for.

The talk in town has been about the new swimming pool at the school. As with everything else at the school, the swimming pool is well made, of ample proportions and I am sure will become a star attraction. It is sighted in an area that isn't too far from 'The Holy Family' - which is a centre that provides therapy and aids for those with physical disabilities. Shatis is trying to incorporate features into the school buildings to make it accessible for people with disabilities. So the new buildings incorporate ramps etc. and the pool will also have facilities to enable all people to make full use of it.

I might at last have identified the problem and possibly a solution to my modem problems. So feeling a lot better at lunch time I returned home to find the modem was missing! Sometimes I believe the Lord is trying to send me a message. For my entire time in Zambia the modem has been a major headache and cause me endless distress and wasted huge amounts of my time and energy. It has been stolen and now was lost!! I decided I needed to be prepared to let it go – other things are far more important. Once more I needed to have more faith and leave everything in God's hands.

I hadn't been far, since I knew that I had the modem, so I quickly traced my steps. As I entered the office of the Human Resources Manager, he said he was trying to find my phone number because he had found something he was sure was mine! Sometimes you are just meant to be willing to give something up, often the Lord doesn't impose the agreed sacrifice, but in fact provides wonderful gifts instead. In 1995 I had the courage to decide to leave work, with the idea of working with people with disabilities. I had expected to go without any remuneration,but, having take the decision, I eventually left with an excellent package, which has made possible my new life working here in Africa.

This afternoon I finally reconciled my 30,000 records with the hundred or so spreadsheets that form the basis of my database!

Sometimes interesting topics come up at meal times. Fr. Spencer has recently returned from Preston in the UK and, while there, visited a community in the Lake District where they support those suffering from the addictions of alcohol and drugs. He is wondering about setting up some sort of centre in Monze and asked for my thoughts. I don't feel qualified to advise on what might be appropriate in Zambia, but my experience is that the people who give the best advice are generally those who have been there themselves. To some extent it is only by going through an illness or suffering from a disability, that you can really understand what it is like. My own experience of depression has enabled me to be able to strike a rapport with others suffering from the illness. I know a little of what they are going through and it is clear from the discussions, that we have a good level of understanding. Very often one will say something and it strikes a chord because the other knows exactly what she is saying. I am sure that this is also true for those who have an illness of addiction. These are illnesses and have no easy cure – if in fact they can ever be fully cured.

I am eagerly awaiting the arrival of my family, but for now will once again say goodnight.

Chris

P.S. I realise that another week has passed. I hope to post an update tomorrow explaining the delay!!

Life Giving Encounters

2011-08-12T07:57:00.001+01:00

Saturday 6th August

In Ignatian spirituality discernment is key. Recognising what leads us to God (or to do good) and what leads us away from good (or God) is very important, if we are to lead a fulfilling life. It is suggested that before going to sleep a useful exercise is to examine our day and consider the 'life-giving' experiences that we had. Yesterday, as I prepared for rest after a long day, I was struck by just how contented I was and began to recall numerous encounters throughout the day which were truly life-giving. I also realise that most of them were from interactions with the people around me.

I woke early. At 5 am the bells at the Catholic church rang out to remind the people that there would be mass at 6 am. This was repeated at 5.30 for those, like me, who turned over to sleep a little longer! So just after the second set of bells I woke myself up with a quick wash and shave and headed for mass.

It was last year when I last joined the community here for mass. After mass a few parishioners greeted me “good morning”, “mwauka bwanji” or “mwabuka buti” - there was particular delight when I responded to the Tonga greeting with “kabotu, mwabuka buti”. It makes a huge difference just to be able to respond to a simple greeting – I wish I could do much more - the smiles I received marked the start of a life-giving day. I had a chance to talk to Fr. Dominic after mass. I would very much like him to be involved in the project, but for some reason his support has not been summoned. The original project was started by Fr. Tim under the auspices of the Catholic Church and, in some quarters, the project was thought to have become too closely associated with that body – perhaps some are still concerned about getting the balance right. There is obviously a lot that the church has to offer, so I hope that in time a productive relationship will be developed.

A few minutes after 6hrs, the sun rises above the horizon and by the end of mass its beams beckoned from the open church doors. The air was still crisp and cold after the night and before 7 hrs the sun has little strength.

I returned to the Guest House and packed my backpack. I feel obliged to carry a selection of books, which make my bag particularly heavy. When I am moving around Lusaka, as I was this Friday, it can be a bit of an encumbrance. Walking through town isn't too bad, though after a while I feel the weight, but trying to move in the small buses with the backpack and laptop on my knee can be cumbersome – especially when invariably the person wanting to get off the bus is behind me! Here there are not usually gangways on the buses. People are packed right across the width. So to get out other passengers first have to disembark, or you climb over them trying not to step on too many toes, or fall on top of them. This is tricky in normal circumstances, but with my luggage it is made many times worse!

Some guys from the Guest House, who I think where involved in a government department, offered me a lift. Once I had settle my account, we set off across some fields! To be honest most of the time we were on small dirt roads, but when we got lost a guy escorted us across his field to get back on track! It turned out that a colleague owned a farm in Chisamba and they wanted to view it before moving on. They took a few pictures and we headed back to the tarmac and set off towards Lusaka. I have often been offered lifts by complete strangers. The people of Zambia pride themselves on their friendliness and hospitality - in my experience they live up to that claim.

As we headed for Chisamba turn-off (the junction with the Great North Road) a solitary monkey ran swiftly across the road in front of us. It is a while since I have seen monkeys along this road, but it is always a delight when I do. Its one of those experiences you never get driving around Cheltenham!

I was dropped off at Ten Miles - called because of the distance from Lusaka. Once on the main roads heading for Lusaka, getting buses is never a problem and you rarely wait more than a couple of minutes – as was true in this instance.

I have always found the conductors on the small buses very honest with the fares. They could be tempted to increase the price for a 'white man' but that is rarely the case. The conductor hadn't enough change so charged me 5,000 instead of the official 6 pin! I think he was somewhat surprised when I handed him an extra 1,000 in order to pay the correct fare.

There are numerous bus stations in Lusaka. On the past few occasions I have left at one bus station only to be returned to another across the town. I knew of yet another bus station where I catch the Chelston bus that takes the great East Road, heading towards the airport and passing Lwisha House ( the Jesuit Centre) and Manda Hills which was my next destination. I headed across town and eventually found my bus. The Chelston bus is one of the few that you can happily jump aboard as the first passenger. In this instance the bus was empty, but, by the time I confirmed that I was on the right bus, there were 3 or 4 passengers already on-board and within a couple of minutes it was full and ready to depart. A young man next to me started chatting and we shared a little about what we were doing. Owen is a musician and he told me that he had been involved with some volunteers from Germany who thought Zambians should be proud of their culture. They had helped his group made a CD and hoped to promote it for them. I agreed that often Zambians seem to regard anything from abroad as automatically being better than goods produced within the Country. It is important that the people of Zambia take pride in their culture and recognise the many talents they have.

The traffic in Lusaka has increased in recent years and congestion is a major problem. No ring roads or bypasses have been built to allow through traffic to avoid the city, so the problems are inevitable.
Eventually we escaped the clutches of the city traffic and I reached my destination. After Monday's experience, I was more alert – and, importantly, knew exactly where I was heading. The fact that I stopped to get my bearings earlier in the week made me vulnerable. I therefore strided purposefully to the Airtel Centre, where I asked the girl at the customer services desk for a refund. After a little while she escorted me to the managers office. The time was about 11.30 and I was pleased to arrive before any possible lunch closure.

The manager welcomed me in and assured me that she would sort the problem. I pointed out that I had heard this from many people in Airtel and yet, after more than a month, had made no progress – why should I believe that she would resolve the problem. She assured me that she was different and that it would be sorted. A refund didn't seem to be within her purview. I suggested that I would wait while she demonstrated her ability and she said that was fine by her!

And so I parked myself in her office. After half an hour to three- quarters, with no visible progress, I commented on my poor experience with the Airtel internet product when I was connected. She assured me that progress was being made to upgrade the network and 3G operation was being spread throughout the country. She offered to let me test the new system, which is already present in Lusaka, by lending me a laptop in her office. For the next hour or two – in fact it was two! I was able to catch up on my e-mails and check all the reasonably priced hotels and lodges in Livingstone that were listed on the Internet. Those with prices of $200, $300 and above (per person per night) I ignored! At least I now have a list of possible places to stay at the end of the visit, when Dilys and Amy will be with me. There were comprehensive details of many places together with photos and prices. So my time wasn't wasted and both myself and Yanker (the manager) were more comfortable than we would have been if I just sat glaring at her!!

At lunchtime she offered me a slice of pizza and a drink of squash, which I gratefully accepted. She showed me the e-mails she had sent pointing out that she had now had this customer parked in her office for several hours and I heard her end of a number of conversations trying to escalate the issue. A little after 2 pm she rang her boss and told him the problems she was having – and those I had experienced. She eventually asked him if he would speak to me. He again tried to assure me and said if I gave him an hour or so he expected to have everything fully resolved. He suggested there was no need to stay in Yanker's office! I was wanting to move on (in fact I hoped to be away before noon) and was sure that at 5pm everyone would go and I wouldn't have achieved any more – they weren't going to give me a refund! So having been given Yanker's number and that of her boss, who told me not to go to customer services, but straight to him, if things weren't resolved quickly, I called my sit-in to a halt and left Yanker on good terms. Strange as it may seem, the experience in Yanker's office was one I count among the life-giving moments of the day.

I didn't delay but headed straight for the bus and a return to Lusaka. Time was moving on and I had arranged to meet Justina to discuss Zambia LIFE. I rang and we decided to postpone the meeting until she was next in Monze – this coming Monday. It can be difficult to get back to Monze if it is left too late. However, I was fairly certain that there was a 'big bus' at 19hrs which would act as a long stop (hopefully there would be a seat.) Anyway I decided that if I got back to the city centre reasonably quickly and could find another bus which didn't take two hours to fill, I would chance a trip to Disacare.

In the event I was again brought back to the bus stop I first alighted from when I came from Chisamba earlier in the day. It struck me that perhaps this was a useful alternative for local buses and before traipsing across town, I should see whether there was a bus heading out towards Chilenge, which Harrison had told me was what I should look for. Indeed not only was there, clearly marked, a line of buses heading out to Chilenge but also one to Chelston – so I could have saved myself a walk earlier. Again there was little delay, before I was on my way out of town once more. I asked the guy next to me if he could tell me when I had arrived at my destination. He said that he was alighting before me, but he had a word with the conductor on my behalf. In the event he decided to stay an extra stop so that he could make sure I found Disacare.

After trying to find someone at the office a man came up to me to see if he could help. I explained that a friend had found details of the company on the Internet and that I was very interested in what they were doing. Charles took me to a workshop and showed me the wheelchairs and bicycle ambulance that they made. I was impressed particularly by how substantial the ambulance trailer was. The picture on the Internet doesn't do it justice. Having seen it, I could imagine that it would work well, even on some of the roads in the rural areas of Zambia. The standard wheelchair that is provided is similar in style to those produced in the UK, in that it has two small wheels at the front. The back tyres however are typical bike tyres with plenty of grip and the front wheels are wider, made from solid rubber. I was also told that the bearings were stronger – being the same as used for caterpillar tracks. The frames are welded iron and certainly look very substantial. The chairs fold to enable them to be easily transported in the boot of a car.

Charles told me a little more about some of their products and also about other activities in which they are involved. They have a basketball pitch outside and train people in wheelchair basketball. They are connected with an organisation in the Netherlands and on being given a small donation they invited some local people with disabilities to come and try out wheelchair basketball. As a direct result this group formed themselves into a team and regularly play against the 'Disacare' team. The organisation is committed to help people will disabilities to become self-sufficient and to empower them socially as well as economically.

When I left formal employment I had intended setting up a consultancy where people with disabilities would advise companies on how best to provide facilities for people with the same challenges – particularly wheelchair users. So often these experts are not fully involved in the provision of such facilities and many mistakes are made. I shared this with Charles who told me that I should revive this project when I return to the UK. I often think that I should pursue this task, but seem to be constantly distracted by the work related to my life here in Africa.

Charles showed me a scrap heap of foreign made wheelchairs for which they had no spare parts to repair. They repair what wheelchairs they can and their own are designed to be strong in the first place and to use easily available parts so that repairs are simple.

Charles introduced me to the company director, who showed me the latest invention – a motorbike ambulance which can also be used to carry produce.

I left delighted that I had the opportunity to see the place and the products and particularly pleased to have met Charles.

Once I had been shown where to catch a bus back to town, I jumped aboard and soon was once more in the city centre.

Since it was only a little past 17hrs I decided to try to find a Monze Rosa bus down the Kafue Road. I was fortunate to find one reasonably full. It was also heavily laden with a variety of goods. Bags of maize flour and other commodities are placed along the gangway and then folding chairs come down on top of them. Then every other available space is used to stack luggage of various sorts. Many small scale traders go to Lusaka to pick up goods at cheap wholesale prices. It appears that it is worth the fare to stock up there, rather than buy from a local wholesaler. Often cardboard boxes with a few chickens – their heads sticking out of small holes – are taken on board. I wasn't aware of any livestock on this particular bus.

We soon set off and made good progress to Mazabuka. I decided to close my eyes for a bit and try to meditate. As we came to Mazabuka the conductor joked about me sleeping and said we would soon be in Monze – I retorted something to the effect that he was a fine job and it wouldn't take long. The coductors of these buses are often great characters. Their job is to fill the bus and keep it full throughout the journey. This one had a great sense of humour and had the passengers in hoots of laughter at his banter with the policeman at a check point in Kafue. We dropped someone just after Mazabuka and in doing so it was noticed that we had a flat tyre. So we were going to be in Monze a little later than planned! The tyre changed, we turned around and headed back to Mazabuka to a garage, because the spare had a slow puncture and needed to be fully inflated.

It was about 21.40 when we pulled into Tooters (which fortunately is opposite my house). I picked up a carton of milk on my way in, but was surprised to be locked out! I decided to phone Fr. Kenan who was obviously surprised. It turned out that a visiting priest was using a room in my block and had put down the catch on the yale lock. I had seen a light on but assumed that it was for security.

I made myself a couple of cups of coffee and settled down with John Simpson's Wars of Saddham Hussain, content with the day.

Today by contrast has been uneventful. I did some reading, wrote a few e-mails and sent them over the Internet, together with the blog posting that failed to go on Thursday night.

I strolled down to the dam and was met by my young friends – one of whom took my binoculars and later the bird book. It was clear that I would get no peace at the lake today! They wanted to know why I hadn't come with the ball that they asked for last time. It you want to make some local children happy then a ball would be much appreciated!!

I was surprised to see a man catch a small fish – the first I have ever seen caught at the lake – though they wouldn't just be fishing here for fun! My friend – the gang leader – pointed out the boy whose father had made the catch.

This time I wasn't escorted back home. The sun was beginning to set giving the grass and trees the rich golden brown hue that seems to be a special feature of African sunsets. The sky, that had been unbroken blue all day, glowed gold and orange as day quickly gave way to night.

I was approaching Diven's shop when a young woman asked me why I hadn't been around to see Mr Chaambwa. She said I should visit and then explained that he had moved to a house opposite Diven's shop. I was invited in and spent a few minutes chatting to my old friend Edward – the ex headteacher of Monze Basic School. Last time I saw him he was not at all well in hospital. He says he is recovering and is certainly seemed a lot better than when we last met. I said I would see him in the week - we would get together for a couple of drinks and chat properly.

I made a delayed visit to Diven and arranged for him to get some Finta (milk) in stock, most of which I will buy over the remaining weeks.

It was already dark when I returned home, but the half moon was more than adequate to light my way.

I was alone at supper tonight, though there was enough food for three or four. After my meal – again alone in the lounge - I attempted to change from ZNBC to BBC World but had no luck. I think I was meant to watch the programme which was similar to the very early candid camera. The situations were just very silly and everyone was able to see the funny side – unlike some of the recent programmes which seem to deliberately set out to upset and humiliate people. When I did change to BBC the news wasn't on anyway, so I returned to my home and my blog!

Well that's your lot for now!

Goodnight

Chris

Life at Chisamba

2011-08-06T14:12:00.000+01:00

Thursday 4th August

Yesterday was again cool, with lots of wind and clouds that at times obscured the sun. The wind makes the wind pump blades spin and, though much water is leaking, the tanks are full and even the water in the large reservoir is near the top. The wind-pump pumps the water from a borehole and currently provides all the water for the site. Water comes from high level tanks to the houses, toilets and a number of taps around the site. Water overflows from the tanks into a reservoir which can provide additional water to the gardens and eventually it will be used to top up the ponds during the dry season.

I had a bit of work to do in respect of the diocesan projects database, so I settled myself down to that task in the classroom, while Harrison got on with other work. Trying to make sure my 13,000 records match the spreadsheets from which they were derived can be tricky – when initially they don't! I still have some minor discrepancies.

Some of the students who completed their course last year are busy making garments when the new students are not around. They seem to be specialising in different products. One makes shirts and skirts, another a suit, and another bedsheets and pillow cases. They are all hoping to be able to set up little businesses of their own, in time. For now they are able to use the machines at the centre and earn a little money to help the family finances.

In the afternoon I went through the accounts system again with Harrison. He has now had a bit of experience entering all the details from the receipts. The system enables the manager to control and understand the finances better. It also allows me to comprehend the reality of running the centre from an accounting perspective. This has helped me to see that the centre has an ongoing problem where expenses exceed the regular income. It is as a result of the system that I understand some of the difficulties and can make a strong case for additional short term funding, until some good income generating activities can fill the gap.

I attempted in vain to connect to the Internet with Airtel and 10,000 kwacha in airtime. In fact that is not quite true - I connected, but didn't manage to send or open any mails. I decided that when I go to Lusaka on Friday it is a refund that I want, not Gigabytes of unusable data bundles!

It was a full breakfast this morning with eggs, chips, bread onions and tomato. I missed my chips yesterday and almost asked whether there was a chance of some before I returned to Monze. Seeing that breakfast was almost complete I didn't say anything – but got my wish anyway! At home I am content with some cornflakes – as at the priest's house. But once you are spoilt with something different there is a sudden craving when you return to the 'scene of the crime'! I remember my days working for Eagle Star . If I was working away I would stay in a hotel and take great delight in a full English breakfast or scrambled eggs with bacon and sausages!

I worked with Harrison on the accounts system in the morning – tidying it up and making a few minor changes.

In many ways Chisamba is a rest. I don't have the very numerous little projects going on, or the frequent visits by friends that I have in Monze. I get a chance to relax a little and I am about to finish my P.G. James crime thriller. I might pop into the bar after supper to catch up on the local gossip if I have the stamina!

At lunch time I returned to the Guest House, but was satisfied with some more eggs and some bananas bought at a stall on the roadside. I decided to give the Internet another attempt and to my astonishment had some success, sending a few e-mails, posting my blog and picking up a Facebook message from Amy. I asked whether she would be willing to take part in a web-link with some students if I could set it up. “Yeah sounds good” was the reply, so I better see what I can arrange next week.

The afternoon was again mainly spent with the centre manager thinking about an agenda for the coming committee meeting. The important thing for me is to gradually build up the relationship with Harrison, so that we are comfortable working together on the project. These few days have been useful in starting to build an understanding and trust between us. For the next year we will rely mainly on e-mail contact to develop the partnership – never as easy as with face to face contact.

Harrison lent me a guide book with a number of guest houses and lodges around Livingstone listed. I want to find somewhere nice for Dilys and Amy – I suspect the costs will be high. Ideally I would like something close to the river and the wildlife, but I suspect these will be enormously expensive and run by people from outside the country – so profits will not help the people here in Zambia. We shall see what we find. I need to start planning in detail for their visit, since their time here will be very short.

You never know this might be posted before to long!

Best Wishes

Chris

Back to Chisamba

2011-08-04T13:45:00.000+01:00

Tuesday 2nd August

My jumper has stayed on all of today apart from when I had lunch! I am sure that this is not how it should be in August!!

I am now once again in Chisamba. I have put off the return to Kalyingile in the hope that some additional funds would arrive. The project here, as everywhere, struggles because long term sustainability can only be achieved with outside help and sufficient initial funds to kick start income generating activities. This project is still at the stage where an additional kick start is badly needed. Nevertheless there is some training taking place and the possibility of helping some young people to gain skills that should provide a living for them in future.

The past week or so it has been windy – a feature of July. The windpump is whirring at a magnificent pace and, but for a leak, caused apparently by the lack of a non-return valve, the impressive sysem of tanks and reservoirs would be overflowing and even the ponds wouldn't be able to leak fast enough to use all the water. I delight in the energy that comes so freely from the Lord. I can never quite get over the way a cross wind is capable of happily blowing yachts on their way, though they are travelling in opposite directions. My torch works very well and all I do to kep it charged is to place it on the windowsill during the day. Most of the power in Zambia comes from hydroelectric power obtained by just getting the water to turn a few turbines on it's way downhill. Victoria Falls and the Kariber dam provide huge amounts of electricity – both of course are huge features. The falls one of God's finest and the Dam one of man's biggest – if not greatest – creating one of the largest man made lakes in the world.

On Saturday I eventually met up with Vincent. He is spending some of this week on an ACCESS course so that when we meet again we should move fast! He gave me a bit of homework to do while in Chisamba. I paid a visit to the local dam in the afternoon and this time was left to reflect on my own. The usual birds were about and also a small heron – a Squacco Heron – that I haven't noticed before. In flight its white wings make it look like an egret, however on landing it becomes a brown flecked bird like a small bittern or partridge. Unless you've followed it, you wouldn't believe it was the same bird. I am becoming rather blasé about the pied kingfishers as they circle the lake diving for the small fish – as yet I haven't seen a catch.

On Saturday evening I met Diven and we visited Tooters for a bite to eat and a couple of drinks – Mosi for me and cokes for him! This has become a tradition over the years and I enjoy the company and discussions. We often talk about areas of difference between the very different worlds we inhabit. Diven knows what it is like to have to struggle to survive – quite literally. I am fortunate to have always had food in the house. From first hand experience, Diven enlightens me about some aspects of life in Zambia that I find difficult to comprehend and I am grateful to have someone who is happy to share this with me. In return I can tell him about my world, which again he finds quite difficult to understand.

I was not expecting great things from the attempted video-link on Sunday. I was beginning to think that maybe it was a waste of time and not really wanted by anyone else anyway. I just missed Fr. Joseph who was saying the masses at Our Lady of the Wayside – I hadn't mentioned my plans! I kept telling myself to relax and leave everything in God's hands, but like Peter in last week's gospel after taking a couple of steps forward I quickly sink into the waves. I arrived at the church not long after 9 hrs. On checking the buildings they were are securely locked. Last year, when I was nearing the end of my visit, I noticed a flock of swallows playing around the church building – the only time I have seen them in such abundance. On Sunday a couple of swallows were showing off their acrobatic skills darting around the building where I had hoped to set up the laptop, seeing just how close they could come at great speed, yet always missing me by what seemed like only inches. So I was in trouble with this week's plan to use the web-cam inside the building . I had a quick glance in church but realised that to set it up in church would be too disruptive. However, Sr. Gabriela came out when she saw me. I mentioned my plans and she said she had a key and would open the very room I had in mind. There appeared to be no power, but since Rupiah Banda, the President of Zambia, was due in Monze later I was confident it would not pose a problem!

I set up the kit and left it in the room, Sr. Gabriela even sent George Moonga to see if I was OK with everything and he demonstrated that the round two pin plug could really be made to fit in the square three pin socket.(I had decided that this particular plug had the pins too close together.)

Everyone told me that the weather was bad. This was apparently why everyone was late – even Fr. Joseph arrived at 9hrs to say the children's 8.30 mass. We started late and the 10 am mass didn't finish until 12.30. I left a little early to set up, but needn't have bothered because the internet transmission speed varied between 0.0 kb/s and 0.50 kb/s - viable speeds start at about 10 kb/s UK speeds are 1,000 – 2,000+ kb/s. So for the next 15 minutes we had no connection and I was about to give up. In Cheltenham mass finishes at about 10.45 (11.45 Zambian time) so even with coffee I didn't expect many to be still at St. Gregory's by 12.45!

Then I saw a couple of faces and could here friends from the UK greeting me. I switched my video on and they too could see and speak to us. We had a small group of parishioners who were delighted to talk to people from England. Over a period of nearly two hours the transmission – sometimes only with voice – continued, eventually the parishioners from the 9.30 mass at St. Gregory's left and were eventually replaced by some from the 11.15. Canon Bosco and Fr. Tom came to say hallo after the baptismal party. Eventually the parishioners from Our Lady of the Wayside left for their lunch, but three of the committee members appeared before the end of the session to round it off beautifully.

Ye of little faith! Somehow – despite all the odds we had achieved so much. I couldn't see how we could include parishioners from the 11.15 mass and yet it happened. Because of the busy schedule the priests from Cheltenham were unlikely to be able to join in and yet both took part. In a relationship the difficult bit is breaking the ice on those first meetings – I think the ice melted on Sunday! We can now afford a short break before repeating the exercise.

It was 3pm by the time I arrived home and I was followed in by Jennipher. I had missed lunch so we popped out and bought some bananas, popcorn and roasted peanuts for a snack.

Jennipher had phoned on Friday evening when she was on a bus ready to return to Pemba – there was something she wanted to discuss with me. I was rushing to the chapel so the meeting was delayed to Sunday. A few days before Jennipher had brought a client to the hospital. She was about to give birth. She delivered a baby boy safely and I think she was the one who popped around with Jennipher to see me. There is a short cut to the hospital through the convent making it 2 mins away. Anyway on Friday Jennipher got a message to say the lady had died. On Saturday she was collecting the baby from the hospital. The woman had two older children and the grandmother couldn't manage the baby – she suggested sending it to an orphanage, though there seemed to be some doubt whether one would take the child. Jennipher was not sure what to do. She would bring the child up herself – as she has for Emmanuel and Maggie recently, and Selina and Sandra in years past, but feeding for the first 3 months would be a problem. The choice seems to be cows milk or dried milk – both of which are expensive. I suspect that Jennipher will find a way to increase her family once more.

I dropped the laptop of with a relative of Mrs. Sianga, said hallo to Diven, had a cold shower and Luke arrived for a chat. Another day was coming to a close, but after supper Fr. Kenan said we needed to play the long overdue return pool match.

Armed with a few bottles of Castle (no Mosi available!) we found the pool table – me obviously being disadvantaged from the start. At 22 hrs and three games (and Castles) a piece we played the deciding game. I had the upper hand until Fr. Kenan snookered me on the black with the cushion. A beautiful swerve shot prevented the obvious foul, but resulted in the inevitable in-off and forfeit of the game. So we stand one-all in matches and we await the final showdown!

Monday morning I arose early for the 6.30 mass only to find the church locked! Oh that was what Fr. Kenan meant when he said he could lie in – of course it is a hoiday!! Having got to bed after 1am after spending a long time checking that indeed Airtel have not come up with the goods, I could have done with a little more time in bed myself.

It is never a good idea to be first in a bus in Zambia! It is a worse idea to pay the fare before any other passengers join you!! so at 8am (and 8.30am) thats the position I found myself in. I was not surprised when my bus left the stop at Tooters after 5 minutes and headed towards Lusaka. Even less surprised when it turned around and headed back to Tooters. It repeated this exercise several times, once or twice someone got on – then thought better of it and got off again – they had the sense not to depart with any cash! I was surprised that by 9.30 we were full and on our way having covered a lot of miles up and down Monze High Street scouting for passengers. I was relatively pleased to get to Lusaka by 12.30. Justina couldn't get away so we agreed to meet on Friday and I decided to see if I could find a bus to take me to Manda Hills shooping centre to sort out my modem. I found a nearly full bus so had no delay in heading out onto the Great East Road. This seems to be a very busy route and one of the few were buses fill very quickly at most times of the day. As I disembarked I was surrounded by a few guys apparently trying to get me to get on a bus. I was off my guard and hands started trying to get into my pockets. I pushed them away and sped off when a man told me I had been robbed. They had managed to lift the usb modem from the side pocket in my backpack. Fortunately for me this man had spotted them and retrieved it for me. He told me to be more careful and went on his way. Unfortunately Lusaka seems to have a good number of pickpockets – and of course 'white' people are obvious targets. They weren't to know how much the modem cost me, but in fact it is valuable because of the data bundles that I haven't got!

As I arrived at the Airtel centre where I bought the device the doors were shut. I was told to return tomorrow as they had just closed for the day. There was little to do but to have a subway sub and return to town to pick up my next bus. This too was nearly full – something very rare for Chisamba buses! - and I was soon on the way to Chisamba. A relatively short wait for the taxi to fill and I arrived in Chisamba before 4pm.

My room was waiting for me. They always try to put me in room 1 because it was the first room I stayed in and expressed my satisfaction. Once when it was not available they apologised that it was booked. It was only after a little time that I realised that they were only talking about that room – I had thought the Guest House was fully booked.

Today I met up with Harrison – the new manager at the Centre and we spent most of the day talking about plans and updating the accounts details. Moses the new Centre Chairman popped along after lunch and we talked a little. It was agreed that I should attend the next committee meeting which is planned for August 13th. This is not highly convenient, but I need to make myself available. Tomorrow I must cut out a cooked meal! Three in a day is too much for me! (especialy when two are nshima & ?)

Goodnight

Chris

Listening to stories

2011-07-30T18:16:00.002+01:00

Friday 29th July

Yesterday afternoon I went to PIZZ school. I wanted to try to get some stories from the children. I was particularly interested in finding out how their lives were changed by attending the school. In the event it was difficult to get unrehearsed stories.

We did manage to have a long session with Barby – my daughter – over Skype. I had hoped that Amy would be able to take part, but in the event she was spending the day with her dad and so was not available. The video was OK but unfortunately we had some problems with the sound at the Cheltenham end. It is interesting how we seem to be hitting as many problems with the technology in the UK as here. With voice in one direction and typing in the other we managed some form of conversation.

Some of the children told their stories to Barby. Many of the children said they had lost both parents when they were relatively young. Most had then been looked after by grandparents. When one boy was asked how many children his grandmother was looking after, he told us she looked after 15 children. Joseph told us that he wanted to be a doctor. I asked whether he would be one of the doctors who left the country once qualified and he said he would be a Zambian doctor, he would look after Zambian people. One of the girls was 15 years old and she was in grade 7. If she continued she would complete school at the age of 20. I was struck by how many of the children told us the date on which their parents died. In 2006 Dilys did some work on child bereavement with Mrs. Sianga and others which was very powerful and I understand has been used to develop new ways of supporting thQ orphaned children. Some of the children became quite emotional when they mentioned the loss of their parents. Sometimes it seems too intrusive to ask them to say a little about themselves.

I think everyone appreciated talking to and seeing Barby and my granddaughter Cheyenne. I was glad after all the raised hopes we were at last able to satisfy a few of them. The children are hoping to meet Amy when she comes along and show her some of the local culture.

Jennipher popped around to my home with a client and I took the opportunity to ring the DATF manager to confirm the arrangements for Friday – which fortunately were still on track. Mrs. Chiiya was my next visitor with her daughter – Saki's mum – who also had with her Saki's baby sister, who has just had her first birthday. Apparently Saki, who is about the same age as Amy, is excited at the prospect of introducing Amy to her friends and showing her around Monze.

The Internet is still poor much of the time and I have not yet succeeded in sending Charlie his birthday card for 24th July – sorry Charlie I will keep trying!

Today I met the DATF (District AIDS Task Force) manager and set of for Hatontola together with the manager of the hospital Laboratory who is on the local DATF board. I understood we would take direct route, but in the event we passed through Pemba and could have picked Jennipher and some of her group. We consequently arrived before her. We did get some idea of the distance that she has to travel and thq condition of the roads.

The meeting was well organised by Jennipher. The numbers were down because two funerals were taking place. There was just one headman representing the others – he is a lovely man and invited me to join him for chibantu after the meeting. The DATF manager – I still failed to pick up her name – wanted the community members to talk, as well as Jennipher and the commitee members. Again it seems both a privilege and an intrusion to listen to people who admit that they are HIV+ and they tell of some of their difficulties. The main theme was that they had to go to Monze for drugs which was too costly. As a result many stopped taking the drugs or never got tested, knowing they couldn't afford the transport costs. There were many deaths in the area as a result. There was also a problem with education and stigma which they hoped the new support group would help to address. The laboratory manager said a few words and asked how many present had been tested – not surprisingly the proportion of the group who raised their hands was high – I was glad that I too could raise my hand. It is very important to reduce the stigma attached to testing. When the hospital had a special day for testing, a couple of years ago, it seemed appropriate that I joined the queue. He stresssed how important it was that all the headmen were tested to show by example. Where the headmen are tested for HIV/AIDS most of the community will follow. Apparently in Monze more than 20% of people are currently testing positive.

It is going to such meetings that I realise just what good work Jennipher is doing. The initiative at Hatontola should save many lives. People testified that the ARVs had enabled them, from being dependant to being able to work and support their families. Small amounts of money can make a huge difference. By registering, a group can become eligible for extra support, but it can cost 1 million kwacha (£130) to register. Money for seed, a well or pump, a couple of pigs etc. can help start an income generating project that provides extra food or money for transport to a clinic or hospital. I have for many years hoped to set up a small group in the UK that would raise a small amount each year to support the groups that Jennipher has established – so far it hasn't quite happened. Dilys has one solar radio to bring out for Jenniphers clients, if anyone else would like to donate one it would make a difference to someone here.

I would have liked to be able to wander around the village and enjoy being out in the bush – we were about 10 – 15 km from the tarmac road. There is a nice lake and plenty of birds flitting among the numerous trees, including what I think was a paradise flycatcher which has a very long thin tail. It was a delight to be out of town for a bit. I need to get out more!

After dropping Jennipher and her group representatives at Pemba, I got out at Manungu where I had agreed to take some photos of The Legion of Mary members after their meeting. This group of Catholics is already taking up the challenge to find out more about the Cheltenham group and report on their activities. I hope more will do the same and that eventually we will have a lot of contact between the parishes.

Just time to pop around to the projects office, set up a meeting with Vincent for tomorrow morning and contact Disacare in Lusaka – who make wheelchairs and bicycle ambulances – before attending mass at the chapel!

After mass Sr. Rachael caught me to ask if I really meant that I couldn't take anything else back from the 'orphans project'. I had been in touch with the friends who have been selling the baskets and, although they have taken the ones David brought back, they say their shed is overflowing. People in the UK don't feel rich at the moment and aren't buying! Apparently on receiving the money for the baskets, the ladies went to Lusaka and invested in material to make bags and doormats, knowing that Dilys and Amy were on their way with space in their luggage. (At the time I was hoping that the market was still there.) So please let me know if you would like some nice shoulder bags with traditional African patterns or some mats. I will try to take some photos tomorrow and add them to the blog to give you an idea about what is on offer – network permitting. The money provides a small income for the guardians of orphaned children in Monze to help them provide support. I don't feel rich enough to buy them all myself without any indication that at least some of the money would come back.

Take care,

Chris

Visiting Friends

2011-07-26T16:45:00.001+01:00

Tuesday 26th July

I sometimes wonder how it is that time passes so quickly here and how little gets done!

I spent some time this morning with Sr. Lontia. Sr. Lontia is the co-ordinator / manager of St. Vincent's community school, which was established by the Catholic church in Monze to provide an education for orphaned or otherwise disadvantaged children. She has recently spent some time in Scarborough, England - her first visit outside Africa. Two representatives from Monze were invited to spend a few days visiting 10 schools in the Scarborough area with a view to establishing a link with 10 schools around Monze (one being her school - St. Vincent De Paul). At one point she said that she wanted to make it clear to me that when she was considering a link she wasn't begging! She was not looking for money but for an exchange of ideas – things that would help them improve the lives of their students. She is keen to explore the cultural differences between the partner schools.

It was so refreshing to hear this! I have tried to explain this concept to many both in England and here, and many people just don't seem to understand what I am talking about.

Two representatives from Scarborough visited Monze. Sr. Lontia arranged to meet at 8.00am one day but because of various factors didn't arrive until 8.30am by which time those from England were in a state of considerable agitation. In England of course if you are to meet at 8 am you will be there ready at 7.55am. This is something I am used to here and you often lose an hour or two in a day because of such things. However, as Sr. Lontia commented, the obsession with time and filling every minute makes life in the UK very stressful – here people smile much more and can stop to enjoy life.

There is a school blog, but Sr. Lontia wasn't sure that it was working properly. So I decided to have a quick look. The Zamtel network is much better this year, but we decided to call it a day after about 45 minutes, having just about logged in! Sending a few e-mails and a blog can easily take me 2 – 3 hours if the service is OK! So on reflection it is perhaps a marvel that I manage to do anything here.

On Sunday after mass we made an attempt to link the churches in Monze and Cheltenham over the Internet. There were a few hitches! Firstly my message about the time mass was likely to finish here did not get through, so many parishioners at St. Gregory's had given up by the time we connected. We had a problem with voicemail being activated instead of a live session and the network speed at this end was poor. However, despite all of this, some of the parishioners at each end were able to talk to each other and we saw a few pictures at each end. We live in different worlds and there is a danger that the financially poor are ever put at a greater disadvantage. In the West people assume fast broadband speeds are universal and design the systems accordingly. The impatient and efficient mindset can find it difficult to cope with anything less than perfect. So it can be easy to decide that the session where often words were not picked up, video was a small series of stills and the line kept dropping during conversation, was not worth repeating. Here it was a revelation that people here could talk to others across the world – the first time for many. The technology appeared revolutionary and ground breaking, rather than primitive and poor. I hope that we will get many opportunities to try this type of link. Some days it won't work at all, but now and then we will be able to see each other and maybe begin to learn about each others world. If we in the West have the patience and give it the time maybe we will learn to smile again!

I had lunch back at the priest's house and immediately headed for Simon and the 'section meeting'. Simon told me that they had a number of deaths in the past week and most of St. Veronica's members would be attending funerals. It was therefore unlikely tht the community would meet. He was about to eat, so I was invited to join them in a meal of nshima and cabbage. Though I had just eaten, I was pleased to take a little with them. The cabbage was cooked with tomatoes and onions and flavoured with powdered garlic. This isn't a combination I would have thought of, but it worked very well and I helped myself to n extra portion.

The meeting didn't take place so I returned home where I rested, read and caught up with one or to things.

Yesterday Best called around at about 9 hrs to take me to his home on the western edge of Monze. I visited another friend's house some years back. At that time there was space between the town and the one or two houses on the western fringe. Now the town has expanded literally into best's back garden. The council has taken some of their land and will sell the plots to people wning to build houses. Land tenure is a problem in Zambia. Traditionally the local chiefs and headmen have allocated land to local people for them to build their homes. It is rare that people have any evidence - such as title deeds – to prove they own the land. So even after very many years of occupation people can find that the land they thought was theirs can be given away.

Best's parents both died some time ago and he lived with his grandmother. He nyow lives with his aunt and some cousins. The main source of income for the family is brewing beer from maize. Best is the only one in the family who has managed to complete his schooling. If he cannot get support to enable him to take a degree course in law, he will probably get a job with the Ministry of Justice at the beginning of next year and try to raise a bit of money before attempting to complete his studies in a couple of years.

For the second day running I was treated to a meal with friends. As when I ate with Raymond, the women of the house prepared the food but didn't join us to eat it. This might seem sexist to us in England, but it is a tradition that is currently in place and has to be respected. I am often surprised to find the most senior police officers here are often women! I ate a bowl of sump with Best. The sump was flavoured with pounded groundnuts – again a very pleasant dish.

I returned to my computer and databases in the afternoon, but was glad that I spent a bit of time outside my house in good company.

I failed to see either Vincent or Sr. Barbara from the projects office, so I rang both in the afternoon. I will have to use my time very wisely when I eventually get to see Vincent! Sr. Barbara confirmed that she had booked me into a bungalow in the grounds of Homecraft for when Dilys and Amy join me in three weeks.

This evening Luke has invited me to his house, so I don't expect to need supper with the priests this evening. Sr. Lontia mentioned one day in England visiting one of the teacher's homes. They were given some tea and biscuits. On returning to their guest house they were told they were too late for supper and had to pick something up from the supermarket. We can learn a lot about hospitality from the people here in Zambia. I know there are still places in England where visitors won't be allowed to go without having a meal, but it is getting much rarer. Unfortunately our sense of community seems to be giving way to a more self-centred culture.

I suppose that I will soon once more enter the battle with technology here in Monze and try to post this blog. If I can I will add some pictures – the previous ones I took were deleted because I needed to reformat the memory card!

Best wishes

Chris

P.S. The picture shows the garden kept by the children at St. Vincents. Last year they sold tomatoes so that the children could have a meal at school each day - for come their only meal.

What Earthquake?

2011-07-23T22:07:00.002+01:00

Friday 22nd July

Almost another week has flown by since the last posting. My only excuse is that I continue to be frustrated by computers and internet access. Despite numerous different attempts, and many promises, to get Airtel to provide the product I bought three weeks ago, I am no further forward. If I was in Lusaka I would have demanded a refund and bought an MTN modem instead!

I have got access to the Internet through the borrowed PIZZ laptop, but that computer has a non-functioning letter e! This can be rather annoying when you are trying to type anything substantial. Of course I can type here and transfer to the other machine to send, which is what I will do tonight. However there are issues around viruses etc. etc.!

Though time is passing progress seems to be very slow. In fact I am trying to work out just what I have been doing over the past few days!

I decided to spend this week and next in Monze. Here, the school term ends next week and there are things I want to do before it finishes. For much of this week I hoped I would be able to establish a webcam link between PIZZ and Whitecross schools. Having sorted the laptop here, it was a case of co-ordinating with the UK. In the event we cut things very tight and only had yesterday as an opportunity to try the system. Unfortunately the security controls in the UK prevented them from using Skype, and there wasn't time to resolve the issue. After many false alarms, I had the staff and children prepared for the session yesterday, only once again to let them down. I couldn't just go without doing something, so I showed them the laptop and used the webcam to capture them on it. I talked a bit about what we were hoping to do and explained a little about the technology. I hope that next week we can do something – though it is too late to link with Whitecross.

The talk here is about the forthcoming elections. No date has been set, but the current term runs at the beginning of October. It is generally believed that the elections will be very close, despite the incumbent government using all its powers to gain the advantage. Emotions are running high but we hope that the elections will be fair and peaceful.

As well as working on the Diocesan projects database, I am looking at the personnel database, with a view to reviving it for the new Human Resources Manager (though he now has a more complicated title!). The hospital also wants me to sort out ant-virus software. Each year I think I will get away from computers and databases, but inevitably I spend much of my time fighting with both!

Jennipher has been around a few times in recent days. She brought a patient to the hospital who was due to give birth. Unfortunately the child was delivered dead. She is a widow with three children and apparently has been busy trying to collect grass to re-thatch her house. Jennipher thinks she has been overdoing things. Soloman is currently ensuring that the children have some food and Jennipher is keen to keep the client from her house, because she is sure that otherwise she won't get the rest she needs to recover.

I saw Ireen earlier this week and she gave me the shirts that she has made – one for me and the other for Kris. As usual they are well made. This time Ireen has a guy working with her. I think that this is in part because family commitments have prevented her working full-time.

I continue to meet old friends. Captain pulled up in his car yesterday and said hallo. Captain was in charge of the block-making when I first came out in 2003. I spent some time working with the lads – mixing the sand and cement that would go into the moulds. By working in this way Hands Around the World volunteers get a chance to know local people and share some of their different life experiences. I occasionally meet some of the guys around Monze. Mike, who worked at Nampeyo, now the Moonlite guest house, where we stayed on our first visit, said hallo the other day. For a number of years after that first visit, Mike was working in a market in Lusaka. He returned a couple of years back and last year was working in a new bar in Monze. I am not sure what he is currently doing – but he was looking well. Mike's brother Chris has a shop in Monze market which I usually frequent to buy groceries. This time he is getting very little trade from me as my food is still being provided by the parish.

A group within the Catholic church – the Charismatic movement – decided to take a cross from the north of Zambia – by the Tanzanian border to the south at Livingstone. This was a symbolic gesture to encourage prayer for peaceful and fair elections and to pray for the right leadership to help the people of this country. On Wednesday evening the cross arrived in Monze and prayers were said almost continually during the Thursday (incidentally the day of the earthquake!!)– with people from all over the Diocese attending. For me the charismatic movement is too emotional and seems to concentrate too much on physical healing, but for many it is a valuable support for their faith. On Thursday evening I attended their mass, which was held outside. I wished I had put my jumper on, but I enjoyed the mass.

After I showed the children the laptop yesterday the headmaster asked me why I was always seen walking! He thought I should be provided with a small car to move around town. Most people think I am rich and probably think that the charity that 'sponsors' me pays me a salary. In fact, like most small charities, HATW struggles to survive and in fact looks to its volunteers to be a source of income, rather than an expenditure. My bank balance is evidence to the fact that being involved in projects in Zambia is a very expensive business – but it is also tremendously life-giving and fulfilling. I would not want to drive around Monze. You don't get to know people when you pass by in a car. In the book I am reading by John Simpson on Saddam Hussein, he comments on the towns redesigned by Saddam. He says that they are devoid of the culture and the history of the area, but adds that they are the sort of towns you want to see as you pass in your convoy at 60 mph. It is only at walking pace that you have a chance to take in the reality of a place. You don't get a chance for a bit of light hearted banter, or the greetings if you are passing by car. So often people come up to me and start talking. Like the guy who got off his bike and walked with me to the dam a few days back. We share thoughts about a variety of topics – sometimes politics, sometimes views on why Zambia is not prosperous, or maybe just comments on the weather. It is this interaction which for me is key to my life here in Monze. In many ways this is as important as the specific projects and certainly more important than the games with the computers.

I have almost all my meals with the priests at the priests house. Some are resident and others just visitors. It is interesting to get to know them as people, relaxing and discussing a range of topics over meals – mostly in English! It is strange not catering for myself. Even the cleaning and washing is done for me. In many ways I like to be independent, but I am coping OK – especially now I have a lounge and tea and coffee making facilities. I seem to have been alone in this block now for a while - though people have come to have meetings in the lounge which, as yet, haven't quite materialised. There is also apparently a short cut through my shower, and the offices that are also part of the block have access – though it isn't normally used!

I am still wearing my jumper in the mornings and evenings – yesterday has been the only really warm day since I arrived. I don't remember experiencing such cool weather in Zambia before. When August arrives I would expect the temperatures to rise a few degrees.

I was talking to Jennipher yesterday about water. She says she is now struggling because she has to go a long way to fetch water. Up to about a year ago she had mains water. Then apparently the water authority had a problem with the local supply, and ever since it has been off! The water she gets now is not clean. Yesterday she had been given some chlorine to allow her and some of her clients to treat the water. Her vegetable garden – which also supplied some of her support group members is barren and the banana trees are suffering – though Soloman puts some water on them each week. (there is a bunch of bananas waiting for when Dilys and Amy arrive) Promises to sort out her well have so far failed to materialise. I remember people moaning about our water problems a few years back in Cheltenham. They couldn't understand why I considered it to be no more than a minor irritation. Jennipher, and so many other people in Zambia, really know what it means to have a problem with water.

I am very fortunate at the priests house. The water is from a borehole and is pure – it also flows almost all of the time. I have a trickle of water from the shower, but with patience I can have a good wash. The electricity has been pretty reliable, with only the odd hour when power has vanished. I took advantage of one such break to gaze at the wonderful starlit sky. The Milky Way is very clear at such times – so many stars in just one of millions of galaxies. The Southern Cross is also prominent at this time and always fills me with joy when I see it.

There is plenty going on around me. The nearby bars play their music till about 2 am then there is a break of a couple of hours before people start getting ready for the new day, sometimes at 5 am the local mosque calls its worshippers to prayer. Fortunately I can sleep through almost anything!

Oh I nearly forgot – we had an earthquake yesterday. Well, so everyone tells me! Jennipher rang to ask if I felt it, but I didn't understand what she was talking about. Apparently everything shook for some time – some claim as long as five minutes. I don't understand how I didn't notice it. People came out of buildings and things looked as if they would fall of the shelves. Yet I was totally oblivious sitting in my lounge, probably playing with the computer!

Well time has gone and again I will have a late night.

Saturday 23rd July

I had some success today, having managed a Skype session with John for at least half an hour. Our church in Cheltenham has set up an internet connection in the parish hall so that we can have live links. I hope that this will just be the first, with perhaps future links with India or Jerusalem taking place in future. The sound was fine, but outside the webcam couldn't cope with the brightness. I will have a bit of work to do tomorrow morning to find somewhere a little shaded. After the morning, when I couldn't log on to my blog, I was very pleased. I hope that tomorrow, when we try to connect Our Lady of the Wayside and St. Gregory's churches we will also be successful.

My appointment to work with Vincent on the projects database didn't materialise. I have grave doubts now that we will make enough progress this time for the system to be used while I am away. The security guard welcomed me and, on the way out, said that I needed to be around to tell them how things are where I come from. I thought that summed it up nicely – of course I also need them to tell me how things are here.

Diven came around and I tried to connect with the Internet with very limited success. Best also popped along to invite me to the family home. I always feel privileged when people invite me to their homes, and perhaps share a simple meal. Luke and Diven also want me to visit their homes during the next week.

I took a brief stroll around the market after lunch. I am missing my interaction with the marketeers! Since I am not cooking at the moment, I am also not shopping. Some of the shopkeepers and stallholders are perhaps missing my custom, but I also realised that I am missing the regular trips to buy vegetables, which gave me an opportunity to chat with some of them.

After my Skype link I went for a walk. I headed out to the East of town and did a small loop returning along the main road. It was good to get out for a short while and listen to the quiet! It is wonderful when the wind rustling the long grass is the loudest sound. I never strayed beyond sight of the main road and the houses, but the peace was refreshing, calming and yet strangely invigorating.

I had a 'shower' when I returned – I explained earlier that the water is a small trickle. After struggling as usual with the dribble of water I thought it could no harm to see what happened if I forced the water up to the shower head – knowing that if there wasn't enough pressure to force if from the tap at the bottom, nothing would emerge from the shower. To my astonishment a reasonable shower emerged! This reminded me of a fateful trip I made to Wales in my youth. I kept a diary and recorded all the silly things I did during the few days we were away. There was a catalogue of events culminating in buckling a wheel on my bike, locking the bikes together and losing my wallet with my money and the key to the padlock! There were other fairly trivial instances were a little more thought would have been wise and prevented potential disasters – fortunately most we got away with! I might easily have continued for the next few weeks trying to wash under the trickle of water when I can enjoy a decent shower – even if it only produces cold water!

The choir were practising in the room next to my shower, so I was fully entertained!

Best wishes

Chris

I have moved - though not far.

2011-07-14T16:18:00.000+01:00

Saturday 9th July

If I had almost unlimited Internet access – as I should have – I would send this today. However you need to be patient for the time being.

Today I finished my thriller. Fortunately, like most, though not all, authors, Mary Higgins Clark makes sure there is a happy ending!

I took a walk to the small nearby dam and was treated to some real spectacles. On the way a roller was perched on the power cable – a very beautiful bird with deep blues, lilac and red, a forked tail and very acrobatic flight. I managed to find a spot close to the water's edge, but before settling a large snake eagle flew directly above me with what I assume was a small snake hanging from its mouth. A mixture of various types of swallows, swifts and saw-wings flew over the lake. A couple of pied kingfishers flew past and then one perched on a stone only a few feet away. A truly beautiful black and white bird with a massive beak when seen up close. Cattle egrets, African Jacanas and crowned lapwing were also present. There was a bit of a commotion when some pied crows disturbed the lapwings and then turned on the snake eagle which had returned. The eagle then settled on a nearby tree and allowed me to study it quite closely through my binoculars - quite a treat. I wondered whether it had a nest though the was no evidence that it was feeding any young.

This evening I sneaked a look at BBC World which made a change from ZNBC extolling the virtues of Rupiah Banda - the current president.

Wednesday 13th July

For the past few days I have worn a jumper during the day – something I can never remember from previous years when I have visited at this time. I have known cool evenings and nights, but usually during the day it is comfortable wearing just a shirt. The forecast is for it to be a little warmer tomorrow so maybe I will be able to abandon my jumper until I return to the UK!

My Sunday was largely spent at church and with the Small Christian Community. I realise that I am now a longer serving member of the Community, than some of the local people. It was good to meet up again and receive the usual warm welcome. Simon who was the chairman is working away in neighbouring villages – despite being in his 70s. This causes me a bit of a dilemma since his is one of the very few houses I can consistently find. (having said that I did get myself rather lost on Sunday!) Anyway I found his wife, eventually, and, with the help of others, found out where the meeting was taking place.

I continue to fight the technology. The project computer is still dead, because, try as I might, I can't produce a copy of Ubuntu or other Linux based software. Airtel Internet, as far as can make out, is still effectively unusable and I haven't received my data bundle yet. So the link up between schools here and the UK hasn't taken place and the count down to the holidays is gathering pace.

I continue to be greeted by lots of friends and acquaintances I have made over the years - and fail to recognise most! Each day several people come up to me and say that they would like to have a word. Almost everyone here has a problem to survive and I am very aware that they have problems that fortunately I don't have myself. I try to listen to their issues sensitively and would love to solve all of their problems, but I have very limited resources. I will give you examples of some of the issues raised. Two ladies I know, who work as cooks/cleaners, told me that just about earn enough to provide food for themselves and their children. They want to build a small house. They would mould the bricks themselves, but could afford iron sheets for the roof. I think they would rent out the house to pay off a loan and then move in. Their children cannot afford to attend secondary school because of the fees. Even if I had the money, I wouldn't give it as a loan because the reality is that more often than not, because these people have nothing spare, repayment of the loan becomes virtually impossible. For me I never assume that a loan will be repaid – so if I help it is by way of a gift. I remember once being shocked by someone repaying loan – but I only remember it happening once. I think I told them to use it to buy their child a much needed pair of shoes. Another friend says that his families home is in desperate need of refurbishment. (he has invited me to visit the families house on Sunday – an invitation I will accept). Again he has an idea of buying and selling goods to fund the work and wants a loan. Another acquaintance wants a bike and another fees to go to college! These are just a few examples from the past two or three days – I would have no difficulty in making good use of almost endless amounts of money just with the people I know. It is natural for people to use the opportunity to try to sort out one or two of their problems, but, as it is, my money is spent as soon as I get it. Occasionally there are someone comes to me with a particular need that I can satisfy from some donations given to me before I came - but on the whole people go away disappointed.

On Monday I spent much of the time chasing around hoping to sort the computer . I used the meeting with Mrs. Sianga to sort out one or two things, instead of connecting with Whitecross school in the UK – much to the disappointment of teachers and students – not to mention Mrs. Sianga and myself.

I am now used to joining the priests for meals in the dining room. Once or twice I have tried to eat nshima with a knife and fork – mainly because I find eating rice with the hands not so easy. However it has just confirmed my belief that there is only one way to eat nshima and that is with your hands. It is only with your hands that you can properly scoop up some relish (vegetables and meat with gravy) using the nshima as a spoon!. The texture of the nshima also changes when moulded by the hand and I find it a much more pleasant taste. The discussions with the priests discussions are wide ranging, with a lot of good natured banter and joking going on. The number of priests varies from day to day, often with additional visitors – priests and others.

Jennipher took me to see the local AIDS co-ordinating body DATF – I can't remember what the initials stand for! Jennipher certainly stands her ground, and showed her knowledge of the procedures – sometimes superior to that of the manager. Although there was some dispute as to whether Jennipher's group comes under her jurisdiction, the manager agreed to visit and see for herself how the group functioned. Jennipher is keen that she visits another support group she is in the process of setting up, but, like me, the manager (another name I haven't remembered!) is concerned about giving people false expectations. She was keen that I went out as well, so we will probably go together. I think this might be a useful contact to develop. Maybe she will be able to help Jennipher get more local support.

I have started discussions with the Diocesan Projects Team. There is quite a lot of extra work to do on their database. Vincent can only spare Saturdays to work with me – which might not be sufficient. Still I will have to see what can be done in the limited time. At least there is decent internet access (satellite) at the Projects office, so there is a good possibility of keeping in touch when I am in the UK. However the temptation to revert to spreadsheets will be great!

I can see myself struggling to cope with the work and with working Saturdays, I should try to find a few breaks during the week. However with already less than 5 weeks left before Dilys and Amy arrive, time is ticking. I am aware that there is more work for me to do at the hospital and I need to spend some time at Chisamba!

I moved house yesterday. I am still within the parish complex – just a courtyard and a few dogs away from the main priests house. The dogs can make a lot of noise – a couple of Alsations and a big black beast!! They enjoy chasing the cat – one Alsation got stuck under the kitchen cupboard a couple of days ago. On another day the cat was apparently taunting them behind a window and one of them launched itself at her, smashing the window pane and bringing down the curtains! They jump up at me as a pack, but so far I have come away unscathed!!

I bought myself some tea and coffee and a kettle, so I can get my regular caffeine fixes and entertain my guests! I also have my own small lounge which is very useful for that purpose.

Once again it is past my bedtime. I am hoping to wake tomorrow once more to bright warm sunshine and the African winter will soon be a thing of the past.

Cheers

Chris

Technical Problems

2011-07-09T13:47:00.000+01:00

Saturday 9th July

Already nearly a week has past since my last blog. Yesterday I had expected to tell you that I had made great progress with the technology and could keep you up to date on a regular basis from now on! Oh that life was so easy!

My friend Yunus lost his battle for life on Tuesday. Despite all the best care he could be given in a hospital in England, his system didn't seem able to fight any longer and the machines keeping him alive were finally switched off.

I first met Yunus about 18 years ago when we took him with his friend Danny on a trip to Lourdes. He was cheerful and had a wonderful heart. He was very sensitive and could be a great comfort to those suffering pain – emotional as well as physical. He enjoyed anything that was lively and full of excitement. Many years ago he told me of some of his dreams – he wanted to ride a Harley Davidson (a powerful two wheeler, not a three wheeler or one of the slower models). His cerebral palsy made this ambition a big challenge, which unfortunately he was never able to fulfil. He wanted to teach cookery and fancied himself as a TV chef. His ambition to do a skydive was one that he did achieve and we have the pictures and video to prove it! He did the skydive in style, riding to the plane on the back of a Harley and diving out of the plane wearing his Harley Davison leather jacket, that he wore proudly ever since. He appeared several times on Central TV in connection with the jump and always managed to steal the show. When asked on landing “what next” he managed to say very clearly “bungee jump” - unfortunately that is another ambition he failed to bring to fruition. He had a great love for animals – though he did suggest to me the chicks at Leonard Cheshire would be tasty for lunch! He had a memorable trip to Florida where he swam with dolphins. But it was with people that he found his greatest joy – particularly children. He was devoted to his godchild Abigail, met some of my grandchildren and always asked how they were getting along. He would have loved to have got married and have his own family. He would have made a very special dad.

All who new Yunus loved him. He will be greatly missed by me and so many. I am sure that at last he has the freedom that he was deprived of during his life and much more. No doubt his great friend Danny will be there to welcome him. God Bless you Yunus.

Tuesday was another holiday “Unity Day”. I was invited to the Gonde celebrations, but wasn't feeling on top form and, after all the busyness of the past couple of weeks, wanted to collapse and do very little. I read and sorted out a few things for the week ahead and generally took life easy.

On Wednesday I passed around the hospital trying to catch the Human Resources Manager/ Admin Manager to determine what work the hospital might have me to do and see whether he could advise me about MTN modems and data bundles!. He was out, but I caught up with Teddy and one or two others. I still hadn't received the 'data bundle' promised by Airtel and paid for when I bought the USB modem. I did buy a little more 'topup' in the meantime and found that the Internet was desperately slow – in fact most of the time no data could be transferred. When it did operate the speeds rarely exceeded 10kb/s. In comparison the slowest broadband in the UK is 2,000 kb/s and it often operates in excess of these speeds. After 4 hours I gave up trying to attach a compressed picture to an e-mail! At these speeds, there are not enough hours in a month to use the 1GB a month 'data bundle' I have bought.

I was told by the Airtel data helpline that the modem had not yet been fully set up and hopefully would be loaded by the end of the day – I am still waiting!! Though at the moment having the data would be of little benefit because of the problems with the service. Such is life here in Zambia!

I picked up the PIZZ project laptop – the one without ee's! - with the intention of acquiring some data bundles to go with it's MTN modem. Ever since buying the modem from the network provider Airtel, people have told me that MTN is better! My experience in previous years is that MTN does work well and so I had reasonable expectations from the system we used previously. However my problem here was that I seemed unable to convert 'talktime' into data. I thought I understood the procedure but it failed to complete on my phone. I have never managed to speak to anyone on the MTN customer services helpline – this year it seems to be no different. Luke informed me that the Accountant at the School of Nursing used an MTN modem. (the Human Resources manager was the only other person I knew used the equipment). Unfortunately he too was not around!

Wednesday passed and, although I was kept very busy walking from here to there, I felt that little progress had been made.

I had agreed to put some notes together in advance of a HATW trustees meeting to take place on Friday. It was also hoped that I could join the meeting via Skype. So the priorities were to write my report and establish decent Internet access. The first wasn't difficult and I spent much of the morning doing this and producing a card for my daughter Helen's birthday – also on Friday. (She starts a series of family birthdays that follow each other every 4 days until 24th July!) The whole of the afternoon, apart from a brief excursion to complain about the Airtel network and find out how Ireen was faring with the shirts, was spent waiting for Noel the Accountant. At 14 hrs he was coming (I found later found out he was in Mazabuka 50 miles away!) and at 16.30 he arrived!! It was however worth the wait. It appears that I was doing everything correctly but for some reason my phone was incapable of sending the correct information. The same process on another phone worked fine. So with this information I prepared to buy lots of talktime.

I decided after a frustrating couple of days I would celebrate by meeting with my friend Diven for a bite and a couple of drinks at Tooters. I enjoy these sessions where we talk about all manner of things. Diven hasn't had the easiest of lives and, since I met him in 2003, he has had numerous 'adventures' that have caused him – and to some extent me – a lot of grief. Once again he hopes to get his life back on track to a good long term future. He has a small shop which seems to be hopeful. He is busy trying to build up his stock and has a dream of buying a small plot of land and building his own house. If he can avoid any further adventures it might be possible.

I knew that Friday would be busy. The Internet café still couldn't provide sufficient talktime but we agreed that they would send me details when it arrived. I had arranged to meet with Mrs. Sianga at 9hrs. Initially I had hoped to pass back the laptop with various bits updated etc. I also expected to have the other laptop set up with Internet access. In the event I was still a long way off with both these aims. There was a lot to talk about and plan in relation to the project. One of the areas that is very important is to find out what a difference this project supported by Hands Around the World is making to the lives of the children. Unless we are achieving this, the buildings and equipment we help to supply are worthless! Mrs. Sianga told me that there are some children that started in the original school at Grade 1 and are now in the final year (Grade 9) in the new school. I am sure they have stories to tell and I hope to have the opportunity to here from them over the coming weeks. I know that the project has changed so many of the children's lives and given them real hope, but it is important for them to be allowed to tell their own stories. It is hard to believe the extreme poverty that many here suffer. One of the children I have come to know came to Mrs. Sianga recently, when she had received a supply of shoes. She had only a limited number and his name wasn't on the list. He came to her office asking for some shoes because his were falling to pieces. (As well as being important to have reasonable shoes for our health, children are embarrassed to go to school if they haven't any shoes). Mrs Sianga felt pity on him and gave him a pair and he jumped for joy. I wonder how many children in the UK would react in that way if they received a pair of school shoes?

It is meeting children every day who have insufficient of the basic needs – food, clothing and shelter – that acts as a constant reminder of the unfairness in our world. The weather at the moment is cold! Maybe not in our experience, but night time temperatures of 4°C or 5°C are very cold when you have no blanket! One of Jennipher's children Mike was complaining that he was unable to sleep because of the cold, and he was in need of a blanket. Mike is currently away at school not far from his home in Pemba. Mike is now OK but there are many that are not so lucky.

On Wednesday clouds appeared again in sky and since then there have been a few wispy clouds about. During the day the temperatures are staying below 20°C, though the sun is still hot!

My next appointment was at 10 hrs at the new school, where they were having sports – soccer and netball. I had asked if I could take some photos of the children in their new sports strips with the new balls. It appeared at first that I wasn't expected, but in fact one of the teachers had things organised. While I waited I received the details about my talk time and decided to try to load my modem. Since this is a process that the school will need to understand for the future I enlisted a teacher (and his phone) to purchase the data bundles. Success at last!! I have a modem loaded with 1GB of data.

I took some photos and headed back home to prepare for my meeting.

I managed to confirm that the MTN network worked very much better than the current Airtel network, and it appeared useable. I was keen to update the anti-virus software. It took about 2 hours but was successfully completed. I did a quick test to check that Skype was working and joined the priests for lunch. Today the table was full. A number of visitors were present because on Saturday several priests are being ordained in Choma (100 km south of Monze), and people from all around the diocese will be attending the ceremony and celebrations. I had been invited but again declined because I have yet to really settle and I have a lot to try to sort out.

I was connected via Skype between about 14.30 and 19 hrs. During that time we mainly used only voice communication. The network is still much slower than in the UK. Trying to have the video and expecting clear voice transmission was too much. I was able to hear most of the proceedings and comment now and again to remind people that I was still around. I think that a better microphone at the far end would have helped pick up the voices of those seated around the long table. Still I was glad that I could take some part in the meeting and could hear the discussion. It was particularly good to hear Mr. Naskar, who is on a visit to the UK from India. He is another inspirational man who manages a project in Sarberia that we support. I had hoped that I would have been able to meet him in the UK but in the event I left a day or two too soon. I was disappointed that I was unable to see him over Skype (I am not sure of the technical problem). He has been staying in the UK with Tess who I know from our church. Tess went out to Sarberia a couple of years ago and, like me, has been affected by the experience. She went out again last year and is very active encouraging ongoing support.

Although the video call was far from a total success I believe it was a useful experience. I intend to pursue the links with the school and church. That situation will be different because these events will focus around the Skype session – yesterday the important event was the meeting in Wales. There wasn't the luxury to check what I was catching or continually stop the meeting to bring me up to speed. If we can say a few words to each other and see a few jerky pictures when the schools and churches link up, it will be very useful. In time the technology here will catch up and such sessions could become commonplace.

I went for supper at 19.30 and found that we had a lot of guests and music playing loudly. Mweemba is a seminarian who has spent the past year in Monze at this parish and at Manungu (Our Lady of the Wayside). He is about to leave to return to the seminary in Lusaka, so a party was organised to celebrate his time here. As well as the usual fare we had a barbecue with chicken, beef and pork. Many of the people I already know. Sr. Gabriella told me about her 37 years in Zambia and how she really loves the people at Our Lady of the Wayside where she works in social pastoral work. It seems that most of the beautiful paintings on the shelters and walls of the buildings were done by herself, with friends who have visited over the years. We discussed the origins of the devotion to Our Lady of the Wayside and both confessed we do not know. If anyone knows please let me know, because Sister Gabriella has also been keen to find out.

The evening continued with dancing – and no one was allowed to sit or stand still! It reminded me of karaoke and Budweisers in Manilla many years ago with a group of Burmese priest and nuns! Finally people spoke of the wonderful experience of having this seminarian in their midst. I thought I had got off lightly until I was asked to say a closing prayer. With so many priests and religious present, I hardly felt qualified but I did my best to formally link the proceedings with the work and hopes of our creator.

It was already late when I returned to my laptop. I had left it running because my anti-virus had detected some problems! I was expecting to find myself with the same difficulties as last year when the computer wouldn't start. At least I now know the solution – unfortunately it requires Ubuntu and the copy I have doesn't function!

Sure enough! I now have only one working laptop – and this one has no effective battery, something I was relying on for Monday!!

I am convinced that technology is one of the solutions to some of the problems faced here, but until the supporting infrastructure is in place it seems that I am destined to have many stressful and frustrating times here in Zambia.

This morning I got up for mass at 6.30 despite the late night, since I couldn't be sure of a later mass knowing that most of the priests were leaving for Choma. (I usually lie in on Saturday and go to the 7 am mass at the hospital chapel!)

I relaxed with my rather macabre thriller and decided that maybe hot showers are available in the morning (I haven't succeeded in the evening since the first day two weeks ago!). I was delighted that the water in the tap was warm, the pressure in the shower was low but it was also warm. However very quickly the pressure fell to zero and, with difficulty, I rinsed most of the shampoo from my hair. Oh well, when I do next have a decent hot shower it will be a very special delight!

Best wishes

Chris

A busy week

2011-07-04T19:48:00.002+01:00

Monday 4th July

A week has passed and I find myself with yet another computer. This one, brought out by David, should stay with me till almost the end of my stay.

So much has happened that perhaps I should just try to keep to the highlights.

On Tuesday morning Harrison, the new manager at Kaliyangile, arrived. We spent some time together during the day and, among other things, I tried to explain the accounting system. Power was intermittent, which limited the amount that I was able to do. Harrison was staying at the guest house so we ate together and had a couple of beers.

A committee meeting was arranged for the Wednesday morning and we were soon joined by David and Jim from Hands Around the World. As always, projects for the poorest struggle to survive. There is no income from the students, so funds need to be found elsewhere. The project was revived last year, but it will take a while for the extra income needed to be generated. I was delighted to see the wind pump busily drawing water, once more, from the borehole.

After the meeting and a tour of the site, we all went to Fringilla for lunch. (Staff, committee members and HATW guys.) I rarely visit such places, which charge similar prices to those we might be used to in the UK, but it was a nice treat. I remember last year going to a Brie at Fringilla organised by the Catholic church. I thought the price was very reasonable and discovered that our event was held in a nearby field! Nevertheless it was a most enjoyable afternoon.

We set off reasonably early on Thursday morning. David have acquired a car and driver from Fr. Tim – who started the project at Chisamba about seven years ago. Our first stop in Lusaka was the Chief Immigration Office. I was surprised to find that they had no difficulty in finding my file – though my work permit has been awaiting collection for six months. I have been granted the 2 year extension that I requested, so next year I need to come out again at the end of the year if I am to gain a further extension.

I was told that the Arcades shopping centre had an MTN office where I was to obtain a USB modem. In the event it was a shopping centre close by that we should have visited. I couldn't remember where the other one was and we had released Morton, our driver, for a few hours.

The sagas with my computers continue! The laptop that David brought out had Windows newly installed. It is a requirement of XP that the software is 'activated'. Here the only practical way is to connect to the Internet. Unfortunately my initial attempts failed because the first Internet café used a system to log in, which required Windows to be running and the second required a wireless connection which I haven't got! In the end I was allowed to connect direct and, somewhat to my surprise, the activation was successful. I am still waiting to use the modem to connect to the internet, but that is another story!! I am still reasonably confident of joining the HATW trustees meeting over Skype on Friday.

We spent the night with Fr. Tim at the parish house in Lusaka and I arose in time to join the morning mass at 6.30.

At breakfast we were joined by two Irish priests who had just celebrated 50 years in the priesthood. They were of the order formerly known as the White Fathers who were the first missionaries to come out to Zambia – I think that was about 150 years ago.

After breakfast it was time to head for Monze. We were running late so we picked up a few items at Shoprite in Mazabuka to serve as our lunch.

After dropping off our bags the next port of call was Pemba where we were meeting with Jennipher. I had reorganised my schedule and gave only a days notice about the changed programme. In addition we left Monze late. Had I thought things through, I would have realised that Jennipher would organise a gathering and that changing the day wouldn't be such a trivial matter. I was very sorry to have disturbed things but in the event we were escorted to her home by a group of ladies who sang a welcome as we followed in the car. There were probably 50 people assembled to meet us including several of the local headmen. The headmen traditionally allocate land and generally look after the villagers, but in recent times many of them have also become desperately poor and have difficulty proving for their own families.

Jennipher had everything very well organised and different people, all affected by HIV/AIDS, told us of their major needs. Children without school uniforms or shoes – one who also mentioned that she had no food – a story that is far too common here. One man told us that he had 8 children and all of them died as a result of AIDS. Those unfortunate enough to have lost a child will understand some of the pain but to lose all of your children must be unbearable. Some outlined their plans for refurbishing a clinic to supply the ARVs (Anti-retroviral drugs needed by people with AIDS) and the idea of a drop in centre to help some children learn and play. Many of the stories are heart rending and the size of the problem is huge. It is easy to feel totally impotent, but we can only do that which is possible. Jennipher has made a huge difference to thousands by setting up support groups and educating people about AIDS. There is no doubt that ARVs are allowing many not only to live longer but also to be able to provide some support for children who otherwise would find themselves orphaned. It was getting dark before we headed back to Monze.

Saturday was another full day. It is Jim's first trip to Zambia and it is important that he sees the projects in which HATW has had an involvement over the years. The first project at the hospital, the refurbishment and extension of the laboratory and pharmacy, took place in 1999. Since then various groups and individuals have spent time working at the hospital constructing buildings or passing on some of their skills to the permanent staff. Walking around the hospital it is clear to see how much difference has been made to the environment within some of the wards and specialist areas. The impact of the skilled volunteers isn't so easy to see, but the affection in which they are remembered tells a lot.

We were passing by the church and Fr. Kenan insisted that we joined the priests for lunch rather than go to a hotel. The hospitality we find in Zambia is exceptional. I am already being provided with accommodation and meals by the church here.

In the afternoon we caught up with Mrs. Sianga and the head teachers to give David and Jim an update on the progress at PIZZ school. The school receives a lot of ongoing support from people associated with HATW. More and more projects which have started with our help are now receiving some long term support. It is relatively easy to obtain donations to put up structures or provide equipment, but unless ongoing support is provided it will be impossible to make the difference we want to the children where we work. With partners like Mrs. Sianga our efforts go a long way. There are now more than 200 children attending her schools and getting a chance that otherwise would be denied them. There are few, if any, of the children who Mrs. Sianga doesn't know individually. She provided support to many of their parents as a community nurse before they died as a result of the AIDS pandemic. If the younger children need a shower before starting lessons this is provided and if they are absent someone is sent to find out what problems they have. The school provides a caring environment and a community for children that are going through a very traumatic childhood.

The examination results in the past year have been very good – despite a lack of resources. Three of the children are now at secondary school – largely sponsored through the project. More would be able to go if funds were available.

HATW past volunteers often keep in touch with the projects and one volunteer recently raised some funds to pay for textbooks, sports shirts and balls. Until this donation perhaps 2 or 3 textbooks would be shared by 30 students. The teachers expect the results to improve now that most students will have a textbook in each of the subjects.

Visiting projects like this make us realise just how worthwhile our efforts can be. Without our support it is hard to see how this project could have survived. With the help of past volunteers and supporters the future looks good.

Mrs. Sianga and her husband joined us for supper and a very full day reached it's conclusion.

I suggested that we made an early start on Sunday, so we left at 8 hrs to return to Mrs. Sianga's first school. Each month she provides some additional food for 240 children in desperate need. Again Mrs. Sianga knows their families and their problems. These children are under-nourished and without this extra food many would die. I couldn't help think how terrible it was that in the world where we currently live, such situations still exist – and this is just a very small glimpse of a huge issue. The children pick up packs weighing about 30lb each and take them back to their homes. Some of the little ones are helped by older siblings. The distribution is carefully organised and some get extra items according to their need. Mrs. Sianga says that only two of the children have died during the past 6 months, which shows the success of the project. However that's two children too many, and also certainly two more than would have died in the UK. It is hard to be confronted with the very harsh realities of live here, it is even more difficult when you know that it needn't be so! The feeding programme is not HATW funded, but receives some money from a small group of Italians. After a visit a couple of them decided to do something, and with some family and friends they are ensuring that 240 children have the extra essential food each month. It is amazing what some people are prepared to do when confronted by the reality of life here.

We headed for the 10 am mass at Our Lady of the Wayside. 14 young children were being baptised so the day was one of extra celebration. This weekend (which finishes at the end of tomorrow! Tuesday) sees the Lwiindi / Gondi ceremony – a ceremony where the traditional culture is celebrated. As yet I haven't attended the ceremony despite promises from people keen to accompany me. The church was far from full, no doubt because some had been lured away by the events elsewhere!

After the mass we were invited to join the baptism group for lunch. The proceedings included some speeches and, after lunch, the children exchanged gifts before the final prayer at about 15.30! David and Jim had to make their apologies after the meal. They had another appointment with Mrs. Sianga to visit some people in the community. It was a similar visit with Mrs. Sianga in 2003 that was probably the most significant event during my first visit. At that time there were no ARVs available and the patients I saw were all dying. To be welcomed into their homes was such a privilege and very humbling.

In my turn I headed towards Bridget's house where there was a large pile of baskets for David to take back to the UK. The baskets are made by guardians of orphaned children under a scheme ran by the hospital. These provide a little income for the families. My contacts – more HATW volunteers – provide a much welcomed outlet for their products.

We retired to a local hostelry for a beer before moving on to a hotel for supper.

There was a lot to discuss over our meal. There is never enough money available to meet the needs of the projects and Hands Around the World also struggles to survive. It is difficult to convince people that organisations such as ours need funds, in order that all the projects around the world are able to continue. It is often only by visiting a place that people begin to understand how great the needs are. The volunteers help fill a gap by providing essential ongoing support. The structures and equipment provide a start, but without the ongoing support provide by the organisation, it's past volunteers and supporters, much could be wasted. So if anyone has a few thousand pounds looking for a home you couldn't do much better than donating it to HATW!

David and Jim left this morning on their journey home. They will relax in Lusaka for a few hours before leaving at midnight for Cardiff (via Harare, Nairobi & Amsterdam!) arriving home about 24 hours later.

Today was the funeral of my Uncle Gerard. He was a lovely man and I would have wished to be present. I decided to sit in the hospital chapel at the time of the UK service and pray for him and all those whose hearts he has touched over the years.

I will see whether I can get an Internet connection in a bit and send this blog.

Chris

Back in Chisamba

2011-06-27T20:55:00.001+01:00

Saturday 25th June
This is a time of year when the sky is deep blue from horizon to horizon. The early mornings and the evenings are cool, but during the day the temperature rises pleasantly into the low twenties.
Yesterday I was touched to receive two gifts. A young boy – one of the very many who greet me with “How are you?” – came after me to give me a guava. The other gift – a couple of incense sticks – was from my Rasta friend Brian. The people here are very generous and like to show their appreciation by sharing what little they have. Sometimes I am invited to join them for a simple meal or they might buy me a small drink. It is important to accept and treasure these gifts. Sometimes I am tempted to say no - thinking that it is me that should be doing the giving. Perhaps if that is so I need to question why I feel uncomfortable. Our parish in Cheltenham has adopted Our Lady of the Wayside church in Monze as the parish project and a couple of weeks ago I was pleased to have a stall at the church fete, selling Zambian goods to help the Cheltenham church’s development fund. It was an occasion when our friends in Zambia could contribute to the needs in Cheltenham. There are gifts far more precious than guavas and incense sticks that I receive daily from the people here in Zambia.
I visited the new PIZZ school yesterday. The building was erected a few years ago with support from Hands Around the World – including a team of ‘amateur builders’. It was an opportunity to speak with some of the teachers at the school. On my last visit I met the teachers and found it to be a useful experience. The school caters for orphaned or otherwise disadvantaged children. These are children who otherwise would not be able to receive education. They cannot afford to pay school fees but are still provided with uniforms and, when funds allow, a little food for breakfast and breaks. I was at least able to thank the teachers for the wonderful work they are doing – even if I cannot provide them with decent salaries or housing allowances.
Monday 27th June
I am now in Chisamba once again. Dilys tells me that she recorded 29°C in Cheltenham yesterday. Here , if anything, it is a bit colder than in Monze (temperatures have probably stayed below 20°C, so we have the unusual situation of England being hotter than Zambia (and significantly so) – but only in the shade! I haven’t seen a cloud for a few days now and the sun is still higher and hotter than it ever is in England. On Saturday I decided to relax a bit. I did some reading and took myself a little into the bush and in the afternoon to the local dam.
The water level in the dam is about as high as I can remember – which is a little surprising since the rain stopped a month or more ago. In the sky above I spotted a brown breasted snake eagle. I am told that snake eagles are good especially around towns because they live almost exclusively on snakes! Which is fine - except that it suggests that there is an ample supply of snakes in the vicinity!

I have only come across a few snakes on my visits to Zambia. On the whole they seem to keep out of the way.
I am now beginning to recognise a few of the local birds from a fleeting glance and spotted a cattle egret, a couple of African jacandas and a pied kingfisher around and above the lake – these are all very typical and common birds in this area. This year I have with me my own copy of ‘Common Birds of Zambia’ bought in England via the Internet, since I couldn’t find a copy in Zambia during the past couple of years.
I went to the early mass on Sunday. This Sunday was the celebration of ‘Corpus Christi’. This is one of the most extraordinary beliefs of the Catholic Church. The claim is that in some way the bread and wine become the body and blood of Jesus (God). To claim that it is possible to meet God in this intimate way every time we receive the Eucharistic is truly fantastic, but it what makes me try to get to daily mass whenever possible.
I thought that I might get away from mass without a mention, but should have known that Fr. Kenan would insist on me standing up while he said a few words about my return to Monze.
I skipped the procession and headed for the Rosa buses. There was only one sitting outside Tooters and it looked disconcertingly empty. It was about 9.30 am and I was told that is was indeed heading for Lusaka and would be leaving at 10 hours. My experience is that going “now, now” means within the next hour. Leaving in half an hour probably translates to sometime today. I therefore decided not to jump on and pay my fare, but to walk the mile to the other Tooters (Golden Pillow) and see whether there was a ‘big bus’ going soon. The big buses (coaches) go to a schedule and don’t wait until they are full. So you can be fairly confident of catching a bus within an hour or so of the scheduled time. As I passed I was called over by Joshua who happened to be driving to Tooters and he offered me a lift.
We were soon speeding on our way listening to Gospel and Pentecostal choirs – which were played together with the videos. We made very good progress until we found a convoy of lorries carrying large earthmoving equipment. However by about 13hrs I was in Lusaka and by 15.30 I made it to Chisamba – a very swift journey as they go here.
Soon after I arrived Justine appeared and greeted me. Justine is the previous manager at Kaliyangile and had made the trip from the Copperbelt to meet me. The Copperbelt is famous for its mines – hence the name. First the British and now the Chinese, through their mining companies, have extracted the ore and made vast profits – unfortunately very little of it remains to provide a better life for the local people.
We were joined by Godfrey for supper – I had fish (Talapia) which was a very rare treat here at Chisamba Guest House.
Today I had egg and chips for breakfast. I was happy to have a few bananas – plus another egg!- for lunch. We had hoped to meet some of the committee members this morning but none were available, so Justine made tracks for home.
A few days before I arrived in Zambia Frederick Chiluba – the second president of Zambia – died suddenly. Today his burial took place. It was also declared a national holiday and people suddenly found themselves with an extra day off. Caren – the tailor at Kaliyangile - said she only heard on Saturday that today would be a holiday.
Power is still not guaranteed here in Zambia. On Saturday power was off in Monze from about 10 hrs until 17 hrs – I am not sure of the reason, but I was told in advance that we not have power for most of the day. In Chisamba ‘load shedding’ is still a regular feature. On both evenings power has been off for a little more than an hour between 18.30 and 20 hrs. Fortunately here a power cut doesn’t phase anyone. The dependable charcoal braziers come out and meals arrive just the same.(my 6 pm supper arrived just before 8 pm. – the choice I was offered was chicken or beef, and there was no chicken (nshima and a vegetable come as standard!!))
I am currently using the project computer. MTN – a local network provider – seem to have changed the way they charge for data transmission. The cost of accessing the Internet in the way we did last year seems to have increased by several times. It should be possible to buy ‘data bundles’ but I have failed so far to purchase any. So you might, or might not get this blog in the next few days.
Best Wishes
Chris

Anothqr day and anothqr computqr.

2011-06-24T13:20:00.000+01:00

Thursday 23rd June

Yesterday I met up with Mrs. Sianga and, among other things, she showed me the computer which I had been warned was not working well! She was right!! The computer took ages to start-up and very quickly slowed to the extent that is was totally unusable – and then it wouldn't shut down – at least in the time I was willing to allow. I took the opportunity to take it away with me. (It wouldn't feel right if I didn't have a broken computer or two in my room.)

Mrs. Sianga employs teachers awaiting appointment to a government school. Unfortunately there are very many of these trained teachers, some who have been waiting several years for their first appointment. However things are about to change and three quarters of the teachers at Mrs. Sianga's PIZZ School have suddenly received appointments.

There are elections coming up in Zambia very shortly.

PIZZ school has benefited from some Hands Around the World related donations, since I was here in December. This has allowed the school to purchase 120 books among other things and is likely to have a positive impact on the exams coming up in October – even if the staffing issues are detrimental.

Everyone is looking forward to Dilys and Amy coming in August. All are keen to arrange something special for Amy, relating to children or young people. I met Mrs. Chiiya this afternoon and she reminded me that her daughter Saki will be at home in August when the schools have their break. Saki is also 15 years old and I am sure will be delighted to show Amy how girls of that age enjoy themselves here, and will introduce her to some of her friends. I remember one time when Saki provided me with drinks and biscuits at their home, when her mother wasn't around – this was perhaps four or more years ago. I was reminded yesterday that children here are expected to do a variety of household chores – including waiting on guests.

I called at the hospital again this morning and met the new Medical Superintendent. I briefly explained what I had been involved in at the hospital and the involvement of Hands Around The World. Not surprisingly the issue of viruses arose! I will return tomorrow to discuss databases with the Human Resources Manager. Why does my life here keep coming back to computer viruses and databases?

Dilys sent me a text to say that Amy's surgery demanded over £200 before they would start giving any injections – so much for a free NHS! I suspect more people will take the risk and not have the injections when going abroad. Apparently the doctor even needs £12 to write a prescription for antimalarials – that's two weeks income for someone here!

Jennipher reminded me that some of her clients want solar radios. This allows them to know the time to take their tablets and also provides some lessons for the children. (Some local stations give school lessons for those unable to attend a school.) If anyone wants to donate a radio, Dilys and Amy should be able to bring a few out with them.

I suspect that if I stay here with the priests I will put on weight! I am currently getting two cooked meals a day and lots of nshima!

Oh yes! I found a rogue file on this laptop and it seems to work OK after deleting it.

Howqver it has anothqr problqm!! The e doqsn't function! I can work around it, but wq use a lot of es – fortunately not as many qs!

With love and prayers

Chris

A very warm welcome

2011-06-22T11:10:00.000+01:00

Wednesday 22nd June

I was dropped off close to the Cathedral where I am currently staying. After I was welcomed and shown to my room, I decided to look more closely at my bag. I found that it had obviously been opened. When I checked inside, my laptop was missing. As far as I can tell, only the laptop itself has gone –even the bag and the adapter have been left.

I have managed to get access to a computer here at the priests’ house so, unlike yesterday, I can prepare my blog ‘offline’.
Enough of my woes! As always, I have been welcomed back to Zambia with open arms. I am currently being looked after very well by Fr. Kenan and the other priests and seminarians here in Monze. Yesterday I wandered around the town meeting many of my friends. At the hospital I only visited one office – that of the Medical Superintendant (formerly Executive Director). The current Superintendant was not present, but I was warmly greeted by Judy. Ian, Sichone, Mr. Longu, Hichali, Sebia, Teddy, Clara, Beatrice & Sr. Rachel were among the many who came to say hallo when they noticed me passing. Luke appeared with Jennipher and we made our way to the hospital tuck shop and sat down for a chat.

This year I remembered to bring out copies of the photos Jennipher took last time. She has had a digital camera for several years, but the cost of processing the pictures and the difficulties in sorting the pictures when you she hasn’t a computer makes it difficult to print the pictures. So each time I come here I take away a copy of the photos and print them in the UK. I therefore had about 200 pictures to pass onto her. I also brought a photobook containing photos of her family taken over the past 6 years. I caught up with the latest happenings. Emmanuel, who is probably about 2 years old now, has not been well and she is concerned about him, the rest of her family are doing OK. She continues to help establish HIV/AIDS support groups and is keen that I visit the latest one.
My friend Kris, back in England, asked me on Sunday if I would get Ireen to make him a shirt. So I wandered into the market and picked up some chitenge material that I hope is suitable. Jennipher was wearing a skirt and top made by Ireen and gave me some of the same material so that I can have a matching shirt. Ireen gave me a very warm welcome as usual and will start work on her ‘commissions’. She was delighted when I told her that Kris insisted on paying UK prices for the shirt. Irene told me that her son had started Secondary school and she had to borrow some of the money. It costs 760,000 kwacha a term (about £100) at the school he attends. She also has a sister who has diabetes and she is worried about being able to treat it. The sister is currently in Monze Hospital and is apparently getting insulin injections. I doubt whether regular insulin would be affordable and the advice here is very varied! For instance, she was persuaded to buy some coffee (at a very high price) because she was told that it was good medicine for diabetes. (There is an added ingredient in it, but I doubt whether that has any significant beneficial effect.) Ireen tells me if she could help her sister and pay for her son’s education she would have no worries!!

I met Diven and we lunched at Tooters. As usual Diven has had a lot of problems in recent months. He had a lot of items stolen from his house and shop while he was away, including his mattress -which during it’s removal caused the door of his house to be destroyed. It is going to be a hard struggle to get back to the position he was in when I left only last December.

This morning the sun is again shining and it is time I took some fresh air.
Chris

Transported back into a different world

2011-06-21T17:02:00.003+01:00

Tuesday 21st June

I awoke this morning to a wonderful bright morning. So familiar and yet so different to the "summer mornings" i experienced only a couple of days ago in England.

A lot has happened in the past couple of days, but for reasons that will become clear I will make this blog very short.

A couple of days before my trip both the TV and car fell to pieces! The TV was declared terminal and needed a rapid replacement. The car was fortunately put back together in time for my trip to Heathrow.

This year I am flying South African Airways. They don't know my arrangement with BA to take as many bags as I wish - at no extra charge!! Perhaps more to the point I didn't seem to be able to take a laptop except as part of my main or hand luggage. I decided to pack it in my case and carefully adjusted the luggage to scrape into the respective allowances - more or less!

I arrived at Heathrow at least three hours before take-off and, having checked in and printed boarding passes, soon found myself settling down to read my novel in the departure lounge.

The plane took off on time and, apart from having no sleep, the journey was good. I watched a South African film about a boy who aspired to be a great footballer. It was a good preparation for Africa. So much reminded me of the world i was about to enter and of which I am now a part.

I was surprised by the long queues in Johannesburg airport to transfer flights. I have another stamp on my already well-stamped passport (still less than a year old.

We flew back over South Africa and Zimbabwe crossing Lake Kariba as we entered Zambia (again!)and landed at about 13 hrs at Lusaka. It is winter here and the temperature was a pleasant 23C.

I managed to get to the back of all the queues at immigration and then caused confusion because I wanted to come in on an employment permit, which I haven't got!! Eventually I was told to collect my bag and return when the Immigration Officer would have consulted her supervisor. I noticed my bag had been tampered with - the locks were no longer properly secured. Eventually - after a further half hour or so - I was allowed into the Country with a form that had to be printed specially before being completed.

Godfrey had been waiting for me at arrivals - buy this time all other passengers were long gone. I rushed out of the airport and went with Godfrey for a coffee and an update!

He then took me to the bus station. The bus was going at 19hrs (it was about 17hrs, but the earlier bus had just left and we were told we could catch it up! Our guide jumped into the bus and we took all the side roads to try to outpace the bus. As we approached the filling station were we were meant to meet we saw it drive away! I boarded eventually and got to Monze at about 19.30, having spent the journey in theological discussion with a fellow passenger.

MUST Go the Cafe is closing - I will continue tomorrow!!!

It's been a difficult few weeks

2011-06-19T12:48:00.002+01:00

Thursday 16th June

It has been frantic here over the past few weeks. What should have been a time spent preparing for the trip - which starts on Sunday! - has been disrupted because of a number of very sick friends and relatives and a number of deaths.

Just over two weeks ago I heard that a good friend of mine Yunus had suddenly been rushed to hospital and was in intensive care. He had a tracheotomy, as yet they haven't been able to remove the tube and his condition has not improved. A day later I heard that a friend of mine, Sr. Elly-Maria, who gave me the courage to leave work early and pointed me in the direction of Hands Around the World, had died. The same day I had a call from an uncle who had been keeping me updated about another sick uncle (my Uncle Gerard). He told me his wife had died. So I attended two funerals within 5 days.

An aunt came over from Ireland and stayed a week, during which time we attended the funeral of my aunt and visited my sick uncle on the Isle of Wight. We did manage a small celebration for my dad who had his 90th birthday on Monday of this week. On Tuesday my Uncle Gerard died.

Uncle Gerard had no children of his own, but went out of his way to keep in touch with all the children of his brothers and sisters. When we were young he visited us every Sunday with bars of chocolate and spent time amusing us. Subsequently he has made sure all our children (and grandchildren) get cards on their birthdays and Christmas – and often presents as well. He was always great fun and will be very sadly missed by so many.

In between I ran a stall at a church fête to publicise the Parish project and sell a few items to support our church in Cheltenham. Naturally I have also kept in contact with a few of my friends in Zambia.

Yesterday the television and the car fell to pieces!! (we now have a new TV and a repaired car – although Dilys was complaining of more noises earlier this evening!). This afternoon I checked that my accommodation was sorted, only to find that they have decided not to let anyone stay in the flat at present, because of problems with a crack in a wall. (I have subsequently been offered a room by Fr Kenan!)

So the signs are good certainly none of my planning is coming to pass!! So I am leaving the UK much in the same way as I left Monze. I look forward to an exciting time!! I am certainly not in control – I hope that the Lord has a plan for me - I suspect that he has!!

With love and prayers

Chris

Always plenty to do

2011-05-24T17:17:00.002+01:00

Tuesday 24th March

It seems like no time at all since I was in Africa. My life these days is very much tied up with the people of Zambia, whether I am physically there or sitting at home in England. I used to think that hardly a week went by without some communication with friends in Monze or other parts of Zambia. Nowadays I seem to be in touch most days.

Today I spoke with Fr. Raphael the priest in charge at Our Lady of the Wayside church in Monze. Our church in Cheltenham St. Gregory's, together with St. Thomas More has adopted Our Lady of the Wayside as their parish project. Although we have been developing links over a number of years the formal parish endorsement gives us an impetus to do a bit more. Some of the youth washed parishioners cars and, together with other donations, £470 has been raised to repair the roof of the church in Monze. (I have experienced the need to be very selective about where you sit in the church during the rainy season!) We have also been busy raising money for education and intend to develop a close dialogue over the next few months.

I have continued to be involved with the Hands Around the World projects in Zambia. In January new students started school at PIZZ in Monze and at the training centre in Chisamba. A Global Giving challenge promoted by Hands Around the World raised more than £2,000 for PIZZ school which will make a huge difference, helping with the provision of extra books and desks and allowing work to be done to enable the school to be used as an examination centre – reducing future costs and making the process easier for the students. We are also putting forward a proposal for Kaliyangile in Chisamba which, if successful, should move the project much closer to long term sustainability.

The rain in Zambia was patchy this year and there are mixed reports in terms of the success of the maize crop. Jennipher has acquired maize seed and fertiliser for her support group from an NGO. (More than £4,000 of products – all she needed was £150 for the transport!) This should enable them to grow some food next year and will make a great difference. Jennipher's health hasn't been too good and she has needed extra medication. She is also concerned that one of her young children is not getting adequate nourishment. She is hoping to improve his diet during the coming months.

Luke is now married and Best is planning to return to Zambia from Namibia next month.

There has been a lot of other things happening, but for now I will leave things in Zambia at that.

This, my 10th trip, will be busy. (Not that I have been twiddling my thumbs on other visits!) I already have a mounting list of tasks to attend to, and this time I will not be totally alone. In August my granddaughter Amy, who will just be 15 years old, will come out to join me with Dilys. Dilys already has a lot of friends in Monze and I am sure that Amy will make very many in the couple of weeks she will be there. (She is certainly likely to be the centre of attraction) David, from HATW, is also coming out at the end of June beginning of July. I will be busy preparing for these visits as well as spending time with them while they are with me. I expect time to pass particularly quickly on this visit.

I will keep you posted occasionally on the preparations during the next few weeks and then have more than enough to report when I arrive back in Africa – volcanoes permitting!!

As always, with love and prayers

Chris

Still very much in touch

2011-02-10T15:07:00.001Z

Monday 7th February

The rains have been inconsistent and patchy this year!

I am not talking about the English winter but the rainy season in Zambia. It struck me yesterday that just because I am in England, it doesn't mean that I am no longer in touch with happenings back in Zambia. In fact I am still very much involved with my friends and their projects.

Less than 8 years ago when I first visited Zambia in 2003, there were no mobile phones and no Internet. Yesterday I spoke to Mrs. Sianga in Monze over the Internet and we could see each other using inexpensive webcams. I usually expect to have contact with Zambia during most weeks – at the moment it seems to be most days and sometimes several times in a day. So perhaps it is appropriate to provide the occasional update through my blog while I am awaiting my next visit.

For two or three weeks after I left Zambia very little rain fell, then there was heavy rain - at least once a day - and it has continued, with the growing risk of major flooding. Some people have already had to be moved out of houses in Lusaka. The crops are surviving at the moment, but there are fears that they will be damaged unless the rains reduce.

PIZZ school opened in January. A number of students passed their grade 9 exams and are hoping to find sponsorship to complete their secondary education. HATW has added PIZZ to the Global Giving website so that additional, much needed, sponsorship can be obtained. (You can find the project at http://www.globalgiving.org/projects/supporting-orphaned-children-in-monze-zambia/ )

Kaliyangile has opened for another term with additional students. Finances continue to be a big problem. The new workshop now has a roof which should ensure that the building doesn't get damaged by the rains. A couple of days ago I received an e-mail with the latest update from the project. Two of the tailoring students have been doing a little business in their own time. Both have young families to support and hope to buy their own machines. These young women have shown great initiative and are very thankful for the opportunity given them by the project, one has now been able to return to school, paying her own fees. It is these individual stories of lives changed that makes it a privilege for me to be involved.

Jennipher rang me a couple of weeks ago from Chipata, which is in the East of Zambia, 550 km from Lusaka. She was attending another family funeral - for one of Soloman's sisters who had been working as a teacher. Soloman has lost many family members over the past few years – including both his mother and grandmother. I cannot imagine how I would cope with such enormous loss.

Thursday 10th February

I returned from Liverpool yesterday evening. I needed to deliver the baskets and bags from the Buntola project. Jim and Jean sell the goods in the UK and recover their costs. For the past couple of years this has enabled us to provide a market for a significant amount of the project's output.

Jim was involved in a HATW project in Monze a few years ago and he lives in Bolton. We met at Crosby and, after a pleasant meal, wandered along the beach to see Antony Gormley's sculpture, “Another Place” on Crosby beach, which comprises 100 larger than life models of a man looking out to sea. We left as the sun was setting and we joined the sculptures gazing out to sea, thinking about distant lands.

I always enjoy an excuse to visit Liverpool. My mother was Liverpudlian and I have a strong attraction to the people who live there. As a young child I spent 6 months in Liverpool when my mother was very ill with rheumatic fever. I lived with my uncle, aunt and cousins in the house where my mother was born. After leaving Jean and Jim I made my way to my cousin Vera's house where I stayed the night.

I have now acquired another laptop so that I can continue to support the projects where I am using ACCESS databases. A few days ago I spoke to Vincent who works for the Monze Diocesan Projects Team. I am developing a database with him. The team are involved with about 60 communities (a total of more than 2,300 households). Information about each household has been collected, including details about income, food and assets – hoes, axes, livestock etc. Moving the data from spreadsheets to a database makes it much easier to analyse the information. So it seems that one in two families have a radio and, on average, each has 8 chickens, the average household monthly income is just over £100 but 11% live on less than £13, the average household size is 7 people and more than a third have 8 or more in the household. The information is used to monitor changes, as support is provided. However raw statics need always to contain a very bold WARNING. It is only people who are aware of the realities that are capable of proper interpretation – the database is no more than a tool for manipulating the data. So for instance, without further analysis, I don't know whether most people have chickens, or whether those with cattle don't have chickens; I don't know whether people exchange crops and livestock and whether these transactions appear as income etc. However for Vincent and the team the database should make it much easier to make sense of the information obtained.

I haven't heard from Diven since I returned to the UK. This worries me because I would have expected a call by now. He usually keeps in touch. I have tried to ring him on several occasions and have failed. Last week I asked Teddy to try and make contact.

I am planning to make a visit to Jack Scarisbrick the Chairman and founder of LIFE (UK) in about 2 weeks time to discuss the proposed establishment of LIFE Zambia.

As you can see, my live here in the UK still revolves, to a large extent, around my activity in Zambia. There is always plenty to do to support my many friends out there.

In many ways I found my last visit to Zambia one of the most difficult. The closer I get to the people the more I realise the difficulties they face and the extent of the support needed. It is clear that I can only do a little myself, there are generous people around me – and it would be unusual for a week to pass without someone giving me money for one project or another – but there will always be a gap, which I find difficult. Somehow it is meant to be that way. We dream of hitting the jackpot and being able to fund everything and save the world – but for some reason we are not meant to join the ranks of the super rich. Maybe we are just looking at the the raw data. We need to look deeper to discover what really makes us super rich!

Best wishes

Chris

An incredible Week

2010-12-23T22:17:00.006Z

Wednesday 22nd December

I arrived back in England yesterday evening!

On Sunday 12th December I wrote “ the Lord is waiting for me to let him get on with his work and stop trying to run his show! So I intend to step back and marvel at what he has in store!”

St. Paul, who was an ancient blogger, wrote what I think is the most beautiful prayer when writing to the Ephesians. He includes these words “ ...To him who by means of his power working in us is able to do so much more than we can ever ask for, or even think of ...” (Ephesians Chapter 3) Well sometimes I think I know what he means – the past week has certainly exceeded all my expectations!

A lot has happened since I posted my last blog on Monday 13th !

Tuesday was my last day in Monze. The power went off at about 9 hrs and wouldn't return until about 19 hrs. I used what battery power was left in the laptop to do some more work on the Diocese projects database.

I wanted to go around the hospital to check whether my photos had arrived from Dilys and to say goodbye to friends. I had checked out Sr. Juunza's laptop and wanted to give her my verdict and also thought I might grab some power from the hospital generator to add a little juice to the laptop. So I arrived at a little before midday with these tasks in mind. Teddy had said he would get someone to drop around some Office disks which I needed to sort out Sr. Juunza's computer - however they hadn't arrived. So I set off with a hospital driver to Teddy's house while the laptop was on charge. When I arrived back an hour later the generator was off and the laptop was 26% charged!

I called on Ireen and I was pleasantly surprised to find that my chitenge clothes were ready. Still having no generator I said a couple of goodbyes and left the laptop with Judy who offered to switch it on and off to take any advantage of available electricity.

After a bite to eat I returned to the hospital. Still no power, so I retrieved my laptops, left Sr. Juunza's at my flat and headed to PIZZ 'Old School' to meet Mrs. Sianga and one of the teachers. She was waiting with her daughter and the teacher soon arrived. The intention was to due some quick training of the accounts system, the Internet and taking and transferring photos. The power was still missing.

Although the laptop had only another 10 – 15 mins connected to the electricity, somehow the battery was now nearly 90% charged. (Still I do seem to be getting a bit of a hand at the moment.) I must have spent nearly 2 hours demonstrating the attributes of the laptop without it shutting down. Having three people involved would, I hope, enable them to help each other use the computer and remember how things were done. I will see how they get on. I was sad that we didn't set up a web link while I was in Monze. I will try to rectify that soon after Christmas.

I call around to Diven's shop which is close to the school and asked him to give me an hour or so to work on the other laptop before meeting me for a final meal and a chat. Fortunately the power came on and I was able to sort Sr. Juunza's laptop back at the flat.

At about 9.30 pm. I returned having had a pleasant meal with Diven (and a couple of Mozi's). I did the final packing and turned in for my final night in Monze.

I was up before 6 hrs on the Wednesday and at 6.10 Simon knocked on my door to deliver a Christmas card from St. Veronica's Small Christian Community. He had called the previous evening only to find me out. I failed to find any hospital transport so was planning to catch the first Mazundu bus – Mazundu is one of the large coach operators and is happy to carry multiple cases!

I walked along to the cathedral with Simon where mass was to be celebrated. After mass, I exchanged the laptop with Sr. Juunza, for the 5 bags that Bridget had sent to make up my consignment for the UK.

As arranged, I phoned the man from Mazundu at 7 am and booked my place on the 9 hrs bus. He asked me how many tickets I needed and told me to be at the Golden Pillow by 8 hrs.

At about 7.45 am Reymond came along to say goodbye and a little after 8 hrs I said my final farewells and, having acquired a taxi, left the flat for the last time this year – well almost!

When I arrived at the Golden Pillow I was told that, despite apparently booking my seat on the first coach, the bus was full and I would have to wait until the 10.30 bus. So I bought a ticket and settled down to wait for the bus. I wanted something from my case, so I reached in my pocket for the key to the small padlock only to find it missing. I had put the padlock keys together on my keyring that also held my UK front door key and the flash drive, that now held all the work I had undertaking since arriving in Zambia 6 weeks earlier. The flash drive was most important – the locks I could break and the front door key could be replaced. I rang Sr. Barbara and she offered to search for the keys in my flat. A few minutes later I was given the welcome news that the keys had been found – though they had no one available to bring them. Fortunately I now had plenty of time and could therefore get a taxi to take me back to the flat where I picked up my keys and returned to wait for the 10.30 bus.

By 11 hrs I was on my way to Lusaka. Justina met me in Lusaka and took me to her house, where I had a snack before getting a bus to Longacres and the Central Immigration Office. Strangely the usual nerves I feel at immigration weren't present. (My experience in 2004 still haunts me!) The process at Immigration is a mystery to me. On enquiring I was told to go into the first office and see Mrs. Birt. She checked and established that my permit was still being processed. She asked if I had sorted something – and because I wasn't aware of having sorted anything, I said no! I was directed to another desk and told to see the immigration officer there.

The practice seems to be to ignore anyone who approaches your desk and to get on with dealing with other clients and miscellaneous files. Then suddenly a hand goes out and you realise that you have been in a very orderly queue and it is your turn to hand over some documents. So I passed over my receipt and passport. The immigration officer seemed human! He joked with others and did some things on a computer. Then a printer jumped into life and another guy handed me a couple of pieces of paper and told me to sign them, while the officer put a few stamps on my passport. I noticed that the forms I was signing had my name on and said something about reporting to immigration within 30 days. I was given one copy of the form I had signed - the other being held at immigration.

I asked whether I should return tomorrow to check on my permit and was told tomorrow it would be too busy, perhaps I could come back next week! I then pointed out that I was leaving the country on Saturday. No problem I was told, I could collect the permit when I returned. They would let me back into the country with the documents. By the way I should guard the form jealously.

Justina told me that I could walk from Longacres to her house and something about robots. So I decided to relax and enjoy winding down before my return home. I asked the way to UTH (University Teaching Hospital) and was directed in the opposite way to that which I expected - I have mentioned my sense of direction – or lack of it! After a while I asked for further clarification and found I was on the correct route – just keep going straight until you get to the robots and turn right. OK no problem, but I wonder what these robots look like! After a couple of miles I had been travelling some distance in the same direction along the road I came to Longacres along – surely this isn't correct! So I asked again – and sure enough, I was directed back in the direction I had just come from. Up to the robots and turn left! I had obviously walked straight past the robots! (observation isn't one of my strong points either!)

A little way back on my return journey I met the policeman who directed me half an hour earlier! “I told you to turn at the robots!” After a mile or so I came across some traffic lights and the penny dropped! I have always said that Zambian English is different to British English and that extra words and different meanings are introduced in a living language, which English is in Zambia – this is an example of Zambian English. Soon after the robots I reached UTH and, having been taken past UTH by Justina earlier, I was able to trace my footsteps back to her house. I was grateful for a decent walk and was back at a suitable hour.

We took the opportunity to discuss the setting up of LIFE Zambia and agreed our respective tasks in moving things forward.

I was given a nice meal of local food and a comfortable bed for the night. In the morning Justina's husband Peter drove me to a point on the Great North Road where I could catch a bus to Chisamba.

At the crossroads I was offered a taxi, but decided to hang on for a full taxi that would cost ¼ of the price. After a few minutes it was full (I your personal space is important to you don't travel by local transport in Zambia! - with four of us in the back of the taxi it was certainly cosy!). In another 20 minutes and I was back at Chisamba Guest house. Justine had just arrived to organise a room. My usual room was taken – he apologised but another was soon found. After catching up on the latest happenings, we contacted Godfrey and arranged to meet at Fringilla for a drink and a chat.

I had a couple of hours spare, so, after saying hallo and goodbye to some of the staff and students at Kaliyangile, I went for a walk and found a quite spot and a tree to have my picnic. The swallows have continued to accompany me, and both at kaliyangile and on my walk they were ever present.

I wanted the opportunity to stress the importance of finding a replacement for Justine – someone who is foremost a competent manager - to complete the process of registering the project and to quickly erect the roof of the workshop. We discussed these issues and others and by the time we left the sun was setting.

I had supper at the Guest House and decided to have a final Mosi or two. Since I met a friend in the bar just as I was leaving, I had to accept a third!

On Thursday I wanted to get off early – or at least just after I had printed my boarding pass for Saturday's flight. Justine offered me a lift at 10 hrs at which time he had re-arranged a trip to take his sister to Lusaka – so I wouldn't need taxis and buses. He had also arranged for the committee to go to the police station to have their fingerprints taken, which gave me some concern in terms of timing!

I had looked more carefully at the form given to me yesterday at immigration. It did say I had to report to immigration within 30 days or I would be classed as a prohibited immigrant. Since in 2004 I was so designated, and told I had to leave the country immediately or I would be thrown into prison, I had decided to return on the Friday to immigration to check the position – and see if any progress had been made on my permit. I told Justine that I needed to be at immigration by 12 hrs – before it shut for lunch.

Thursday 23rd December

I timed out last night. I will try complete my post now!

I was heading for the computer when Justine told me that power was off and the laptop battery wouldn't last long!

I have found that checking in online saves a lot of hassle at the airport – especially if you are the only economy class passenger who believes he is entitled to 3 x 23kg bags! It looked as if I would have a challenge. I decided to try to access the BA website and hope power returned in time to print the boarding pass! I was about to access my booking when the laptop went into standby mode.

Power then returned for a couple of minutes and went off again. This process repeated a couple of times without being able to make progress. I tried once more but the power again went off quickly. I decided to continue and see how far I could go – somehow I got into my booking and managed to choose my seat, check in my bags and save my boarding pass with a flat battery! When the power returned I was able to print my boarding pass – mainly in black and white, as even the borrowed colour cartridge was a bit light on ink.

At about 12.30 Justine returned and at 13 hrs we were on our way to Lusaka. I decided to head straight for Immigration and arrived just after they opened for the afternoon at 14.30. Today the process was to check progress of my employment permit in a register – not surprisingly my permit was still somewhere in the system. I found the immigration officer who assured me that I didn't need to come back or get more stamps and that I wouldn't be locked up!

So, content, I decided to enjoy a stroll back to Justina's to retrieve my bags. I thought that I would take a short cut because there was a road that had to bisect the road I used on Wednesday. It is a mystery to me how you can head in one direction and end up going somewhere entirely different. Well, I seem to be able to achieve this feat without any effort – as was the case on this occasion. I passed many of the embassies and a few other impressive buildings before asking someone to help me out. I had plenty of exercise before I spotted the welcome lights of the robots! It was then easy to find my destination.

While I was enjoying a drink with Justina, Peter popped around and organised a taxi which would take me to Lwisha House.

There is something very comforting about arriving at Lwisha House. It is familiar and I know most of the priests living there. I can relax in the lounge with a paper or magazine and help myself to cups of tea and coffee. I have noticed that the priests always seem very calm and take a great interest in the activities of each other. They share their experiences of the day and include me in their discussions.

The supper is plentiful and is a mixture of Zambian and Western foods. There is also a pudding – such as fruit salad and ice cream - which is something I haven't had for the past few weeks.

I joined the congregation for evening prayer, booked my taxi, had a hot shower and settled for my last night this year in Zambia.

A little after 5 hrs. I arose and sorted myself out for the trip to the airport. The taxi arrived a bit before 6 hrs. so I didn't manage a cup of tea before we left.

The taxi driver was one who was used often by the priests at Lwisha House and had taken me to the airport on previous occasions. Checking in went smoothly and I joined the queue to pass through immigration – or perhaps emigration! On previous occasions there has been a queue of 3 or 4 people at each counter – today there was a queue that stretched all the way around the large room and out to the check-in desks. Cameras had been introduced and machines to take fingerprints. Each person had to have their photo taken and fingerprints from both hands – including the thumbs (taken separately). A guy next to me had a plane to catch in 30 minutes – he was still queuing nearly an hour later! It was over an hour before I reached the departure lounge and found out my plane hadn't yet arrived from the UK. The other passengers had been assured that their planes wouldn't leave without them.

I often think that most of the security measures are designed to convince the travelling public that their safety is being taken care of. In practice I suspect that it causes great inconvenience but has very limited value. (For instance I wonder what systems Zambia has to check the pictures and fingerprints against suitable databases?)

We boarded the plane a couple of hours behind schedule. Apparently snow and ice at Heathrow had delayed the planes departure and hence the reason we were also running late. It was good to be in the air and on my way back home to the family. Dilys had rang a couple of days earlier to say that the snow and ice around Cheltenham was bad and she was worried about driving. I had told her I would make my own way once I arrived at Heathrow – either by coach or train depending what was running.

Next to me on the plane was a lady who was working for an Irish NGO. Although she had only spent three weeks in the Country, she seemed to have a very similar view to me about the role we have in Zambia. We spent some time discussing our experiences and other matters and the time passed swiftly. I had a good view of the desert and kept an eye on our route. It appeared to me that we were heading slightly further west than usual and at one point I thought we must be going up through Spain. We adjusted our direction and again headed due north and I guessed we would just miss Spain passing it to the east!

In the book Landmarks Margaret Silf refers to our inner compass and our journey to god being a heading of true north. The UK is almost due north of Zambia, so for the journey back home the plane continues for very nearly 5,000 miles in a northerly direction with the sun shining, for most of the trip, through my window on my left. Once again I am reminded of my need to try to make the Lord my focus and allow him to lead. Despite my experiences I find it difficult to relax and trust that all will be well.

We were leaving the coast of Africa at about 5 pm GMT (19 hrs Zambian time) when the captain announced that unfortunately Heathrow had been closed. In addition no other UK airport could let us land. Since we couldn't continue to fly for many more hours we would have to land. It had therefore been arranged for us to divert to Barcelona in Spain! So at about 6.30 pm GMT, (19.30 local time or 20.30 Zambian Time!) we landed at Barcelona. We were given sandwiches while we waited for arrangements to be made for the next stage. It was clear that we would not be moving any further that night and that we would probably be taken to a local hotel.

Within an hour we disembarked. Most of us were soon through immigration, but those without EU passports and the appropriate visa, were not allowed to proceed. Unfortunately Britain is still separate from the rest of Europe in many ways, so a visa for the UK doesn't automatically allow you into other European countries – unlike that which allows you into France, Germany, Spain etc. I remember arriving in Nairobi and the flight being cancelled. I was immediately issued a temporary visa. (unfortunately for many of the Zambian passengers the process in Spain is different).

I headed to the baggage reclaim, where I was reunited with my three large suitcases ( I wasn't convinced this was really my greatest desire!). I had picked up a couple of bottles at Lusaka, so my hand luggage was also heavy. We were escorted through the airport and soon found ourselves outside waiting for buses to take us to the hotel. Two buses arrived – which was fine in terms of passenger numbers, but they couldn't cope with the luggage. About an hour later a third bus arrived. (We had by this time been taken to a cafeteria and provided with a snack and hot drink.) We were taken from the airport towards the city centre and deposited in a rather nice 4/5* hotel.

I didn't get the message that a meal was being laid on, so I had a small bottle of wine and a Kit Kat from the minibar before turning in. It had been a long day and I was ready for bed.

The Sunday arrived and I woke myself up with a luxurious shower and tuned into BBC World to get the latest on the weather in London. As I opened the door at 8.15, heading for breakfast, I noticed a sheet of paper that informed me that I would be picked up from the hotel at 8.45. So it was a rushed breakfast, but as I headed to retrieve my bags, I received another message. The schedule had been revised. We would now leave at 1 pm.

I decided to use the opportunity to go to mass and obtained a map from reception. Mass turned out to be at 10 am, so I found the beach and, although is was drizzling a little, had a pleasant walk along the seafront and rang Dilys to tell of the difficulties I was experiencing! During mass I was almost overcome by the closeness of the Lord and the way in which I was being looked after. There were so many possibilities that would have made my trip back a nightmare. In fact I couldn't have dreamt of such an incredible outcome.

After mass the sun was shining brightly and its rays warmed me both physically and mentally. I returned to the hotel and was told it was unlikely that we would be picked up before 4 pm. I headed into the city centre. Gaudé's unfinished cathedral was a 20 – 30 minute walk away so I strode out in that direction. I had never been to Barcelona before, in fact I have only made one visit before to mainland Spain and that was 40 years ago! I didn't think I had time to enter the cathedral – and when I saw the huge queue I wasn't sure I wanted to bother. So I contented myself with viewing it from the outside – which was impressive enough. I had intended to return to the hotel for 12.30 in case they reverted to that time, but decided it was a shame, now that I was very close to the city centre. I found the phone number of the hotel on the map and checked the latest position. We definitely wouldn't leave before 4 pm. so I had some more time to explore. I used the map to pass by the Arc de Triomf, Palau de la Musica and the original cathedral designed by Gaudé. I was delighted to see that there was no charge to enter this cathedral (I am never happy to have to pay to enter a church). Mass was being celebrated so I went to the Blessed Sacrament chapel and said a quite prayer of thanksgiving.

I returned to the hotel via the Parc de la Cuitadella, where there are attractive gardens, small lakes and fountains, and a zoological garden. On arriving at the hotel at 14.30 I was told that I could relax because I wouldn't be going anywhere on Sunday, and would be provided with lunch and supper, and another night in my luxurious room.

After a light meal (they seem to be into nouveau cuisine at the hotel!) I had a brief rest before once again heading for the sea. I love the sea! I am never bored walking along the shore. The sound and sight of the waves crashing onto the sand and the smell of seaweed, I find stimulating. Eventually I settled at the end of a small pier and watched as the sun set over the town. A photographer took a few photos of the sunset and left. I stayed a while longer and was treated to one of the best sunsets I have ever seen. Sunsets in Jamaica, Lanzarote, parts of the UK and of course Africa can be wonderful – so this was really special. The colours were spectacular and the buildings cast dark shapes on the skyline. The beach is bordered by a row of palm trees which again added an interesting texture to the scene.

I could see my hotel from the beach standing nearly 30 stories high and towering above the nearby buildings. I returned to a buffet supper and found the wine! I could get used to this!

There was no further news about our departure and I was settling for at least another day at the hotel! Another day would be good - more would not be ideal!

On Monday morning there was no note under my door, so I was able to enjoy a leisurely breakfast. I enquired at reception and was told we would leave the hotel at 3 pm. This time there was a bit of conviction behind the message. I met one of the BA crew in the lift and she seemed convinced we would fly today. Heathrow was now open once more.

Although I am sure there was much more to explore in the city, I needed a bit of peace and a time for reflection. Although I am used to visiting Zambia now, that doesn't stop me being sensitive to what I see. In fact, because of a better understanding and closer relationship with the people, perhaps the impact is even greater. So as I return I don't want to rush around doing things. The sea was again where I headed. I wanted a longer walk and on Sunday spotted some interesting structures in the distance along the seashore. I decided to head towards these. In fact I went beyond and found a small port and marina where I sat and read a further few pages of Landmarks, while watching the cormorants perched on nearby pillars.

On returning to the hotel the message had not changed. Lunch wasn't provided and I couldn't afford the hotel prices, so I headed out in search of a cafe. I eventually found such an establishment. I enjoyed a seafood salad with a cervesa and finished with a splendid cafe con leché!

We collected our bags and lined up outside the hotel, waiting for the buses to take us to the airport for the 6.25pm. flight. Then at about 3 pm. people starting moving back inside the hotel. A last minute change of plan meant that we would be collected at 16.30 – the plane would still go at 6.15pm and we would be 'fast-tracked' through the airport check-in. To show their commitment we would not return to our rooms, but the bags would be stored in the basement – lunch would now be provided. Well, I had only had a light salad, I guessed what the lunch would be like and suspected that the next decent meal might be some time away, so I took advantage of another free meal!

We retrieved our bags and soon after 16.30 two large coaches arrived and we embarked. We were now a slightly smaller group, as some had made alternative arrangements to get home. I had not seen Wendy, who sat next to me on the way out, since Sunday morning. She was on her way to Edinburgh and was hoping to get a direct flight from Barcelona (Edinburgh was open) – it looks as if she succeeded.

Once we found the correct terminal we piled into the lifts up to departures. I wasn't quite sure where I was and what I was doing so forgot that at airports they have trolleys which make carrying large amounts of luggage easier! I arrived in the queue for check in still struggling with my three cases and backpack! I told myself it was good practice for the other end! While waiting, I did grab a trolley to enable me to rest a little. We were surprised that we were all directed to a single check in desk, but soon four adjacent desks were closed - except for our group - and we moved through rapidly. I had picked up a couple of bottles of Amarula in Lusaka and made sure they were in appropriate transparent bags, sealed and with the invoice within. However I didn't think of moving them to a case – in a way it didn't seem right. The security guard at Barcelona Airport wanted to confiscate them because the date on the receipt wasn't the date of travel! I explained that it would have been if it wasn't for the diversion. (I could have shown him my boarding pass – just issued with the date of the 18th December on it!) In the event his superior told him to let me keep the bottles.

We were issued with our former seats and when we arrived at the departure gate we were immediately loaded into buses and taken to where the plane had parked on Saturday and shown back to our seats. Additional passengers joined us and by about 7.30 pm. we were all aboard and ready for take-off. The captain welcomed us back and told us the good news – we had a definite slot. The bad news was that it was for 10.30 pm! - though it might be brought forward. In the event we were reallocated a slot at 10.20 pm! I had a couple of Gin and Tonics courtesy of BA while I waited for take-off.

It was a relief to get back into the air, and a greater relief when we touched down safely at Heathrow at about 11.30 pm. local time (GMT). We gave the captain a respectful applause in appreciation!

I had some slight concerns about my allowances, but then decided that since I was now on a flight from an EU country the more restrictive allowances now longer applied. As in other recent trips there was no evidence of customs officers as we passed through.

I had been in touch with Dilys and Helen and concluded that attempting a trip to Cheltenham would not be sensible – by the time I arrived there was no option but to spend a night in London.

There were some problems with the baggage reclaim, but I was grateful to be back in the UK and still considered myself very fortunate. So many people were stuck at airports without any beds or food provided. At Heathrow there were vast piles of luggage taken from cancelled flights – how anyone was expected to find their luggage I am not sure. So the fact that it was 2 am before we were out of the airport wasn't too much of a problem. I had spent a couple of days in a beautiful hotel in a lovely city, where many would be delighted to pay handsomely for the privilege.

I was concerned that I wouldn't be allowed on the night bus with all my luggage, but with an effort I carried everything into the bus and stored it for the trip to Hyde Park Corner without being challenged. With help, I got everything off the bus and again was helped to get a taxi to my daughter Helen's house. Jack was a little surprised to see me at 4 am. But greeted me with “Silly Gaggy” - the children today have no respect! In fact it is a wonderful privilege to have such a close relationship with my grandchildren and I would have it no other way. Jack wasn't very well and had woken Helen at 2.30 am, but he still gave me a warm welcome.

After a few hours sleep and some playtime with my grandchildren, I left for Victoria Bus station with a light backpack – the rest of my luggage I decided to leave with Helen. The trip back was remarkably quick and incident free. At 6 pm I was back home in Cheltenham 3 days and 14 hours after leaving Lwisha House for Lusaka airport!

It was good to be at home at last. I was tired, but grateful that I had been looked after so well during the past week. I feel so sorry for the very many who weren't so fortunate.

The weather in the UK has been exceptional. The most snow in 30 years and the coldest December in 100 years. At Heathrow airport 6 inches of snow (15 cm) fell in an hour. In Cheltenham on Sunday, 12 inches fell (30 cm) and temperatures dropped below -10°C. Nearby temperatures dropped to – 19°C. For the past three weeks temperatures have rarely risen above freezing.

I haven't yet done anything towards Christmas – so please accept my apologies and allow me to wish you a wonderful, peaceful, happy and holy Christmas and a New Year filled with joy.

I will post another blog in a week or so reflecting on my trip, but for now I will sign off with my love and prayers, take care,

Chris

P.S. The photos are a selection of African images and not necessarily directly related to the text since the camera wasn't present during much of this posting.

Time Flies and Power goes

2010-12-13T21:13:00.002Z

Monday 13th December

Time is running away. It is 22hrs and time I should be asleep, but since this might be my last opportunity to post a blog in Zambia this year, I will put down a few words.

Now that I have handed over control, life has become more fun! Yesterday before mass I was grabbed by the Secretary of the Parish council at Our Lady of the Wayside church and brought to meet the chairman, who asked me to join them at a meeting after mass.

Before the mass, and during it, I was told just how much the people wanted to express thanks to the people at St. Gregory's church in Cheltenham for providing funds which were used to purchase maize seed for some of the poorest families at the church. The parishioners showed their gratitude with a round of applause.

After mass the maize was distributed to representatives from the 11 small Christian communities – each community provided names of two families each of whom will receive a 5 kg bag of maize seed.

After mass I grabbed a quick bite and headed to St. Veronica's 'section meeting'. We looked at the gospel for next week where the theme of joy was picked up. It was Elizabeth's first meeting with Jesus – though he was still in the womb at the time. I was reminded that God resides in all of us – it is in recognising the God in the other person that brings forth joy. Here in Zambia I have no problem in seeing God in the people I meet – and so often a smile is confirmation.

After mass a few of our group visited two people who were sick. The first was a lady who had been burnt and the second was a man who had lost most of his sight. We stayed for a while, sang and prayed a little with them. People talked about their difficulties and offered their sympathy and support before moving on.

It was well after 5pm before I reached home, having been out almost the whole time since 9.30 am.

I rang Teddy and invited him around. At about 6.15 pm I looked at my phone to find several missed calls and text messages. Teddy had come immediately and gave up when I didn't respond to his knocks or phone calls from outside my door! I must be going deaf!! He came back and collected a few computer bits and pieces that I had brought with me or borrowed from him.

At 7pm I was due for supper at the priest's house. Fr. Kenan and myself were joined by Frs. Raphael and Canasius for nshima and sausages.

After supper I joined Fr. Raphael, and Fr. Kenan drove us to Nzango – a bar just beyond the railway lines. It was a good chance to get to know Fr. Raphael, who is now the main contact for Our Lady of the Wayside.

So, without me doing anything, my concerns about setting up meetings in connection with Our Lady of the Wayside have been more than allayed.

This morning I was busy working on the computer in the development office when the power was switched off. The supply which went off at 10 am was restored at 19 hrs! Apparently this was a planned outage by Zesco , the electricity provider, for maintenance. Tomorrow I am told will be a repeat! I was worried that I wouldn't have time to say goodbye this visit. I think the Lord has just supplied me with a few extra hours!!

I did have the chance to show Mrs Sianga the computer and camera that I will leave with her. I was proudly about to demonstrate how cleverly I had constructed her accounts system, but all we got were error messages. I had earlier tried to bypass small problems with the ACCESS software with disastrous results. I needed to be humbled – and I was!! I would have showed her how to access the Internet, if the connection had stayed for more than a few seconds!

However I am still at peace! Luke called around this morning, Jennipher in the afternoon and Reymond this evening. I met Ireen near the hospital who told me my shirts would be ready by tomorrow lunchtime! I spoke to Michael – a surgeon at the hospital - for the first time this visit. We have passed at church but never quite met to speak before today.

There was still no electricity when I called at the convent to check out Sr. Juunza's computers, so I left with her laptop. A little job to do after this blog!!

Back home I booked a room for Friday night at Lwisha House. In view of the recent influence of my Ignatian experiences, I think I should spend my last night at an Ignatian centre. Something I wouldn't have done if Longacres Lodge had rooms.

I find it uncomfortable when there is no electricity – especially as it becomes dark. I suspect it is worse because, after 9 hours, I am suffering from caffeine deficiency! For very many in Zambia, whether Zesco is providing power or not, has very little impact, since they don't have any mains electricity. So what am I complaining about? I lay down for a few minutes on the bed when the cheers announced the return of power!!

Well tomorrow is the last day during which I will have the laptop. Since most of that time we will have no electricity, I am unlikely to post another blog until my return to England. I will fill you in at that time with the happenings of the final few days.

Thanks for bearing with me over the past few weeks

Take care

Chris

Consolation

2010-12-11T22:46:00.002Z

Saturday 11th November

Today has been a joyous day – for the Ignatians among you, one of deep consolation.

Yesterday I spent the morning working on the Diocesan Projects Database. In the afternoon I attempted to teach ACCESS to Dr. Mvula in record time. Dr. Mvula is very proficient with the computer and, like me, an advocate of Ubuntu and Open Source software. Unfortunately he has Office 2007 on his computer. I am convinced that, since Office 2007 offers very little extra functionality, Microsoft have deliberately made it operate differently to former products. It therefore looks like a different product. I have great difficulty in finding my way around it and, when I do, everything is more complex and takes longer (for no good reason). This made my attempt at record speed training more difficult. In practice there were also a couple of functions that I failed to find with 2007, but I achieved most of what I set out to do.

I went to the chapel for mass and afterwards met Jennipher and one of the people involved in a new support group. Some more computer work was required in the evening – at least it is still behaving itself on the whole. I have minimised cooking recently. I made some salad a couple of days ago and have been working through it with some rice and peanuts or eggs.

In recent days I have found myself quite agitated and concerned. I am very aware that I cannot complete all the jobs I need to do. I am also aware of the huge difficulties of the people around me. They all have very basic needs which they cannot meet themselves. A friend of mine told me that he was now doing well – he has a mattress, a radio, a television (though it is broken), some pots and a bowl to bath in! These were all things he didn't possess when we first met! Those involved in projects need support for them to survive and meet the needs of so many disadvantaged people. Over the years I have become involved in a number of these small projects. Where they have developed the needs increase! So ironically success tends to require more support and I cannot meet all the requirements myself.

So this morning I woke, as I have recently, in an amount of inner turmoil. After mass, I decided to ring a hotel near the Immigration office to book a room. It is a hotel I have used before and ideal for what I want. They said that they would even be able to store my bags if I went to Chisamba – the only problem was they were fully booked on Wednesday when the room was required. This was a bit of a shock, as I have never had a problem before – and this time I was relying on this booking. I had promised to visit Charles at 9 hrs so I set off just after 9! Charles lives a couple of km down the Livingstone road. I thought I had everything with me but forgot the few dollars I had for him. I also needed to get some cash from the ATM as I passed. When I reached Barclays Bank there was a notice over the ATM informing me that it was out of order so again I was out of luck

I have with me a book called “Landmarks”. The book helps us to focus on our lives, using the Ignatian suggestions for getting in touch with our deepest feelings and helping us to discern God's will for us. In Ignatian spirituality, desolation is characterised by negative feelings, unease and sometimes despair. Consolation on the other hand brings forth positive feelings such as peace and joy. It is good for me to remind myself of my Ignatian Retreat in 1996 and the lessons I learnt during that life changing week.

So I woke in desolation, but when my plan to book into Longacres Lodge was thwarted, I felt a certain excitement. Failing to access any money confirmed my initial thoughts and the joy increased!!

The Lord works in mysterious ways! My experience in 1996 was that whenever I had set clear plans they failed completely and I was taken somewhere different, or in some other way had to abandon my plans. I would feel led along another path – and without fail, it was one that provided me with amazing experiences. Those experiences I re-call regularly and today they reminded me of how my god works with me.

It is clear that I cannot solve all the problems here, I can only do a little. Yet I have been trying to solve the world's problems (or at Monze's) on my own and today I believe I received a clear message. I can only be a conduit to bring peoples attention to the plight of the people here and I can only start a process of introducing systems and structures to support the projects in which I am involved. The people here, and others back home, have to carry on some of the work I start. The Lord is waiting for me to let him get on with his work and stop trying to run his show! So I intend to step back and marvel at what he has in store!

After my meeting with Charles I returned home and collected my washing from the line. The sun has been shining today – another delight for me – so after a few hours the laundry was dry. I was looking forward to a quick trip to the little dam, but promised to see Diven on the way. We chatted for a while and, as I got up to go, it started raining! So we talked a little longer before I stepped out into the glorious sunshine. I had almost forgotten how strong the sun is here – even at 5 pm.

On the far side of the market a guy had attracted my attention. He held out a model of a bicycle made from wire and bits of rubber. It not only looks like a bike, but the pedals turn the back wheel. He told me that he was selling it. Eventually he confirmed that he had made it himself. He wanted 5,000Zkw for the model so I asked him if he really thought it was worth that much (about 60p). I told him I thought it was worth at less double that and gave him 10,000. I felt very mean giving so little for what has so much work in it. Here of course most people live on less than 10,000Zkw per day.

With joy in my heart I approached the dam, greeting people along the way and responding to the children's “how are you”s. On the way I noticed early shoots of maize were pushing up in the fields adjacent to the road. The water in the dam covers a greater area at each visit and everywhere it is now green with fresh luscious grass. The cows are again putting on weight after a few months when food was scarce. Some lads were fishing in the lake. I asked one if I could look at his rod and line. A stick acts as the rod and a little piece of rubber as a float, a small worm is threaded onto a piece of wire bent into a hook. Again the ingenuity of the local people is inspiring. This fishing rod works well and small fish are caught for supper.

I sat down and enjoyed the quiet, still scene, as the sun dropped low in the sky. The colours as sunset approaches are particularly beautiful over here – especially on a day like today. There were plenty of clouds to reflect the last minutes of sunlight, as our star moves on to wake those on the other side of the earth. A solitary great egret stalked its prey on the far side of the lake. As I relaxed and enjoyed the peace, the rain started to come down in the form of a moderate shower. I didn't expect it to last, so I didn't move. A bird was hovering over the lake so I trained my binoculars on it. It was obviously a kingfisher and the behaviour told me it was probably a pied kingfisher though the fading light made identification from other features a little difficult. For a few minutes I was delighted by it hovering and diving and didn't mind the rain at all. I was disappointed that it didn't make a catch. The Great egret was replaced by a cattle egret and it was time to make tracks, if I was to reach home before dark.

As I was leaving the lake a few birds caught my eye. I talked about swallows earlier with Charles and mentioned the swifts. He claimed that swifts were rarely seen in Monze – or even Zambia. (Though I have seen many). I had assumed that the birds skimming the water and picking insects from the surface were swallows , but on closer inspection they proved to be the elusive swifts.

I had taken a picture earlier and been intrigued by a small, almost vertical, band of yellow cutting through a building on the far side of the lake and opposite the setting sun. Now this band of colour was clearer and I could see that it was a rainbow. I have only once before seen a proper rainbow in Zambia – and that was at a significant moment. ( You see rainbows – or rain circles - formed by the spray at Victoria Falls. They appear if you look down from a bridge close by.) The sun is usually so high that rainbows cannot be seen. In fact today it wasn't strictly a rainbow, but just the end of a rainbow! Who says the Lord hasn't a sense of humour! There is me worried where funds can be found! You know what is said to be found at the end of a rainbow? A crock of gold!!

On my way home Dilys rang to say she had just returned from running a day of prayer back at St. Gregory's church – I think I needed those prayers! It seemed to be very successful, despite a couple of administrative hiccups beyond her control.

As I approached my home, and still chatting to Dilys, a couple of guys wanted my attention. They produced a small tube of sun screen. I bought some sun screen in Lusaka a couple of weeks ago when I found out that I was allergic to the cream I brought from the UK. Apparently I left it on the bus and they wanted to return it to me. I was grateful – though I had little change for a tip. I am now expecting some good weather in the next few days!

Well it has been quite a day and as usual time has run away,

Goodnight and may God bless you

Chris

Hurrah! normal service has been resumed

2010-12-10T06:30:00.004Z

Thursday 9th December

Hurrah!

Fr Edward Hays suggests that we should make more use of this expression of delight. He says that it is believed the word is derived from a Slovenian word meaning Paradise!

Today I found another missing file and Hey Presto! my laptop started to look more like the one I remember from a couple of weeks back. It appears to be functioning normally now. There were a few initial error messages, but even those haven't appeared recently. So Hurrah indeed, I am in Paradise!

To add to my joy, as I returned, soon after the fix, from buying a loaf, I was greeted by a few swallows – those that left our shores back in September/October. They played excitedly gliding through the gate to Homecraft and almost brushing my legs as they pursued their game. I stopped for a while to marvel at their antics. It was at University watching the swallows that inspired me to learn what they were called and to distinguish them from their cousins, the martins and swifts, with which they often associate. It isn't the first time that the swallows have appeared to announce joy and remind me of the ever present Lord, who is behind everything good.

From a dirth of the wet stuff to a super abundance! The concern now is that the maize won't germinate properly because it will be too wet and, for those late planting, the fields are too soggy for ploughing. The past 4 or 5 days have been wet, with frequent showers throughout the day, but most particularly at night. A few dry days are needed now to restore the equilibrium.

I can't remember what I did yesterday! I must have slept throughout!! Oh yes! Now it is coming back to me! I spent the morning on the computer writing some reports. At lunchtime I went out to get some Frisco. With many products here Coca Cola and Nestle have a monopoly. I do my best to avoid both companies – and I would advise you to do likewise. A major problem I have with Nestle was the way they sold powdered milk – particularly in Africa – claiming that it was better than breast milk. For some of the babies this was disastrous – and tragic for their parents. Unfortunately we are all influenced by advertising – the multinationals wouldn't spend so much if it didn't work. Anyway I don't forgive such action easily – and the evidence is that Nestle hasn't made much improvement. I cannot get Fairtrade coffee in Monze but at least Frisco isn't Nestle!

I called into most of the small shops (one room kiosks) around the section of market nearby – but no Frisco. I got chatting to a couple of guys – the shopkeeper and a customer – and emerged over an hour later!One of the guys seemed convinced that “white men” where naturally more intelligent than their more colourful cousins. Again if your colonial masters continually tell you it is so, you are likely to believe it. I am endlessly pointing out that my grasp of languages is pathetic, whereas most people here speak several languages fluently. One of the guys admitted that he was only fluent in three languages – still that is two more than me! I enjoy discussions with the local people who are very far from unintelligent or ignorant. In fact they understand the art of discussion and debate, because talking to each other is what they do! Unfortunately back home we are too busy to talk to each other. The guys couldn't believe that I could walk through town in Cheltenham with no one greeting me – here it is unheard of. Sometimes I am walking along and get called back because I have been so caught up in my thoughts that I failed to notice someone greeting me – often a complete stranger.

The market sells all sorts! There are areas that specialise in certain items. So just opposites my gates the ladies sell groundnuts (peanuts) – often shelling them while they wait for customers. If I squeeze through a small gap past some wooden stalls and small brick built shops there is an open area where women sit on the ground selling onions, tomatoes, cabbages and other vegetables, and fruit. To the right as I leave Homecraft they sell chickens and turkeys – people here seem content to carry their supper home alive! - on the right hand side of the road, the stallholders sell secondhand clothes – probably most from Europe and the US. The lads on the left sell bags of sugar, soft drinks – and hard ones! (they have small sachets containing whisky, brandy and gin), they also sell bread from the local bakeries (we have two in Monze – Mummy's and Mwapona – a Tonga word meaning Hallo) and they sell some sweets and biscuits. So it goes on throughout the market with stalls which have almost identical stock sitting side by side. You can buy music CDs, parts for your plough, umbrellas, cases, get your bike mended or hair cut, if you know where to look, and all within a couple of hundred metres of my flat!

Jennipher came around just before 2 pm. In Pemba it had been raining since 19 hrs last night and it was still pouring when she left. She told me of a man who had recently been tested and found to be HIV+. Both his wives left him and took the children. One even damaged the thatched roof of his house before leaving him with nothing. He has been sick for a while – hence the test. Naturally for the spouse it is a shock to find their husband (or wife) is positive. I know in the UK it isn't unusual for the husband/wife not to tell their spouse. Of course the likelihood is that the other partner and maybe some of the children, will also be infected. It is people such as Jennipher that try to bring the families to an understanding of the disease and an acceptance of the situation. Jennipher is now a trained counsellor and would like many more to receive training – this would relieve her of some of the workload apart from anything else. Jennipher said that some of her group went to help the man, they made him some porridge and warmed some water for a bath, because the people here are feeling the cold. Jennipher will share some of her mealie meal (ground maize) with him.

This afternoon I called around at the convent where Bridget and Clara had filled my flexible bag with baskets and bags! It was all I could do to haul it back to my flat.

I called at the hospital and found that Judy's computer has the same version of Windows XP as my laptop so I took another copy of explorer. (Just in case the error messages kept coming). I bumped into Dr Mvula who showed me a letter demanding information by today. The letter was written in Livingstone yesterday and delivered today – I was impressed by the postal service and commented that it could have been worse – it might have been delivered tomorrow! We arranged to have a training session on ACCESS tomorrow. A very quick 8 hour basic course will need to be compressed into about two hours!! We will see!

I popped in to see Ireen. I was told to pick up my shirts on Tuesday, so I was a bit late. Anyway she has a patient in the hospital at the moment so they will be ready on Monday! Earlier today I decided I needed to leave Monze next Wednesday if I am to have any chance of retrieving my Work permit from Immigration, in Lusaka, before I leave Zambia. Still by Tuesday evening (sometime) the shirts will be ready – and they will be excellent!

As I passed Rasta Brian he called me back. He told me he was going to teach me how to box. He insisted that I put on a pair of boxing gloves and showed me how to throw a couple of punches, which he caught with his open palms. He called the moves and I throw the punches – and ducked when appropriate. I think that was meant to be the first of several lessons. I think Brian is hoping to become a boxer in order to get away from selling small items on the roadside. He is one of many intelligent guys in the town who have very little prospect of escaping the trap of poverty into which they find themselves. That reminds me I need to burn a few of his incense sticks!

Having double booked myself tomorrow afternoon I popped my head around Vincent's door and apologised.

Once again another day has passed and there are a huge list of tasks to be done – many of which will be left undone. It is usually at this time in my visit that something crops up to occupy the rest of my stay – or electricity vanishes for a couple of days!!

Bye for now

Chris

P.S. The pictures don't do the market justice. It is usually much busier - I will try to get some more representative photos.

Hurrah normal service has been resumed

2010-12-10T06:30:00.000Z

Child Labour, Laughter and Singing

2010-12-07T19:37:00.003Z

Tuesday 7th December

You can almost see the grass grow in Monze at the moment! The rain is now coming regularly in showers and – especially at night in longer spells. People were wearing coats today! However,I am still comfortable in shirt sleeves. We have had clouds now for several days, with relatively little sun. Every time I look outside, the grass is higher and less of the sandy soil is visible. The transformation of Zambia at this time is wonderful, every bit as much as our Spring – but much quicker and more dramatic.

At lunchtime I bought some eggs of a young boy. It is difficult to know what is best. Boys of 10 or 11 – some much younger – shouldn't be selling goods on the streets, they should be at school. However for many if they didn't help earn money for the family – they and those who rely on them would go hungry. Some will even be looking after sick parents. Of course this shouldn't be necessary, but until we are prepared to share more of our wealth with the poorest the situation won't change. Until then I will have to decide whether to put a few kwacha in the children's pockets or tell them that they should be in school!

Yesterday evening I went to the market for a few items. It is a while since I visited my friend who has a prime corner spot as you enter the covered market. As well as onions and tomatoes, I can rely on her for herbs and spices. I usually get a supply of curry powder, paprika and piri piri (chilli) from her. She also sells “village garlic” which is very powerful and yesterday she had some fresh root ginger. It was beginning to sprout so she told me to plant it! While at her stall another friend from St. Veronica's – also a marketeer - came up to me and said I should buy some mushrooms from her – she was just fetching them!

I visited a couple of other stalls picking up among other vegetables a cabbage. My biggest problem with cabbages is finding one that is small enough! I have only just over a week to eat it!! I found one that is only 5 – 6 inches in diameter – these cabbages have a very firmly packed heart so it probably weighs about 1 kg (2lbs) and cost 1,500 kwacha (20p). I found my friend back at her stall and I bought three mushrooms from her for 5,000 kwacha (60p) – but since the smallest was about 6 inches (15cm) in diameter, I had enough for two substantial meals!

This evening for supper I had garlic mushrooms with Kapenta (very small fish - sold dried) fried with pounded groundnuts and rice.

I have continued to read “chasing joy” and I am enjoying it. Edward Hays seems to be my kind of priest. He moved from the theme of laughter to that of singing – he suggests that we should sing regularly unaccompanied and on our own. However, he claims that the church is a place were people are always solemn and even miserable, where there isn't spontaneous laughter, lots of smiling or joyful singing. He hasn't visited Zambia!! I might try to contact him and put him right! I suspect however that he is reflecting what he sees in the US and unfortunately is also very much true in the UK. It is a shame that Christian churches can seem to be joyless places, when the God that I know is in the smiling faces and laughter I see all around me here. And yes it is common to come across people in the streets of Monze singing (solo) as they make their cheerful way about town.

This evening I called to the chapel for mass. The bishop celebrated the mass for our congregation of about 10 people. At the cathedral I don't think I have known him celebrate daily mass. He is usually present but takes a back seat and allows one of the other priests to be the principle celebrant. He occasionally visits the outlying churches and celebrates mass for those congregation – as he did this evening.

As I left the hospital I met Jennipher heading my way. She had said that she would call around earlier, but was detained at a meeting and would have gone straight home had our paths not crossed. She was visiting a client in hospital. He works as a security guard and last night some people came to rob the place he was guarding. He went to investigate and was shot in the neck. Although such instances are not common, there are occasional instances of shooting in this area. The patient had been looking after his mother who is largely bedridden, though today she was trying to tend to him in Monze Hospital. They will probably try to transfer him to Lusaka where they are better able to treat him.

I was expecting Teddy this evening, but either my phone has gone mute, or it's my ears – because I see I have missed two calls from him!

I must rush because I have another webcam test to perform!

Take care

Chris.

A New Priest and a little Relaxation

2010-12-06T11:26:00.002Z

Monday 6th December

Unusually I have decided to write this in the morning. I tend to feel guilty when I do something that doesn't feel like work, during working hours. However, I believe that what I am doing here should go a lot further than producing systems, writing project reports etc. I believe one of my major roles is to try to bridge the gap between life here and back in the UK. The blog is a part of that process. In any case, I need a break from the PIZZ accounts database. Working on the database at the moment is an act of faith, because, as it stands, it is not clear that it will be accessible enough to be used here – my problems with the Windows system are still present.

Yesterday I attended mass at Our Lady of the Wayside church. Fr. Maambo, the former Priest in Charge, moved to another church just before I came out in November. At the mass Fr. Raphael was introduced. He will take over in charge of the church and I hope to have an opportunity to talk to him about the growing partnership with St. Gregory's church in Cheltenham before I leave.
The day started overcast and the sun was almost entirely absent throughout the day – something rare in my experience. However, there was no significant rain. In view of the weather I was told it was unlikely that St. Veronica's Small Christian Community would meet. Most families in the community have very small houses that wouldn't contain the group that gathers. We therefore meet outside, under a little shade if possible. However, there is no shelter from the rain.

I therefore had more free time than I had expected. I used the opportunity to do a bit of housework while listening to the music stored on my laptop. I also picked up a copy of the Post – an independent national newspaper – and caught up with local, and international, events.

I have had difficulty in locating a couple of computer applications. Solitaire seems to be the most played computer game worldwide but, of the ones usually on offer with Microsoft, I prefer “Hearts”. After an extensive search I managed to locate it yesterday and indulged myself with a few games! I have finished the novels I brought out – so I was looking for another pastime when I have a chance to relax.

Today I had a couple of people asking me whether I had found support for their projects. It is always difficult when people ask me for support and I feel that I cannot help. Many people I don't know ask for small sums of money because they are hungry. It is difficult to say no, but there are so many hungry people just here in Monze. If I said yes to everyone who asked, I would give away a significant sum each day. Even if I could manage it , I suspect that the numbers would grow and I would set a precedent for other “white folks” who visit the town, causing further problems. However when people you know well ask for support, it is more difficult. A friend asked me a year or so back if I could find help for her to complete the building of her house. Although it is important that this work is completed I find it difficult to give too much priority to this among so many other requests.

The other enquiry was from Best. I think that today was the deadline for applying for a university course. I would love to be able to help him through university. A year or more back he suggested we fund a taxi for him to set up a business with his friend. He was confident that this would enable him to raise sufficient money to pay for his own fees. In practice I was able to find money for his course fees, but not the taxi. It probably would have cost only a little more for the taxi and his university course might now have been secure. He will now have to stop studying and try to earn a little money to keep himself. Maybe he will be able to return and complete his studies leading to a degree in Law in a year or two – I certainly hope so. Best has a bright future if he completes his studies, otherwise he will still have benefited from the support that he has received. He will probably be able to gain a junior legal position when he is awarded his diploma. (He his just completing his exams in the next few days.

During the night we had some more showers – with the associated sound and light show! As I write the sun is trying to break through. The morning has been cooler than of late, though not cool enough to tempt me to put on a jumper. Yes! I do know that you have been gripped by sub zero temperatures and probably don't want to know about me sitting in shirt sleeves with the window open, on what I consider a cool day!! So I won't mention it!

Schools and colleges are breaking up for a Christmas break. PIZZ school closed on Friday and will re-open in January. There has been a lot of activity outside and I suspect that the Homecraft training centre is also about to close for Christmas.

Last night I noticed that my friends Mary and Dominic were online on Skype so I gave them a call. It was a chance for me to test my system and to determine whether it would be feasible to set up a session between PIZZ school and Whitecross school in the UK. I was very pleased with the result, though the video was only one way – I didn't receive any picture at my end. ( I have now achieved one way video in both directions, on different – but I am confident that it will succeed.) I am currently trying to gauge the cost. Since my Internet connection is charged according to the amount of data transferred, I suspect a video link would be expensive to use regularly – but now and again, for special occasions, it could be worthwhile.

Chris

More welcome rain

2010-12-04T21:35:00.003Z

Friday 3rd December

It rained again last night and, before I turned in, the accompanying storm once again put out the lights!

With the computer working I have plenty to keep me occupied. Unfortunately this morning after about 1½ hours my battery gave out. I headed to the hospital and met one or two friends before returning via Ireen. She has started on this years garments and told me to return next week when all will be ready.

Fortunately power returned at midday and, after a spot of lunch, I was able to return to the task of tailoring the accounts database for PIZZ school. I don't like repeating any task, so when there are standard items of expenditure each month – in this case teachers salaries – I don't see why the data should be retyped. So I spent an hour or two creating a button or two that will automatically fill in the relevant details. Being the sad individual I am, I revel in such exercises.

Sr Racheal rang yesterday to ask if I could call around this morning to help her with some anti-virus software. This we postponed until power returned. At the convent it was 15 hrs before the electricity was once again flowing. We met soon after. In Zambia, power outages are part of life. In previous years power was generally rationed. Often at peak times – e.g. supper time the power would be turned off for a couple of hours. Being without power for best part of a day is very common. I doubt if it occurred in the UK people would take is as calmly!

Sr. Rachael's computer had Kapersky installed as the anti-virus but the subscription had expired. She bought AVG from a computer firm in Lusaka to replace it. Initially she had problems when she started to install because she couldn't see the subscription code. This she later realised that was because it was printed on the CD itself – which of course was by this time inside the PC. Unfortunately in Zambia it is difficult to ensure that you are getting the genuine article – this is true with most goods, but especially true with any software product. If you have no technical knowledge you can be walking into a minefield. The firm in Lusaka is reputable, yet having a disk printed with the organisations details made me a little suspicious – I am also doubtful that AVG provide their software to the retail market – and to be resold using a local firm's disks. A warning came up to say the installation was out of date and might not work properly. However it seemed to install OK, but the anti-virus files were nearly a year out of date. Sr Racheal was told that the software would last for 2 years but in fact the subscription runs out in 15 months. The price was about what I would expect to pay in the UK for Norton or Kapersky for a year – so it wasn't cheap.

In Monze the problem of computer viruses is a major one. The lack of technical knowledge means that many people pay a lot of money and receive products that are of little value. I decided to fetch my modem so that at least the software could be updated – Sr. Racheal has no Internet connection so can't do update the software herself. I left the updates being downloaded – after 1½ hours it only had just over an hour to go. Unfortunately MTN charges per MByte and there was about 100MBytes to download - therefore another significant bill.

Our world is run by the rich powerful nations and is seen from their perspective. The Internet is regarded as ubiquitous and fast; constant electricity and clean water supplies are taken for granted, as are tarred roads. So the products on offer rely on huge assumptions that don't apply here – hence often they don't work – or don't work for long. I was told today of an NGO that provided a Ford vehicle for one of their project. This is great, as long as it doesn't go wrong! You won't find Ford parts in Zambia and I don't know the nearest country to supply them – it could be an expensive spark plug or distributor cap! Or yet another abandoned piece of expensive equipment!

Reymond called around this evening and we talked about various issues. In particular we discussed the way in which Zambian resources seem to be destined for other countries. I try my best to use Zambian products. I use Zamtel as my mobile network provider. Zamtel until recently was government owned and therefore profits stayed within the country. However recently a Middle Eastern firm has bought 75% of the company – 25% being retained by the government. The massive advertising by multinationals has a huge influence (they wouldn't spend so much otherwise). The effect is for most Zambians to believe that Zambian products are inferior and therefore the little money they have goes to help the companies from the richer nations to make even more money. Even most of the brightest graduates from Zambia leave the country after having received their training here.

Unfortunately the politicians haven't the courage, the will or the power to ensure that firms operating in the this country at least give a fair share of the profits to help the people out of poverty. Of course the multinationals have no conscience and those running them only have an interest in profit.

Sometimes it is difficult to see how the cycle of poverty can be broken. Today Ian said that God was taking special care of Africa. There is no doubt that he is ever present in the suffering of the people here. The chapter I have just read in a book (entitled “chasing joy”) that I brought with me, talks about smiling and laughing. The author points out that we don't see smiling Madonnas or statues of Jesus – like him, I believe the world would be much better off if we did! He also refers to an Apache story of creation where the Creator made humans come fully alive by giving them the ability to laugh. The people here are certainly fully alive and have a close relationship with their Creator. I read that David Cameron is trying to make the UK the second country in the world to measure well being. (I think it's Bhutan that is other one!) I wonder whether the amount of laughter will be measured? On such a measurement Zambia is indeed wealthy!

I think I mentioned, in a previous blog posting, the campaign to, at least, ensure that companies declare there tax contributions in all the countries were they operate. When I get home I intend to seek those working in Zambia and do a little hassling of my own!!

Tomorrow I need to take a bit of a break, for the temptation is to keep running at sprint speed – though I am running a marathon!

Saturday 4th December

I lay in this morning until about 7.30. I had to buy some more cornflakes as I had run out – and I need them to start my day!! I decided to do a bit of washing this morning. The day started cloudy but the sky was brightening and I guessed that the washing would soon dry.

I had decided, as I said above, to have a bit of a rest, so I read for a while and enjoyed a cup or two of tea. Even in the hottest weather I find a cup of tea refreshing – drinking a cup of tea is also a comfortingly familiar activity – like the bowl of cornflakes.

I hung out my washing and, at a little after 11 hrs, headed out towards my regular haunt – the little lake (dam) to the south of the town. I used to think it was to the west, but my sense of direction has always been poor! Along the way I was accompanied by a flock of swallows. There are a variety of different swallow species in Zambia but these were the European variety. It is unusual to see swallows grouped together on electricity cables – as they do in the UK before leaving for the winter. - but today as well as their usual playful swooping and turning, they made use of these perches. At the dam, I sat under a tree for a while and watched while a few waders pecked at the waters edge - one a particularly pretty slender bird, with a thin pointed black bill and long legs, I identified as a Black Winged Stint, there was also a Little Egret and a couple of African Jacanas – all rather attractive birds.

After a while I decided to head a bit further along the road to St. Marys and Kisito. St. Mary's is a village about 15 km from Monze. Kisito Pastoral Centre is found just before the village. In 2004 I was invited to attend a weekend retreat at Kisito and enjoyed it. I have always felt particularly privileged when offered the opportunity to experience a part of life not generally available to visitors to this country. To spend a couple of days in prayer with a small group can be an intimate experience. So to be welcomed into such a group where people often share personal and private experiences, requires a lot of trust and I am grateful.

Some years afterwards I chose to walk to Kisito (and back again!). Today I contented myself by travelling just a kilometre or so beyond the lake. I took a turning from the main road and eventually found another tree that offered some shade. It always does me good to get into the countryside. The Kisito road is wide and relatively good, but only two or three vehicles passed me during my stroll. I was surprised to see a couple of tractors – ox carts are more common around Monze. A calf was joined on the road by a couple of adults and a group of goats rummaged around the bushes at the roadside. Dragonflies abound at the moment – particularly, though not exclusively, near the dam. I sometimes wonder how many ants there are in the world! Zambia certainly has it's share. Finding a suitable place to sit is always a bit tricky. If I drop any of my lunch, a great herd of the creatures appear from the ground to eat or carry away the scraps. There are also a large variety of beetles busily walking here and there. Every so often the air is filled with sound, a bit like a school of children rattling their shakers. I am not sure whether the sound is from beetles or grasshoppers, but it starts suddenly and is very loud. There are other, now familiar sounds, but they continue to be equally mysterious. There is a whistle – just a long single tone, that occurs often and another sound, like the noise that sometimes emanates from an electrical installation on a damp day. This is very loud and when I approach it stops – only to restart as I move on.

Approaching me down the road was a family in their best attire – perhaps heading for church. I thought that I would love a picture and, as I passed, they asked me if “I would copy them” - which of course I did with great pleasure. They asked if I could give them a print. I will see if I can organise something, but the logistics are not simple! I told them I couldn't promise anything – I will add the picture to this blog.

This is the end of Zambia's spring. Some trees are in flower. A pretty catkin on a thorn bush caught my attention. These bushes have lovely delicate soft leaves hiding very vicious needles and then these beautiful catkins.

On my return journey a pick-up van stopped and the driver ( Mr. Meheritona) offered me a lift. Tabo Meheritona used to be the School Manager at St. Vincent's Community School and we have known each other for several years. I thanked him for his offer but explained that I wanted the exercise – so he left after greeting me.

I returned to the dam and once again sat for a while. Some gentle rain started to fall. I was interested that no one took any notice. People, like me, sitting and relaxing, continued, as did those fishing and of course those swimming in the lake. The rain was very gentle and quite refreshing, hardly managing to wet the skin before evaporating again.

It was time anyway to head towards home. I had arranged to call by Diven's shop and hopefully pick up some Finta (UHT milk) that I asked him to buy for me. He rang when I was a few minutes away to check that I was on my way. I stepped into the shop and the rain re-commenced. This time it was a heavy shower lasting for 5 – 10 minutes. I was a bit concerned about my washing on the line back home but glad of the shelter. In previous blogs I have referred to my friend Bro Joe (now Saint Joe) and his ability to keep dry whatever the weather! When you were with Joe, the rain was always somewhere else. So, often, we would enter a building or vehicle and the heavens would open; or would walk outside and the rain would immediately stop! This incident made me remember Joe.

On the way home a river had started flowing where on the outward journey there was a small road. When I arrived home I found that washing was again wet but only one shirt had hit the ground – I expected to find the line collapsed and everything in the mud. I rinsed the shirt and decide to leave the washing out. It was only 15.30 and it would be almost dry again by nightfall.

I retrieved my modem from Sr. Racheal. There is a short cut through the church grounds to the convent and hospital using a small gate that is usually open. The other day I passed the seminarian, working at the church, who told me I should use it. I don't feel I should take advantage by using this route generally, but since it links the church and convent directly, it seemed appropriate in this case. (It saves at least ½ km and 10 minutes!). Yesterday evening the anti-virus update worked, though it halted for a while. It also appears that some Windows updates were downloaded, which was an added bonus. Sr. Racheal informed me that there are a couple of other computers at the convent needing attention, so I agreed to look at them before I leave the country!

Luke came around a little later. Luke is starting his exams on Monday and is confident of success. He hopes to go onto the final stage in June. This would give him a good opportunity to progress with his career and would give him a number of course exemptions if he decided to pursue a degree course. We talked a bit about local issues. It is useful to get direct feedback from friends. Much of the 'gossip' I hear repeats similar stories and helps me build up a picture of life here in Monze – particularly in relation to the many projects in which I have some involvement.

I am getting lazy in respect to my meals. I had some beans boiled a couple of days ago, so added a little rice and some salad – also prepared earlier in the week. The fridge keeps reasonably cool even when the power is off, though frozen food will naturally de-frost, so the food was still edible.

I didn't access the Net yesterday, so I will check it out now.

Cheers

Chris

World AIDS Day & Confused Inswa

2010-12-02T20:30:00.005Z

Thursday 2nd December

The inswa seem to be confused this year! Usually the flying ants or inswa all fly on a particular night as the rains arrive. In the morning any areas under the lights to which they are attracted are carpeted by their fallen wings. This year however they have, so far, flown on three consecutive nights.

Yesterday December 1st was World AIDS Day – a bit better known than November 19th which is World Toilet Day! I wanted to prepare a presentation for today so I started the day with my computer. At about 11 hrs Jennipher rang to tell me that I must go to the District Office and see how they were celebrating.

The local dignatories were present and the event comprised a few speeches and a number of sketches looking at different aspects of the disease. One was about a woman who was sacked when the employer was told she had AIDS. She went to one of the support organisations who explained that she couldn't be legally sacked because of the disease. Eventually the employer was brought to court and was told to take her back on the payroll. The issue of stigma was considered, and the ignorance that makes people fear contact with someone having AIDS. Jennipher acted as interpreter for me since almost all the sketches were in chitonga.

I was grateful that I was allowed to stay in the background – at similar events I have been dragged under the tent with the VIPs, which, although an honour, is not something I want.

Jennipher on the other hand is a prominent person in terms of HIV/AIDS support and doesn't hide in the background. She gave a powerful testimony about her life before and after contracting the disease. As always she was very vociferous about the need for extra support to maintain the lives of those living with AIDS. She received loud applause at the end of her speech.

In the afternoon I called around to see Mrs. Sianga to talk more about her project and collect some information to help us put some pages on the Big Give and Global Giving websites. I was again struck by the achievements that this woman has made. There are more than 200 children who attend her schools. Some grade one students are now taking their grade 9 exams. Some say to her “if it wasn't for the school were would we be now?”, and there is little doubt that their lives would be very different. As well as providing education, the school provides food – when funds allow – and gives the children a safe place to meet others and make friendships. The children are some of the most disadvantaged in the area, many have lost parents and some also have AIDS. The school is staffed by people who are sympathetic and understanding of the difficulties faced by the children. As well as teaching, they check on students if they are not attending and help with administering medication etc. Small things to preserve the privacy of the children and maintain their dignity have been introduced. Other schools would not take such issues into consideration, but to a child they can make a huge difference as to how they perceive themselves. I hope that many who look on the websites will be moved to support this project - their money won't be wasted.

A quick visit to Diven's shop, and only a few minutes late for my 17 hrs appointment with Vincent. We decided that this time was best to get an hour's ACCESS training done. It seems to be going well – another couple of sessions should complete this very swift course.

I decided to boil the remaining mushrooms, eat some and try to freeze the remainder. There wasn't much evening left and some more preparation for today needed. I did manage to set up a Sype link with my son Andy, though my webcam failed to work. I suspect that I need to sort out the laptop to get it to connect. Voice is fine and I can receive pictures – though my credit was eaten up rapidly when we used video. I will need to do more testing to establish the cost and whether there is a cheaper alternative.

This morning I gave a presentation to the hospital management team on efficiency and cost reduction. I gave a few ideas and examples from my experience of how costs can be minimised and managed to stimulate a bit of discussion. I was interested that they particularly picked up on the importance of having well motivated staff. I might be asked to give some follow-up sessions.

I have plenty of computer work to fill in any spare moments. Now that I can use most of the computer facilities and, in particular the ACCESS databases, I never have an excuse for an idle moment!

At around 15.30 I had another training session with Vincent.

I know that one of my avid readers has told me that I mustn't eat the ants, but it would be impolite to refuse when a friend has offered you a bowl of this delicacy! So when Diven told me he wanted to bring me some inswa I had to agree.

At about 19.30 he arrived with a bag full of these little fat ants. His current girlfriend had caught them. I haven't been presented with raw inswa before.( I didn't join him in tasting them before cooking!). He explained how to prepare them and agreed to help me cook and eat them. I spent much of the cooking time talking to Dilys. We were alternating with cooking, and not concentrating properly and unfortunately some got a little overdone! Still we split about half of them and ate them between us – I will be able to enjoy the rest tomorrow!!

Well time to check the Internet

Bye for now,

Chris

Back in the Bush

2010-11-30T21:59:00.001Z

Tuesday 30th November

Back in Monze the rains arrived last night, falling for much of the night and up to about 10 hrs. There will no longer be any delay before people start planting their crops. I heard Lusaka (and probably Chisamba) also had some decent rain.

On Saturday morning I met with the management committee at Kaliyangile. It is always good to have a chance to listen to the local views and ideas in relation to the project and it is an opportunity for me to discuss the role of HATW and our supporters.

I decided to repeat my walk of the previous visit. The clouds were amassing and it looked as if rains were bound to fall, but although rain could be seen in the distance I was spared a soaking. I recalled the year in England when, wherever I walked, I remained dry. Sometimes I believe the Lord smiles upon us in these little ways.

Sunday was the first day of Advent – the time when, as Christians, we start our preparations for Christmas – the Birthday of Jesus. The secular world in the UK starts preparing in September – or earlier with the usual glitter and tinsel, though often the relevance of this Christian celebration is forgotten. At mass the children presented a play and read from the scriptures. It was well done and appreciated by the congregation and the priest. The altar was adorned with symbols of this time – an Advent wreath with four candles – one for each week in Advent, a Jesse tree containing names from the ancestry of Jesus and on the back wall were painted words reflecting the meaning of Advent, such as preparation and anticipation.

I decided once again to go for a walk. I wanted to go for a long walk but was aware that today there were few clouds to shade the sun. I had thought the suntan lotion I brought from the UK was not one that I was allergic to. Dilys, however was right and so, when I used it earlier on the trip, I came out in a rash. I have avoided it since, but haven't done any significant walks. In the event I decided not to stop as intended but to keep walking until the path took me to a more wooded area. Probably 1 hour when the sun was at it hottest. However I had my cap on and with my arms by my sides the sun was shaded by the short sleeves.

It is the time of year here when the sun is directly overhead at midday. So in fact, when walking, the
suns rays only glance most of the body. When I raised my binoculars, however, the intense heat of the sun suddenly became apparent. Lying in the sun here without very strong sun block would not be a good idea for us with pale skins!

I enjoyed my walks in the bush this weekend. The sounds of the birds are interesting and different from the UK. It is a joy when I manage to identify one of the birds. Little features now sometimes lead me to recalling the species – a small bee-eater, a fork tailed drongo and a couple of rollers were birds I recognised. Butterflies of a variety of colours add to the scene and one of the many beautiful locusts – often initially confused for small birds because of their size – caught my eye and completed a very African scene.

Over the years so much has become familiar. The fact that to see another 'white' face is a rarity, mothers with babies strapped to their backs with Chitenges and carrying all manner of items balanced on their heads, is part of everyday life as are so many small scenes. After mass a large group of children climbed into the back of a truck and at the other end of the High Street dismounted and ran back towards the church having enjoyed their little adventure.

Back at the Guest House I had chicken and nshima for supper while a heated debate was raging in the bar. The question under discussion was whether Jesus was God or “just” the Son of God. I reflected that I couldn't imagine such a debate taking part in a bar in the UK. Football or politics might be discussed, but people quoting from the bible to justify their theological beliefs is not something I would expect!

After supper I wondered whether to risk joining the debate which was still being pursued with great vigour. I was invited to join the group – many of whom I had met before. One lad, who had obtained his biblical knowledge from the Jehovah's Witnesses, seemed to be outnumbered by Christians of other persuasions. Eventually I was asked for my views. My personal views are heavily influenced by my Roman Catholic beliefs, but I remember a BBC programme presented by a guy who claimed to be agnostic. He looked at the historical information about Jesus and concluded that the evidence confirms that Jesus did exist and that he was known as a teacher and a healer, also that Jesus believed that he was God. I also said that different Christian groups had their own interpretation of the bible – I happen to believe mine is correct – however I might be wrong! I believe that whatever religion we believe in, as long as we try to be open to God and do what we sincerely believe is right, the theological differences are not important. It is interesting that at the heart of so many religions is the belief that we are meant to respect each other and God's creation, to live in peace and to look after the weakest. It is a shame that many, who claim to be driven by religion, forget these basic principles.

Even in the drink fuelled bar at Chisamba it was something of a privilege to be included in their debate.

After a quick meeting with Justine yesterday morning I set off for Monze. I checked on the availability of the “Birds of Zambia” through contacts I was given but wasn't sure enough that the book I was talking about was the same as that on offer – so I decided not to make a long detour to the other side of town to check. One day I will obtain a copy!

From Chisamba to Monze seems to take a day! I left at about 10 hrs and Justine dropped me at the crossroads were I soon caught a minibus to Lusaka. I walked through town, had a quick bite and jumped onto a medium sized 'Rosa' bus. It left within half an hour. I wasn't sure why, when we filled up with fuel, the bus was rocked from side to side by the driver! We made good progress, except when going uphill – but fortunately didn't need to get out to push! At Mazabuka we called at two more garages. It is always a little disconcerting when repeated visits are made to garages. At the second, a watering can was passed through the drivers window and the guys at the front stood up while hissing noises came that area – much to their amusement. Eventually water must have been poured into the radiator and we were on our way again. (Livingstone is less than 300 km so it should have made it!!)

I arrived back home at 17 hrs and staff were still working in the Diocesan Offices, so retrieving my keys wasn't a problem. There was no electricity, so I made a salad, read for a while and turned in early.

This morning the electricity had still not returned and by mid morning the water also stopped flowing. I visited the hospital and met Sichone. In 2004 one of the first areas I looked at was the stores and there I met Sichone. He lost his mother recently and has been away from the hospital for a while as a result. It was good to once again touch base with him.

Diven came around at lunchtime and Jennipher also joined us. Jennipher is getting prepared for World AIDS day tomorrow - December 1st. She usually takes a very active part in the events here in Monze and subsequently has activities back at Pemba with her own support groups.

This evening I joined Diven for a meal and a couple of Mosis at Tooters. By about lunchtime the power and water returned – though initially the water was very brown. Soloman had picked some wild mushrooms for me this morning, which Jennipher delivered – so I treated myself to a plateful before heading out.

Its now past the time to get on the Internet but I will give it a go anyway.

Best wishes

Chris

Windows working sort off

2010-11-26T19:30:00.003Z

Friday 26th November

The rains keep promising but don't quite arrive – at least not here. The farmer with fields next to Kaliyangile took a chance and planted a few days ago. He could be in trouble!

Last night I found that I could get into most of the Windows applications – including Firefox and the MTN Modem – hence the blog posting last night. I also can access my photo manipulation program 'Gimp' which is excellent at reducing the size of photos – essential here if you want to put them on the net. However, the system is still not really usable with Windows for a computer novice.

I tidied the accounts system for Kaliyangile and did a bit of analysis which, of course, showed that more funds need to be found to make ends meet.

I can't cope with three cooked meals here, so at lunchtime I have taken to eating an egg with some bananas and of course a mango or two. I added a few roasted and salted peanuts to today's lunch.

Life here is less frantic than in Monze – which is probably just as well. I have had a few calls asking when I will be back, because there are things for me to do!

At supper one of the guys said he lives about 60 km away. A place where most people have never seen a 'white man'. He said they would be delighted if I visited. One day I must take up such an offer and go deep into the bush. I am sure that it would be a wonderful experience. Although I have been off the beaten track a little, I haven't been to any of the really remote areas.

Well I will surprise you by finishing here! A short blog at last!

Chris

P.S. I will try to add a picture of a proper mango!

Back in Chisamba

2010-11-25T19:06:00.004Z

Thursday 25th November

The weather has turned cooler and the cloud cover has increased. Though it is unlikely to compare with what I hear is happening in the UK. Temperatures today only reached about 28 °C and I still turned red waiting and travelling in the minibus yesterday.

I attended mass at 6.30 am yesterday and set off for Lusaka at a little after 8 am. The bus moved off quickly, but stopped along the main road until it was full. I still forget what full means! When we set off we had five adults wedged into the four seats in our row. Behind us there were 5 seats but children don't count, so an additional 3 or 4 joined the adults. The bus was the all stopping variety. Which means that if anyone is at the side of the road the driver stops and the conductor tries to persuade them to come for the ride – irrespective of the number of passengers already aboard.

As a result it was about 12 hrs before we reached the drop off point in Lusaka. The buses used to go into the bus station in town, but, probably because of the traffic jams, they now stop as we enter the city and it is a short walk into town.

I had arranged to meet up with Justina at the CHAZ offices and she was waiting for me when I arrived. We talked a little about her project to set up “LIFE Zambia” and then caught up on other topics. We were joined by a lady from CHAZ and a guy who originated from Rotterdam and was acting as a consultant for organisations involved with NGOs. They were enjoying nshima and fish which looked rather appetising – maybe the menu at CHAZ isn't as fictitious as I had imagined – one day I might even get my crocodile steak!

Justina led me to a bus station to catch a little bus to Chisamba. I was told to take the front seat and, when the girl who had been sitting there protested, she was told that girls aren't allowed in the front, (and the driver wasn't going to let me sit in the back). I told her that he wouldn't get away with that in England. Apparently she was the first on the bus at 9hrs and was told it would be going by 12. It was 14hrs and we didn't set off till 14.40 – and then we only moved a few metres before stopping for another 20 minutes!

I decided to get a taxi from the crossroads rather than get Justine to pick me up. I wasn't sure how many passengers we had since people got in and out over a period of a few minutes. I expected to wait an hour or so until we had sufficient passengers, but suddenly someone said “let's go” and the taxi filled immediately and off we went!

I was greeted warmly by the staff at the guest house and given my usual room – this time they have installed the mosquito net much to my relief. While waiting for Justine, Patrick, who is very much involved with the project, appeared and was surprised to see me. I also got chatting to a guy who said that his father was involved in the fight for independence along with Sata who is now one of the current opposition leaders. Unfortunately Zambia is a country that has been getting worse economically over recent years. Many blame the politicians. The current ruling party has now been in power for 20 years and it isn't easy to displace them.

I enjoyed my nshima beef yesterday, today I am told chicken is on the menu – so I will have that for a change.

I decided to give the bar a miss, instead I read and had an early night.

It rained a little last night. I enjoyed a breakfast of eggs and chips, with a few cups of tea before heading for Kaliyangile – our Chisamba project. One day the windpump will be working again and that will be a great joy for me – until then I will just hope!

It was time to catch up with Justine, the Centre Manager. As always there are plenty of challenges. HATW have recently started using Global Giving and The Big Idea to help raise funds for projects in which we are involved. We hope to add PIZZ in Monze and Kaliyangile here in Chisamba to the list. One of the major issues here is transport costs. Almost everything needs to be brought from Lusaka which adds to the cost. Justine suggested that a small van might be a cost effective investment. There is a lot to be done here and as usual funds are hard to come by. However, if a few young people can be given a chance to make a reasonable living then it will be well worthwhile.

I tried the latest fix for the computer and progress is being made! I can now open in Windows as far as the Desktop Background. However icons and toolbars there are none! However I am actually composing this in Open Office using Windows! I suspect that I will be able to open any Windows application using a rather convoluted method. If it works I will attempt to send this blog later using the modem – and might even add some photos!

I will run out before supper and buy some airtime.

Best wishes

Chris

A Trip to Pemba and Remembering Friends

2010-11-23T15:20:00.000Z

Saturday 20th November

I decided to go to mass at the chapel this morning.

November is a month when, in the Catholic Church, we remember those who have died. At the chapel we are invited to write the names of anyone that we would like to be specially remembered – particularly those who have died during the previous year.

Names are read out during mass and today Cathy Andrews was among them. Cathy was a good friend who supported myself and Dilys in a variety of ventures over many years. She was very interested in life in Monze and the people here. Unfortunately she died earlier this year before I had a chance to relate the details of my Easter visit. It seemed very fitting to remember her today, here among the people of Monze.

Just after 9hrs I set off for Pemba. Consultants were meant to call around to the flat to look at the crack in a wall so I left the keys with a neighbour.

I boarded a small minibus and there wasn't much delay before we got underway – though I think I was caught on the price! As we approached Pemba Police Checkpoint, the driver put on his blue shirt and buckled his seat belt. I have no doubt he was back to normal after he dropped us off. Jennipher met me close to the Post Office where the bus stopped. As we walked to her house several people greeted us. Just before we reached our destination Jennipher told me that one of the women who answered my greeting with kabotu (I'm fine) had recently had her house burnt down and lost all her possessions. Even the clothes she was wearing had to be provided by the support group – her food was also burnt in the fire. People often burn the land to prepare for planting the new crop, and sometimes the flames get out of hand resulting in devastating consequences. Very few people in Zambia will have any insurance against such incidents and therefore can be literally left with nothing. At least her small child was rescued before it could come to any harm - though it was left naked.

A group was waiting to greet me. They have been provided with some land on which to grow some maize – their need was some seed and fertilizer. Like most places in Zambia the quality of the soil is very poor – this is blamed on the constant use of fertilizer. I am not sure of the processes, but it does seem to me that there is a vested interest in ensuring that, every year, farmers need to go back to buy more fertilizer. Some people are using the anthills which apparently provide much better and longer lasting nourishment to the soil. There are plenty about but I am told it takes a lot of labour to dig out the hills. (Those who have read my blogs before might remember that anthills here are often
5x5x5 – and that's metres!)

At the house I met Selina, Soloman, Mike, Anna and Margaret. Selina I have known since she was a very small child. Soloman too has been part of the family for some years and provides a lot of manpower to keep the family going. Mike is at home because he was ill a week or so back but he told me he was returning to school tomorrow. Mike is embarrassed sometimes at school because he hasn't any decent cothes to wear other than his uniform. Anna and Margaret's mother, Choolwe, died a couple of months ago. Margaret is 14 months old and was a bit uncertain about me when I arrived today, but we invented a game which amused her, and before I left she was happy to come to me and sit on my knee.

The major absentee was Sandra who is away at school. I understand that she will start grade 12 next year – the final year of Secondary school. Along with Selina, I have known Sandra for almost as long as I have known Jennipher. They are as close to family as I have in Zambia, and it is a joy to see them grow and develop. Sandra is quiet, but has taken on a lot of responsibility over the years – looking after Selina and doing much of the housework. I was delighted that Jennipher encouraged her to go to school and she is doing very well. Selina is now taken on many of the roles that Sandra used to have – looking after Margaret and doing household chores – though she cannot be more than 8 years old.

Emmanuel the other little one – not much more than one year old - is now staying with a relative in Lusaka. Emmanuel's mother died in the hospital soon after his birth, with no known relatives. So Jennipher took him in. However, after Choolwe died, Jennipher felt she couldn't look after two children so young and the relative offered to care for him.

On the way to her home Jennipher was telling me how many of her clients were dying too young. I remembered the children she has cared for over the years that are no longer with us. Osbert, Twambo, Chimunya and Raquel all died as children. As Jennipher says, even better transport enabling patients to get to hospital sooner, would save many lives. Jennipher would love to have a vehicle. In the past I have felt that a motorbike might be a practical solution, making it easier for her to visit clients in the more distant areas. I felt that a car or truck would cost too much to run. However, Jennipher pointed out today, that Soloman can drive and would use the vehicle to take passengers, when it was not needed for clients. This would provide an income to cover the maintenance and fuel costs – plus a bit to spare. I was told a good secondhand vehicle can be bought for 15 million kwacha (£2,000). There is no doubt that Jennipher would have been able to save some lives if she had a car, rather than a bike, when she met very ill patients.

Jennipher's bike is suffering from travelling very many miles over rough tracks. A number of repairs are needed before it can be used again – at the moment she is back to her old bike.

The major problem faced by Jennipher and her family is the difficulty in accessing clean water. For the past couple of years, Jennipher has enjoyed the luxury of mains water at (or just outside) her house for the first time in her life. About 5 months ago, the pump at the local water plant burnt out and they haven't yet found the resources to replace it. This means a 2 km trek to find water and then it isn't clean. A well that was built for Jennipher, in her garden, a few years ago was damaged and, after a recent inspection, it was decided that it would be too dangerous to repair.

I think we could do with a Secret Millionaire out here – there is no doubt we could find plenty of areas where she could make a huge difference to the lives of so many here. I find it very difficult, because however poor I think I am, in comparison to people here, I am hugely wealthy. (Though not for long, with my large list of friends.)

Jennipher is doing a wonderful job and I try to support her as best I can – but with 65 support groups that she has set up (and more, like Poliqueen, on the way!), plus the needs of her family, I must find additional support for her work back in the UK.

When I got back home the consultants had been and gone to get their tools. I logged on at the Internet café and found a message from F-prot about my computer problem – possibly a solution. As usual, I copied the message to read later. I picked up some dried kapenta and some beans for meals in the next few days and went to the market to stock up on chitenges. I was asked to bring some back for a friend at church and I need a couple for Ireen, so she can make some shirts. I now have plenty!!

The consultants were busy measuring everything when I returned. I thought that they were just investigating a crack in my bedroom wall but it appears the whole building is being checked out – including all my rooms. I am just praying that it will take 4 weeks or more before they can agree what is needed and start work.

I am realising that my new book is rather familiar. I just hope that my computer can be soon repaired because my reading material is becoming limited. The fixed computer would have a few games to keep me amused and allow me to relax a bit!

Bye for now

Chris

Mangoes, Stick Insects and a Return to the Police Station

2010-11-20T13:58:00.003Z

Friday 19th November

The rains have not yet come! By now this part of Zambia should be receiving regular rain and work should be well underway planting crops in the fields. Erratic weather has made maize production very precarious in recent years. The fear now is that when it rains it will be very heavy and cause flooding.

On Wednesday morning I spent a while with Vincent going through the basics of ACCESS – he was very quick to pick up the system. I am hopeful that he will be able to develop the system himself in future.

Wednesday afternoon I had an appointment with Fr Kenan at the Sacred Heart's church. I first met Fr. Kenan in 2007 in London, since when our paths have kept crossing here in Monze. We had a chance to talk a little about the growing partnership between the two church communities in Monze and Cheltenham. When asked about the areas where support was most needed, he told me that education was extremely important at all levels. At Primary (Basic) school some children's parents (or guardians) cannot afford to buy uniforms, shoes or even pens and pencils, so without a little support some children will not receive any education. At Secondary level there are fees to pay for lessons and additional fees for exams. In Monze there is little work available, so finishing school and passing grade 12 exams leaves someone far from securing a career. Some students benefit from vocational training such as that provided at Homecraft where I am staying. Here they learn something that can enabl them to develop a trade. College and University, for academically gifted students, will also give much better chance of a positive future, but, as I have found out, the costs are high. (Though not compared with UK costs – especially under the new government.)

There are no benefits available here for most of the elderly people. The church tries to provide a little food etc. when funds allow, but with church collections of about £10 a week there is not a lot to spare! So addition support here is also very valuable.

On Thursday Jennipher returned to take me back to the police station. She was a little late because the bus had been stopped by the police on the way. It appeared that the driver was not wearing the official blue shirt that all bus drivers here are required to wear. Anyway she arrived in time for us to meet the embryo Monze police support group, or Polqueen as it will probably be called.

It is very humbling to be invited to meet with a group of local people who are discussing some very personal issues. I always regard it as an honour and one that I must be careful to treat with the utmost respect.

The group consisted mainly of police officers and their wives. I was told that the police station has only one tap and that is outside in the grounds – this is used to supply the police officers and the prisoners. There are no HIV/AIDS testing and counselling facilities at the police station so officers and prisoners need to attend the hospital for testing, monitoring and obtaining their drugs. This is difficult because officers stand out and are noticed at the hospital clinic. Word of their status then gets around. This discourages them from attending. They also have to wait - perhaps the whole day – to be seen. They cannot do their work during this period. Some also felt they were treated very badly at the hospital (perhaps because of their profession). The prisoners need to be escorted, thus causing them embarrassment. It would therefore be very much better if a unit could be set up at the police station.

Many of the police officers have no knowledge about HIV/AIDS and the needs of those with the disease. This results in medicines not being made available on time, a lack of understanding of the need for food etc. (some prisoners are left days without receiving their drugs). I was told of one prisoner who kept collapsing after taking the drugs because he had insufficient food. One of the group's aims is to educate the officers to ensure that adequate care is provided to those on drugs.

Other issues raised were the problems of infected mothers being unable to afford the dried milk to feed their children. (Even officers can find the cost too much – especially if they have many other mouths to feed and school fees etc. to meet.) They also mentioned a desire to be in contact with an AIDS networking group where single people who are HIV+ can meet with others and perhaps marry.

The group would like to have the opportunity to generate a little income through chicken rearing, a piggery or some land. The group have ideas about a resource centre and other possibilities. It is clear that the group is very keen to be active and make a difference. No doubt they will be looking for sponsorship to get things moving. Some money they will raise themselves through sponsored walks etc.

Jennipher told the group a bit about her experience as a person with AIDS and explained the process for becoming registered as a support group and the benefits that resulted.

We returned with one of the police officers. She told us that when her first child was born she was unaware that she was infected. She breast fed the baby who contracted AIDS and died. With her next child she had to fight to be provided with dried milk – as a result she has a healthy child. She has also been bringing up a boy since he was about a year old. He is unaware that he has AIDS though he is on ARVS (Anti-retroviral drugs). When he is a little older she will have to explain that he contracted the disease from his mother. Such stories are far too common in Zambia.

I called at the hospital in the afternoon and spent a little time with Dr. Mvula who suggested I returned in the morning. He would speak to the managers about what I could usefully do at the hospital during this visit.

I called around at the chapel and stayed for mass at 17 hrs. On Wednesday there was a mass for deceased hospital workers. In previous years I have attended such masses, but somehow I felt that it was better to give it a miss this time. Perhaps it is because I don't feel part of the hospital in the same way as I did in previous years.

I went out to get some shopping and look at a possible shop with Diven. By the time I had prepared a salad for myself and had a shower I was too tired to tackle the computer, so I read for a while before turning in.

I apologise for the lack of photos. At the moment, I have no way of reducing the size of the photos and the Internet here would have difficulty uploading the full size files. I hope soon to sort this out and make up for lost time – in the meantime please bear with me. I have had what I suspect is a type of stick insect in my kitchen for the past few days. He (or maybe she) hardly seemed to move for days – but I think she is nocturnal because the other day she moved from the spot by the tea towel. Unfortunately I didn't notice her and she ended up being washed with my mug. This seems to have upset her and she is no longer to be seen – but I have a photo!

I have not kept you abreast of the mango situation! Since arriving in Zambia this year, mangoes have been available wherever I have been - this is unprecedented. Although it is sometimes possible to obtain mangoes in Lusaka at this time of year, it is usually not much before December that they appear in Monze. However, I can just walk a few metres into the edge of the market and mangoes are plentiful. So I am feasting! I will take a picture of a mango for those who have never seen a fresh mango. I slit the skin (at which point juice pours from the fruit) and it peels back easily, exposing the juicy flesh that surrounds the large stone. You always need a wash after proper mango eating! I will send the photo and try to stop drooling – I will attack another mango after writing this blog!

Today I had a useful meeting with Dr. Mvula and agreed to give a presentation to the management team, with perhaps a follow up meeting or two. On the way I bumped into Lashford – the builder who was involved with the ICU, extension of male and children's wards and PIZZ school – all of which were HATW projects in Monze ,where I have had some involvement. He told me that there hasn't been much work about this year, but he hopes it will pick up in the next month or two.

I called into a few hospital departments. I handed some donated glasses in at the eye clinic. Sometimes people send their 'cast-offs' and they are no more use here than in the UK – old computers often fall into this category. However, I was assured that the glasses were very welcome. Elderly people sometimes have cataract operations performed, but cannot afford to buy any glasses. I was told that the donated glasses would prevent them from falling down holes! I think perhaps it is another illustration of donors not understanding the world in which they are working. They will fund the 'glamorous' surgery, yet won't finish the job - ensuring the patient can see properly by supplying some decent glasses.

I called into the ART clinic and chatted to Mrs. Phiri. Last time we met she was due to go on maternity leave. She told me that the baby died at about 5 months old. I seem to recall that she has suffered several miscarriages, so this must have been a particularly terrible blow.

Ennis was in the hospital and said hallo. He has a new car and I met his wife for the first time. Ennis suffered an accident which left him paralysed. He is the only person I have met so far, whose firm has provided a modified vehicle for the former employee to drive.

A trip to Buntola gave me time to gather, and record, my thoughts as I sat in the shade waiting. Unfortunately the lad with the key to the gate wasn't about, so we walked back to the hospital and I returned home for lunch.

I am still awaiting the answers to my laptop problems and today, the Internet didn't provide them. On the way back from the café Marvel said hallo. He told me that he still remembered Karen and Arthur from the HATW group in 2003.

This evening I had problems loading Ubuntu – though I eventually succeeded.

I will sign off – and take a back-up before closing the computer.

Goodnight

Chris

And it was all Going so Well!

2010-11-17T12:10:00.001Z

Tuesday 16th November

I returned from Lusaka this evening and am writing this blog on a notebook given to me to pass on to someone here in Zambia.

I was feeling very proud of myself yesterday morning. I was very much in charge. The projects data had all been converted into thousands of records in my database Mrs. Sianga was very happy with her new laptop. Then it happened! I had just posted my blog when my ant-virus detected a virus and deleted some files. I then received a few error messages that I ignored, but found irritating. I decided to restart the computer and it went into a loop of starting and closing down before becoming in any way useful. I am told it is no longer necessary to have the installation or recovery disks to recover from a Windows system failure. If anyone out there knows how please could you tell me the secret!

So Monday didn't start well. With hehelp of Ubuntu I did what I should have done and produced a back-up copy of all the changes made since I left the UK and wrote a few letters to be sent by e-mail. Of course the modem does not support Ubuntu so my e-mail facility has also gone.

I remembered that I had an appointment with Charles at 10 hrs. He arrived by 10.30 and we headed for the project site about 15 km East of the town. A little maize has been started in the garden and some vegetables harvested. There have been some problems with insect attacks and insecticides have been used. Charles is learning about Conservation gardening and is gradually trying to introduce it in his projects. Natural remedies for insect problems are part of the plan but not yet being implemented.

We talked a little about Jatropha which Charles ad been encouraged to grow as a hedge, though animals stoped it from developing this year. Apparently he has been told that Jatropha destroys the soil and asked me what I thought. I said I would tend to trust the view of those teaching conservation farming - what did they think? They say it destroys the soil! Jatropha is grown for bio-fuel. I believe that bio-fuels are a means of allowing the 'developed countries' to do some creative accounting with carbon credits instead of reducing the amont of CO2 we throw into the atmosphere. Charles admitted that here in Zambia people are being thrown out of their homes so that Jatropha can be grown. Bio-fuels are no answer to Climate Change and if allowed to continue to develop will cause a lot more hunger in places like Zambia.

The ox-cart I bought for my father's second silver wedding anniversary is still going strong, though it will need new tyres soon and a bolt or too for the gate at the back.

We had a quick trip to the west before the taxi driver dropped me at Homecraft.

I decided to postpone an afternoon meeting till another day and instead did a little shopping, offloaded my last bottle ofoil of cloves and prepared for Lusaka.

I awoke at about 5.30 am and sorted myself out. I was surprised to find that by 6.20 am there were no buses outside Tooters. I don't think I have experienced this phenomenon before - except perhaps late at night. Occasionally things happen here on time - it appears that the 6 am buses leave at 6 am. When I enquired about the buses I gained another friend. Rasta said he worked at Tooters and had seen me sometimes having a meal with Diven and wasn't sure whether I was a doctor or a priest (or as it turns out neither of the above). He advised me against getting on a bus that had just come in because it would be rounding for a long time. (It isn't unusual to spend an hour or two waiting until the conductor had filled the bus - they don't leave until they are full. Under Rasta's guidance I caught a bus that left at about 6.50 am. I was at the CHAZ offices by 10 hrs and had left with all the documentation complete by 11.30 am. Immigration insist on a 'bank certified' cheque. As I haven't a account at a Zambian bank I leave it to CHAZ to sort it. However this process can take up to a week! I am hoping when the cheque arrives the man from CHAZ will beable to present the documents and get my receipt! A receipt here seems to be nearly as good as a permit.

I tried to send my mails but found the files had been corrupted. This did nothing to my general disquiet and anything to do with immigration doesn't help my stress levels.

Only on Saturday I was saying that when things start going wrong I often recognise the Lord at work. I suspect that i6.ts time for me to accept a little lesson in humility.

I met Best at lunchtime and we had a bite together. He has almost completed his course at college for a Diploma in Law. Best was sponsored in the last years at school by our parishioners in Cheltenham and has proved a very able and conscientious student. He has also done his best to contribute to his own costs by working during the holidays. He expects to have the opportunity to go on to University to study for a degree, however I can't see where the sponsorship will come from. He will need at least £2,000 a year for 3 or 4 years. (Although he has said that for £2,000 he could buy a car that afriend would use as a taxi. This would produce enough income to cover the costs of future years. This would only mean additional funding for one year and would save him the embarrassment of begging for funds. I have been struck by recent tales of two people faced with apparently impossible funding problems who have had the faith to say they would leave it to the Lord. I think perhaps I need to be the third! I am already frightened by how easily money is vanishing here!

I was expecting to meet with Justina but it wasn't to be, so Best directed me to the Inter City bus station and I caught Booker's Express which dropped me at The Golden Pillow at 18hrs.

I will try to send this tomorrow somehow.

Chris

An Epidemic of Toothache

2010-11-15T06:25:00.000Z

Sunday 14th December

I suspect that there is a strange law of Physics that makes time go faster in Zambia! I seem to get up, do one or two small things and find it is already after midnight!

The toothache epidemic has continued! I gave away the third bottle of oil of cloves today and have promised my last to another friend with the affliction. I was told today that the price for extracting a tooth has risen from 13,000 to 50,000 kwacha (about £7). My friend said she couldn't find that sort of money. Funding issues at the hospital have led them to increase prices. As always, the poorest suffer most – though, in Monze, the majority would find it difficult to afford a tooth extraction. I suspect this has a lot to do with the huge demand for my magic bottles.

So what was I up to on Friday? - The background work at the moment is the projects database for Monze Diocese. This allows me to be usefully occupied when I am not meeting someone in relation to one of my many other projects. Mrs. Sianga came around in the morning and we talked a little about how the school and her other activities were progressing. She has been receiving some funding over the years to provide supplementary feeding for 240 children – some of whom attend government schools. Unfortunately the main donor has not provided any funds since July – though she is hopeful that they will resume. The result is the many of the children are no longer at school, instead they are moving around the streets trying to sell small items to provide a little income for food.

I showed Mrs. Sianga her laptop, with Internet connection and webcam. She seemed very pleased. She should no longer need to pay someone to type examination papers etc. in itself this will be will be useful. We agreed to get together to go into more detail about the accounts system (when I have devised it!) and other uses for the computer.

I then rushed around to the hospital to try a couple of things to fix the computer in the Cervical Cancer Unit. Fortunately by using Micro$oft's system restore feature I was able to fix the fault. I have to admit that XP has one or two useful features, much as I hate to praise Micro$oft for anything!

Judy had my letter ready. This states that I am still required by the hospital and endorses my application to renew my Work Permit. I therefore rang my friend at CHAZ to arrange an appointment in Lusaka to get things moving at Immigration.

After lunch I had a little while to make progress with my background task. I have promised to have all the data converted and imported for use in the new database by Monday morning so I need to get moving.

After lunch Luke came around to bring me up to date with the past 6 months from his perspective. He told me that it had been a tough year for him. He had struggled to cover fees for his course. Luke was to be sponsored for a course in Personnel Management by the hospital, but they failed to get enough funding and pulled out at the last minute. He decided to take unpaid leave and study at home – just entering the examinations. He has managed for about 1 ½ years and will sit the final exams in June. His biggest issue however was that his sister died a couple of month's back. Her husband died in 2007, so she has left 3 orphaned children to be looked after by the family. The sister had not been looking after the children for some time and the family had lost touch for a while. When she was found there was nothing that could be done to restore her to health. There are so many heart-rending stories I hear from friends in Monze. So much relates to poverty, but in ways that I would not have previously imagined. There is virtually no welfare state here. If you lose a husband, who has provided the household income, you can be suddenly left with nothing and an immediate need to earn money – just to stay alive. This is at a time of great distress following a bereavement. Some fare better than others. No job = no food!

Teddy arrived while Luke was still around. Since both work at the hospital they know each other well. Teddy had brought me some software for one of the projects.

Having good friends here in Monze is very useful. I am able to get a good picture of how things really are in town and around, what the main issues are, and what the general view is of local happenings. Being involved in a wide variety of projects myself , I find it useful to pick up the local gossip! Though here is not the place to divulge it!

I think it was about 8 pm when Teddy left, so after cooking a quick meal and doing a bit more work another day had well passed!

Saturday morning was the start of another working day. Diven came around at about lunchtime and helped me attack a large loaf I had bought. On the way to see Charles I passed by a shop Diven has his eye on, and his small house where his stock from his previous shop – now converted into bags of sugar – is stored.

As usual I spent a long time talking to Charles about a very wide variety of things. He told me about his experiences with other Europeans and NGOs (Non-government organisations – charities and the like). His experience was that they tended to want to run the projects and set detailed instructions. One example he cited was a large (and very well known) organisation that wanted to increase the cattle stock in the Southern Province of Zambia. Unfortunately, following their instructions for managing the cattle, the mortality rate became extremely high. Here in Southern Province the Tonga people have reared cattle for very many generations. The people know the land, the conditions and the best way to look after their animals. It was only after respecting the knowledge and skills of the local people and trusting them to look after the cattle without interference that the project started to bear fruit.

I suggested that the problem is that the Europeans and Zambians speak a different language. Unfortunately most people don't realise it, because often the words used are the same! Communication requires so much more than words. Perfect communication requires a full understanding of the other person, and the reality is that however hard we listen there will always be a gap. In the end the gap can only be bridged with respect and trust.

It was dark before I left Charles.

Today has also had to include some work. Mass wasn't until 10 hrs so I could fit an hour in beforehand. I left home at about 9.30 for the 2 km walk. Another friend from the hospital greeted me en-route but instead of the customary response “I'm fine” said he too was in great pain from his tooth. I promised him a bottle on Monday!

I arrived at the church at 9.55 and met up with some of the members of St. Veronica's Small Christian Community under a small tree, which gave little shelter from the sun.

Sorry I have just been diverted by a clicking or clucking sound and decided to investigate. Of course when I followed the sound and put on lights, it stopped! However, I think I have found the source. There are always a few friendly creatures that keep me company at home. These seem to be well adapted to live indoors. A few spiders, a couple of small lizards and small frogs. This sound was coming from the bathroom and there on the windowsill was one of my small frogs with it little lungs blown up ready to explode. The rainy season is overdue and the frogs are preparing for a very busy few weeks! Anyway now I can recognise the croak of the local house frog!

Returning to Our Lady of the Wayside church. The children's mass was still in progress when I arrived, so our service started at about 10.30. The singing at 'Our Lady's' really is wonderful. The choir led the congregation in unaccompanied harmonies that echoed throughout the church, before the drums took up the rhythm. I was relieved that the priest didn't introduce me to the congregation at the start of mass. Despite the mass here officially starting an hour and a half earlier than that at St. Gregory's - my church in Cheltenham, I suspect that, finishing at 1 pm, the service here was still underway after that back home had finished! I like to think that our service here enfolds that in Cheltenham.

The notices were given at the end of mass and I was breathing another sigh of relief, when the priest mentioned something about a Chris Barrell! He then asked me to come up the long aisle up to the front of the church. He greeted me and told the congregation that I was here as a representative from St. Gregory's parish in Cheltenham and when they greeted me they were greeting all the parishioners from St. Gregory's. I was then asked to greet the people and did so bringing special greetings from my parish in Cheltenham which has adopted Our Lady of the Wayside as a project. I am hoping to build a greater awareness of each others customs and ways of life over the coming year. I hope that we will be able to arrange for a greater interaction between the parishioners and thereby develop greater understanding. Despite being put on the spot – once again! - it was good to be welcomed in this way, and it was useful to ensure that all in the congregation understood the developing partnership. (A word introduced by the priest) Fortunately my words were translated because, apart from mwalevia buti (good afternoon), my words were in English.

I had 10 minutes to freshen up and have lunch before setting out for the meeting with St. Veronica's Small Christian Community. I was late and missed my guide, but met his wife – who had toothache!

Our 2pm meeting started at 3.30pm. We were reflecting on next weeks feast of Christ the King. The reading is about the crucifixion of Jesus. Not perhaps the obvious reading for a king! However it was the Roman Governor Pontius Pilate who insisted on the inscription over the cross reading “The King Of the Jews”. However what struck me was the act of faith of one of the 'criminals' crucified with Jesus. Many of Jesus's disciples had deserted him, yet this man, who was in the process of dying, recognised him as God when he said “remember me when you get to your kingdom” (obviously not an earthly kingdom since both would soon be dead.) However great the language gap between Europeans and Zambians, it is nothing compared between that of humankind and God. Occasionally, when we meet, we see a little deeper into the real person, trust bridges the gap and the results can be wonderful! (Luke chapter 23 verse 43 gives the punchline!)

After our meeting I rushed back to pick up a bottle for Simon's wife adding another couple of miles to today's travels!

Chris

A Short Spell in Prison

2010-11-11T20:11:00.001Z

Thursday 11th November

Most of today has been spent converting a few spreadsheets into ACCESS tables – I think I counted 62! That is a start – however I have a long way to go before the data is ready for me to use – perhaps 20 – 30 hours was correct! Sorry about the computer speak!

Another lie in today – even though I had an early night (about 23hrs). So after arising a bit before 7 a.m and enjoying a bowl of cornflakes, I set about rinsing my clothes and hanging them on the line I bought yesterday. Washing machines are uncommon here, so like most other people I use a bowl and some Boom – which is a detergent paste.

At about 11 am I was taken to the police station for an hour or so.

Perhaps I should explain that Jennipher recognised the need of prisoners who were HIV+ to be supported. She is therefore in the process of setting up an HIV/AIDS support group at the prison and she thought it would be good for me to become involved.

Prison in Zambia is not a place where you would want to be! Cells are quite large – at least this is the case at Monze – but each can hold perhaps 20 or more prisoners. At Monze prison there is just a concrete floor for the men to sleep on. They rely on relatives to provide them with food and if they have no relatives they rely on persuading others to share there food – and naturally it isn't without a cost.

For prisoners with AIDS the issues are many. The drugs can be harmful without food. The people need to take the drugs regularly – so drugs must be accessible etc. There is also the need for the men and women to understand the way that AIDS is spread. People who have spent time in prison often spread AIDS both inside prison and when they return to their communities.

Jennipher wants to try to educate both the police officers and the prisoners, and hopes to be able to provide food for those without relatives. They also hope to provide testing and counselling services. In this project Jennipher is working closely with the Victim Support Office within the prison. This team deals with all the abuse cases in addition to other issues.

Unfortunately, because Jennipher needed to look after Mike last night and this morning, we were late for our appointment – Mike is much better today and is able to stay at home in Pemba. The ladies who are intending to prepare meals had left to feed their husbands!

I did meet the Victim Support Tam and one of the police officers involved in the project. I was careful to stress that they mustn't expect me to be able to provide funds, however I was willing to tell people about the problems faced by the prisoners. I hope that eventually I will find a few people in the UK willing to become involved in Jenniphers work. As long as I continue to come out to Zambia I can provide a direct link, providing feedback to all concerned.

Today I was able to provide some funds for 15 of Jennipher's most vulnerable clients. This will provide some extra food and some seed, for those fit enough to plant it (with extra energy from the food). Fortunately when I am in England I am often given money to use here. So this particular donation will be well spent and I can provide feedback for the donor. Last year I was able to do the same for a small number of clients. Most of them are now doing OK – without that little extra, at a critical point, the outcome could have been different. I can't emphasise too much what a difference can be made by what seems to us to be so little.

I met briefly with Mrs. Sianga who, after several hours waiting, told me she was no 6 in the queue at the bank. (someone was guarding her spot) Fortunately there wasn't a queue at the ATM so, between us, the teachers will be paid and the equipment needed for the exams can be purchased.

At about 4 pm I headed for the Hospital. Outside I met Chriscola who was the first at the hospital to give me a big hug on Tuesday. Yesterday she told me she was suffering with her tooth – so I brought some oil of cloves in today, together with a few cotton buds. A few years ago I needed some work done on my tooth, but didn't have time before I left the UK. The dentist told me to take oil of cloves with me and, if it caused problems, the treatment would sort it out until I returned – in three months! Fortunately I didn't need to use it, but I came across a friend who did! I am told it works very well. Chriscola was the second person to get a magic bottle since I arrived in Monze on Monday evening! I was met on Tuesday by Robert who was in a lot of pain and had been told to see me by Jennipher who knows that I usually have a bottle or three – though rarely enough!

Dental treatment here usually means an extraction – if you can afford it!

I went to mass at 17 hrs to find that mass at the chapel was at 7hrs today. Fr Rogers apologised and gave communion to myself and the two nuns who also turned up for mass.

I made appointments with three people for 18hrs this evening. I didn't really expect everyone to turn up – and if they did it would be chance if they arrived at the same time. In the event only Reymond came around – at about 19.30. We caught up a little and I showed him photos of Dilys' birthday celebration in July when all our children and grandchildren were present – including our 'Burmese son', Fr. Tino.

I expect another relaxing day tomorrow when no doubt I will again put my feet up and soak up the sun by the pool – perhaps in my dreams!

With love and prayers

Chris

The real work begins

2010-11-10T19:13:00.002Z

Wednesday 10th November

I wasn't wrong about a bit of work coming my way!!

I met with Mrs. Sianga at PIZZ school at 9hrs – after another very late night, I slept in until after 7 hrs this morning! The grade 9 students are sitting their examinations next week. I was invited to meet them and say a few words. I greeted them, talked about the English weather and wished them good luck with their exams. Afterwards 6 students were chosen to talk to me a little about how being at the school had helped them. I also asked them what they would like to do given the opportunity. It was difficult for them being put on the spot, but I tried to put them at their ease and listened to what they had to say – Cleemore, a boy of 15, told me that without the school some of them would be out on the streets. He was pleased that they had uniforms and even got breakfast. It is very humbling to be thanked for such simple things. I hope that we are able to help more children like Cleemore and somehow ensure that he and his friends never have to go back to the streets. One of the teachers told me that the growing number of street children in Monze is becoming a major problem.

After having an enjoyable chat with the students, I next had a meeting with four of the teachers – the Headteacher and School Director (Mrs. Sianga) were also present. It proved a very useful discussion that enabled us to get to know each other better. As I repeat endlessly, building relationships is everything. The teachers here have a difficult time. Many have been waiting for a government job for years, after completing their training. PIZZ school takes the most disadvantaged children – so they cannot afford fees. The teachers inevitably are paid a lot less than they would get from the government, so they at least need to know that they are valued and that they are making a positive contribution to the lives of the students and their families. Hands Around the World, who I represent here, have recently introduced a sponsorship scheme that helps with some of that funding and allows the sponsor from the UK to receive feedback on one of the students. (You can find more on the website www.hatw.org.uk )

Jennipher was in town again today. She had received a message that one of her children – Mike – had collapsed at school. She was on her way to Namala, where he boards, to collect him and take him back to Pemba – a round trip of a hundred miles or so. She was meant to meet me tomorrow for another small project, but we will need to see how Mike is.

After lunch I met with Vincent to talk about the Diocesan projects. He has done a lot of work analysing details of a questionnaire using spreadsheets. It is clear he has a very good understanding of the capabilities of Excel and has done a good job. I think that the most useful thing for me to do is to give him some training on designing ACCESS databases. I think he will pick it up quickly and all being well he won't need me after I leave! It is always much better if you can pass on skills rather than provide services. When problems arise it is very difficult to sort them from the UK, if local people have the skills they can resolve problems and develop solutions themselves. I will import all the base data from the spreadsheets which is only 20 – 30 hours work!! (Let's hope I can reduce that!), do a few days training, work with Vincent to develop a few reports and put my feet up on Friday afternoon!!

Next stop Dr. Mvula! Fortunately he was still in his meeting and not likely to emerge any time soon, so those bits of shopping I hadn't got around to – including the umbrella – were fitted in. Of course I greeted a great number of friends around town, including, Patrick, Mr. Chiiya, Bimbi, Fr. Kenan and Marvel. Marvel was one of the many I didn't recognise. He reminded me that we moulded bricks together in 2003 on my first visit to Monze. He was driving past and had a young lad in the front seat with him. He told me it wasn't his son but he now had a daughter the same age. In Zambia, having a driving licence means you are doing better than most – if you can afford fuel for the car you really are doing well! (By the way, a litre of petrol is just under £1 at the moment and the most Zambians earn less than £1 in a day.)

I am easing myself back into cooking – Dilys has been looking after me recently at home. Supper this evening was a sausage stir-fry with onions, spring onions, carrot, sweet pepper, green beans and aubergine, together with a helping of rice. (I have no problem with my five a day – in fact I am probably overdosing on fruit and vegetables – just wait till the mangoes on the tree outside become ripe!!)

Tonight I need an early night and I have said more than enough for today!!

Bye

Chris

A Day in Lusaka

2010-11-09T22:14:00.002Z

Tuesday 9th November

I am now settled in Monze in very familiar surroundings.

Yesterday I had intended getting a bus from Lusaka, where Justine had agreed to take me. However, Justine's brother-in-law, Monti, was travelling to Choma and subsequently to Livingstone, therefore travelling through Monze. He offered to take me from Lusaka if I could wait in the city until 12 hrs. Being no more than a couple hours after I could leave anyway – and knowing that the journey would be quicker by car, I readily agreed. At 12 hrs Monti was held up waiting for money from the bank. We met at 14hrs but he was still at the bank. We put my bags into his vehicle and Justine dropped me at Downtown where I agreed to wait. At 15 hrs Monti rang to say he was in a meeting but would see me soon. At 16 hrs he arrived, having spent a long time in the Lusaka traffic jams. We set off to pick up his colleague who was staying close by. Earlier this year there was terrible flooding in Lusaka – so a major drainage system is being installed. As a result the former route to the colleagues house was completely cut off by a long and very large ditch and some big pipes. Having spent ¾ hour - along with a hundred other vehicles – finding no way through, we joined the traffic jam back into town – the only possible route left. It was therefore some time after 18hrs that we finally headed out of Lusaka and headed for Monze.

Our time in Lusaka wasn't entirely wasted. Justine bought a wheel bearing for his car, picked up forms for registering Kaliyangile and found out more about the process involved. I bought a USB modem to go with this laptop, which will allow me to post this blog from my flat here in Monze. While waiting at the Downtown shopping centre I happened to meet Fr. Maambo, who now has a parish outside of Monze and separately came across Sr. Gertrude, now at a convent in Mazabuka.

We travelled well, though we met several broken down trucks en-route. Travelling on Zambian roads at night is especially treacherous. There are many people walking at the side of the road and people riding bikes without any lights – and this along totally unlit roads. Is was a broken down truck that caused my friend Bentoe to lose his life in 2006, along with Rose - both of them were managers at Monze Mission Hospital. Their vehicle didn't have time to stop and hit the truck while still travelling at speed.

At about 21 hrs I arrived at my flat! The flat is part of a complex of buildings owned by the Catholic Diocese of Monze used for a youth training project and also housing offices for the Diocesan Projects Management Team. I will be doing a little work for the team as one of my little sidelines!

It was good to walk into familiar and comforting surroundings. The flat has all I need – a bedroom, lounge, kitchen and bathroom, with electricity and even a warm shower!

I went straight over to Tooters where I met Diven and had a meal and a drink. Mr. Longu – a driver from the hospital, currently working nights, greeted me and welcomed me back to Monze. I attacked the Internet when I got back to the flat. It was well after midnight when I turned in.

Last night there was a decent amount of rain. It was overcast first thing this morning – though the sun soon burnt it's way through. I popped down the corridor outside my flat to the offices and said a quick hallo to Sr. Barbara, the Admin Manager, and Soloman Phiri, the Projects Manager and CAFOD partner. I also arranged to meet later with the Accountant to discuss the database I was developing. (I have to admit that I was disappointed that he hadn't seen the CD I sent from the UK with the new database – though I knew it had arrived.)

Jennipher came around some time after 10hrs and we caught up on a few things. I had brought over a solar powered (and wind-up) radio donated by a friend. Jennipher had asked for radios for her groups. She explained that the radios would bring a variety of benefits. Firstly they allowed people to keep in touch with world events, she also explained that clients need to take medicines at regular times and that many have no wristwatch – so the radio would help them to know the time. Some of her clients apparently walk quite a long way at night to check the time with a friend. (I showed her that the radio provided also had a clock which went on when the radio was turned off.), thirdly there are educational programmes available on the radio – in particular a local radio station (Radio Chikuni) provides a series of primary school lessons. Children who do not attend school will gather around the radio to learn. There are no doubt other valuable ways the radios will be used - I only wished I could have brought more. If you would like to help to Jennipher's AIDS support groups by providing solar radios or provide other support please let me know.

I had banana sandwiches with Jennipher for lunch. After lunch I was on my way down the corridor to meet with the Accountant when I noticed another office where a familiar face greeted me. Vincent was very keen to work with me on the database and was aware of my CD etc. Not for the first time I had failed to recognise a face – the Accountant is not involved in what I am doing and was therefore understandably vague! I sorted out a new appointment and apologised to the Accountant for my mistake!

Having a free afternoon I headed for the hospital. As usual I was greeted by many even before reaching the gates. My memory for names is getting very bad – I keep going blank, even with people I know well. Some of those I did remember include Motty, Judy, Dr. Mvula, Robert, Ian and Fr. Rogers. I received very warm greetings from all and hugs from many – including some of the men!

Eventually I found Teddy and spent some time catching up. I have known Teddy since 2004 and we have worked closely since the death of Bentoe, who was also a very close friend of Teddy.

I attended mass at the Hospital Chapel before heading back. At the exit to the hospital Ireen spotted me and threw her arms around me. Ireen is my tailor – some of you might have admired some of the lovely shirts she has made me over the years. She walked back towards my flat with me and asked what I had brought her. This is a common greeting from friends here. I usually tell them I bring greetings from the UK and they accept it with a smile! Ireen said that I could buy her a chicken as “relish”! (relish is any food eaten with nshima) I don't usually cave in, but Ireen is a good friend and gives me the warmest greeting of anyone, so she chose a chicken from the seller who operates just outside the gates of the diocesan compound.

The market starts outside the gates so it isn't difficult for me to pick up some provisions. So I stocked up for my evening meal and grabbed a few more vegetables. I had a number of admiring comments from people surprised that I eat mussela – a local root vegetable.

On my return to my flat I noticed more than usual flies, these seemed familiar to me. Of course – flying ants! - or inswa. These fly in huge numbers at the start of the rains. I will expect to be treated to a bowlful of these creatures soon – fried and salted of course! Just don't think too much as you eat them!!

Diven joined me again this evening and shared my quick meal of scrambled eggs with fried rice, onion and tomato. Reymond called around but didn't come in as I already had a guest. He will call again tomorrow.

I have three appointments made for tomorrow, so I will be busy tomorrow and they might confirm that I will be exceptionally busy over the next few weeks.

Bye for now

Chris

A Wonderful Day

2010-11-08T21:56:00.000Z

Sunday 7th November

Today has been a very good day. I am now really in Zambia!

On Thursday Justine took the beef – so I enjoyed the chicken. The menu since has, as expected, been the same – except that the beef has been taken off the menu!

I didn't have the best sleep on Thursday night, but on the Friday I was a bit less tired. In reality it takes a little while to fully adapt to all the changes – how people whizz around the world hitting the ground running, wherever they land I am not sure. Though no doubt first class travel and a good rest on the flight must help.

I spent most of the day on Friday at the Centre re-acquainting myself with the accounts database that needed to be restored, talking to Justine about progress during the past six months and the plans for the future. I also inspected some of the damage caused by a fire a month or so back. A neighbouring farmer was burning the stubble on his farm on a windy day and the fire jumped the windbreak into Kaliyangile. It went through the gardens burning the crops and burnt a structure next to the 'flat' I occupied last year. The wooden poles are standing but have been too badly burnt to be re-used. The building contained feed for the cattle, which was also destroyed. The following day Davidson went to have a bath only to remember that his bathroom was another casualty of the fire.

In the evening, after my meal, I avoided the bar and returned to my room. I had borrowed the Centre USB modem (or dongle), so, since this time I have a power socket in my room, I was able to post my previous blogs and check my e-mails without having to move.

I awoke as the sun burnt it's way through the curtains just after 6 hrs. A breakfast of 3 fried eggs, salad, chips and bread is really enough to keep me going all day! I went to the Centre in the morning.

I have decided to make my way to Monze on Monday, so we needed to go through a few things over the weekend. In general I like to keep weekends free – particularly Sundays - but I don't want to delay getting things moving in Monze. Once I have started all the plates spinning, I will have no difficulty keeping busy ensuring none smash! But, if you are aware of the analogy, it often takes a while before the plates all get going – and I have a lot of plates to spin!!

I had seen a notice announcing a Brai (i.e. barbecue) at Fringilla run by the Holy Cross Catholic Church here in Chisamba. Justine had been asked by Fr. Dominic if he would be supporting the event. He was inclined to go but hadn't enough fuel for the journey. I said that I would be happy to attend and could contribute towards the petrol. So a little before 13 hrs we set off for Fringilla - for the first time since I arrived in Chisamba I saw some pale faces as we arrived at Fringilla Guest House.

The first time I came to Chisamba without a 'chauffeur', Mrs. Sianga and myself overshot the Chisamba cross-roads and when we asked to be shown to the guest house were taken to Fringilla. We were a little surprised and thought our luck was in! Fringilla is a very pleasant lodge with 4 star amenities (but with prices to match - though perhaps not UK prices). Needless to say Chisamba Guest House is a little more basic but it is 25 km closer to the Centre – and also closer to the budget!

Once again Fringilla Guest House was not our intended destination – as we realised when handed the menus for the Brai, with the accompanying prices. Eventually we found Fringilla camp site were the entertainment was getting underway – and yes, other than myself, everyone was a person of deep colour!

The MC announced that since it was a Catholic event, as well as the soft drinks, Mosi, Castle, wine and even whisky would be available!

For the first couple of hours the MC / DJ had the children entertaining us with a dancing competition. I remember how scandalised some people were by Elvis Presley's hip movements in the 60's, well some of the three year old children performing on Saturday could have taught him a thing or two. Those who have experienced the dancing in Africa will know what I mean!

We then had a group called Fanwell who classified themselves as Gospel singers. They were OK but I must confess to finding it difficult to understand how waving my hands, or shouting Alleluia, proved that God was the most important thing in my life (even though it is.).

After more dancing another group hit the stage. In fact they jumped on to the lorry trailer that formed the stage and did there best to get it moving out of the field. At one point some speakers on the 'stage' were moved to the floor because that's were they were heading as Mazeteti dancing and jumped with gusto. Soon members of the audience joined them on stage which didn't phase them in the least – in fact they were warmly welcomed. A couple of the guys jumped off the stage and soon were surrounded by children wanting to get in on the act. So the performer arranged the children in a circle and led them in an array of different dances. He obviously enjoyed the experience as much as the children who followed his moves circling with tremendous enthusiasm, joy and skill.

It was clear to me that God and Mazeteti were friends by the way they related to all around them – somehow they didn't have to wave there hands or sing alleluia to prove it.

At about 18.30, when it is dark here – despite being the equivalent of the height of summer – we headed back to the car. We called at the petrol station for a bit more fuel and then returned to the campsite to pick up the young lad we forget when we left earlier!

I didn't need an evening meal, but I had a refreshing 'bath' and popped in to the bar to pick up some water. While there a guy switched from the state controlled channel, which shows what Rupiah Banda, the President, has been doing during the day to Strictly Come Dancing! I quickly left, having explained that I had travelled 5,000 miles to get away from Strictly Come Dancing! I also did a little work sorting out a few issues with the accounts system before picking up on John Grisham and turning in before 23hrs.

So to today! I slept well and again awoke to the bright African sun. Mass was at 8hrs so there was no time for breakfast. At the beginning of mass Fr. Dominic spotted me – he must have keen eyesight to pick me out of all the other parishioners! So I was introduced once again to the people of the Holy Cross church. I was grateful that yesterday I wasn't selected to speak to the crowd from the mike! It reminds me of similar issues we had when my wife and I visited Burma a few years back – it is sometimes very difficult to fade into the background.

I again enjoyed the singing and dancing that is so much a part of Christian celebration (as well as life in general) here in Zambia. Fr. Dominic explained for his 'friend from Kaliyangile' that the choir were going to sing a song which said “we believe in heaven”, which was the theme of the gospel. When I think sometimes what we as Christians profess to believe it is staggering! Our belief in a life after death is one of these mind blowing concepts. Still some scientists apparently believe that the universe came into being out of nothing, without any force present to facilitate the change – personally I am more inclined to believe in Heaven! I was interested that Fr. Dominic talked about metamorphosis in relation to the idea of heaven (I am not sure whether it is the same word in Nyanja, he spoke in at least two languages during the sermon). He talked of a caterpillar turning into a butterfly – one apparently dying in order for the other to live a more wonderful existence.

In the Gospel Jesus tries to explain that after death we will be different beings – as the angels. I think so often we make the mistake of thinking of God as a human being and life after death as a continuation of life here on earth. We can be sure that the difference between the caterpillar and the butterfly is nothing compared with what we can expect and that nothing can prepare us to understand the mind of God.

At the end of mass I thought I was in the clear, but, when the notices began, the man from Kaliyangile was asked to stand up to receive the applause of the assembled congregation – which he did as graciously as he could!

Outside the church I was greeted by a number of the parishioners including Fr. Dominic. The children came to shake my hand and give me high fives. As I left the church I felt like the Pied Piper, as a group of children trailed behind me. They accompanied me back to the guest house before waving a cheery goodbye before going on their way.

I intended to have a rest so I lay on the bed and read a little. I then decided that I really needed a walk. I was getting a little hungry, having still not eaten since supper, so, as I passed along the road, I picked up a few bits for lunch.

I have been disappointed that Chisamba seems to provide little scope for walks in the bush. I had seen a track the other day but on reflection thought that I had tested it on another occasion and found it just led to a local house. I headed towards the track but before the railway line came across another. As tracks go here, it was quite substantial. I headed along and was pleased to see a few houses to my right and very little fencing - suggesting that I was unlikely to be on private land. I passed a large tree full of birdsong and headed for another which was probably ¾ kilometre from the main road. The track continued but I settled under the tree. The other waitress at the guest house (not Citride) was excited when she saw my John Grisham novel – apparently she loves to read them. So I need to finish it before I leave tomorrow morning. I decided that under a tree away from anyone was the place to do some serious reading! Here in Zambia I am glad of a bit of shade when I can find it – in the UK the sun is so scarce, and rarely too hot, that I don't like to waste the opportunity to greet it wholeheartedly.

So I began with my feast. Two boiled eggs, four bananas, a packet of freshly roasted and salted peanuts and the crowning glory - my first mango of the year! Everything here seems to taste a bit better than in England. The eggs are different sizes and colours – one of those I bought was pleasantly spotted, each comes with a small packet of salt wrapped in plastic – reminding me of Smiths Crisps in the 50s! The bananas have probably been picked in the past few days and are full of flavour, the peanuts are again grown locally and come in light plastic bags – thinner than cling film and sealed at each end. Then there are the mangos!!!! Anyone who knows me well or has followed my blog before knows how I feel about fresh mangos. I had a text from Fr. Kenan in Monze a couple of days ago asking me to ring as soon as I touched down because he has mangoes ready for me! It is early in the season and mangos seem only to be available in Lusaka at this time. The seller told me that she paid 500 kwacha for the big ones in Lusaka and was selling them for 1,000 kwacha here! (about 13p). I did some friendly haggling over the price – since the child next to her had offered the same mango at 500 kwacha, but was more than happy to pay 1,000 kwacha for my first mango.

I am fortunate that the laptop runs off a battery – unfortunately all the flies are now attracted to the screen – since the power has just gone off and my screen is the only source of light in the room.

Sorry where was I? Oh yes waxing lyrical over my mango. Yes it was a good introduction to 2010 mango eating – it wasn't the juiciest fruit I have eaten, but still beyond comparison with what claim to be mangoes in the UK.

A walk in the bush, a mango feast and a few chapters under the shade of a beautiful tree, filled with glorious birdsong – there definitely is a heaven, and I suspect it might be here in Zambia. I have now arrived!

Each visit to Zambia seems to highlight a different part of nature. I am struck this year by the vast assortment of jumping creatures. No kangaroos, but grasshoppers that start at the size of those found in the UK and extend to some perhaps 10 cm (4 inches) long. They are of various colours. Most look drab on the ground but some look like butterflies when they jump and fly over distances of 30 metres or more.

The weather here is getting warmer – sitting under my tree, I sometimes thought that I was no longer in the shade – only to realise that the heat came purely from the air. When I arrived back I decided to throw some cold water over me – only to find that the tap was only providing hot water today!

Today I was re-acquainted with the mini-tornados that occur regularly here. They rarely come to anything and usually are much less than a metre in diameter and no more than a couple high. We did have some wind this evening at the guest house – on one occasion I suspect it was a slightly larger tornado, these pick up the local rubbish and spin it 20 or 30 metres into the sky. These, though more powerful, seem also to pass without any substantial damage being done.

This afternoon I had another session with Justine for a couple of hours before returning to write this blog. My regular readers know I can go on a bit – for any newcomers I hope you will bear with me!

Chris.

A Warm Welcome

2010-11-05T13:54:00.001Z

Thursday 4th November

It is always rather unreal when I find myself once again in Africa. The swifts and swallows have beaten me down here, crickets, grasshoppers or locusts jump or fly out of my way as I wander along the paths. Yesterday I watched as numerous Red Kites flew above the M40 – today other varieties of birds of prey fill the skies.

The welcome in Zambia is always warm. I am surprised after landing when airport staff greet me as they pass by – still I have hardly slept during the night and anyway breakfast was at 3.30 GMT so I am even more dopey than usual .

We land at 6.30 local time as scheduled. The sun has recently risen and the temperature is a pleasant 22ºC in the shade.

I had told Justine not to bother about getting to the airport for when I land, so I took out some money and sorted out my mobile phone. I am pleased to find out that I can use the SIM cards from last time – therefore not having to give my friends a new number. I wonder how long it will be before I am tracked down! From my experience, I am sure that it won't be long.

Justine arrived at about 7.45 not long after I settled down for a cup of tea in the airport 'lounge and cocktail bar'.

He brought me straight to Kaliyangile to say hallo and then I returned to Chisamba Guest House for a rest.

I felt a little more human after a couple of hours and a cold water bath. A quick wander through town to settle in a little and I walked to Kaliyangile to find out the state of play with the project and plan my involvement over the next few days and weeks.

On returning to the guest house this afternoon, I decided I shouldn't put off my first Mosi any longer. I settled down to read my John Grisham novel and was soon joined by one of the local guys. We talked about the project, Zambia, politics, bereavement and a range of other subjects in the course of an hour or two. It is always interesting to hear the views of the local people who usually have interesting insights in a variety of fields. Staying at the Guest House makes me aware how important it is that the Kaliyangile project is seen as a community project and not one that is seen as run by others. The people I meet are very supportive and I think people will become more involved as the Centre develops.

It is now dark! There is very little twilight here, day becomes night very quickly. This is accentuated by the relatively low level of lighting in the streets after dark.

Supper will be nshima chicken or nshima beef tonight ( and every other night!) - I have ordered one of each and will let Justine choose!

As you might have noticed my last blog didn't get posted at Heathrow because they didn't provide access for my flash drive. I hope to post this one tomorrow.

Chris

A New Adventure Begins

2010-11-05T13:53:00.000Z

Wednesday 3rd November

I have just passed through security at Heathrow. I couldn't understand how I had set off the alarm! So I had to undergo a body search. You would think by now that I would know what I am doing – but security is always intimidating and having taken my laptop out of it's bag, taken off my belt and coat, and emptied my pockets of coins etc. I thought I had done enough. Having removed my sandals and put my essential flight documents in another tray, I realised I still had my mobile in another pocket – so after as few more checks I was allowed to gather my bits and put myself back together again!

We had an uneventful trip from Cheltenham and stopped for a few minutes at a service station to kill a little time. We bumped into Lucy – a friend from church - having a coffee and greeted her before continuing to Heathrow.

In the UK we all know about post office queues! The bag drop here at Heathrow is very efficient – USUALLY! There was only one couple in front of us but for some reason they were stuck. After a few minutes we changed queues for the one where 4 people had already passed since we arrived. Unfortunately this was a bad move, because the couple in front again got stuck. I moved back to my original spot where there was no longer a queue, but the couple returned! After 15 minutes I was dealt with and I spent 30 seconds dropping off my bags! I think they knew that, without a delay, Dilys would have saved £3 in parking charges and the authorities at Heathrow were determined to get their money! I said goodbye to Dilys and she rushed to take the car off to my daughter Helen, in Hampstead, where Dilys is doing a little child-minding tomorrow.

For this trip I started packing early – this allowed me to nip down to London on Monday to play with the grandchildren. However, having done most of the packing by the weekend I spent yesterday a bit confused as to what I should be doing and today I couldn't think whether I had packed everything – or even what I should have packed. In the end I decided that since I had two bags weighing 20 kg each I probably had enough!

Yesterday evening I was on the Internet at 6.30 pm waiting to check in. I had considered waiting till my son Andy and his two children Charlie and George arrived, but decided to go ahead. When I thought about it, having a 4 year old and a 7 year old trying to decide where I sat in the plane and how much luggage I should take, might not have been the best idea! So I enjoyed the game myself, checked in a couple of bags and moved myself to a seat towards the back, that isn't over the wing so that I can get a good view during my night flight .

So the adventure is about to begin. I spoke to Justine today and he will meet me at the airport. He has booked me a room at Chisamba Guest House so I will have a chance to meet up with some old friends such as Citride, the waitress who earlier in the year had to wade through deep water to get to work, and no doubt Sondash will be around to introduce meet to the visitors – by now of course I am regarded as a regular!

Best sent me a message via facebook yesterday to ask if I would call around to his college in Lusaka tomorrow when I arrive. I haven't heard from Jennipher recently, but she was planning to come to Lusaka to meet me. I hope Justine hasn't any work to do tomorrow!

I will finish my pint of Polish beer before trying to post this blog here in the departure lounge.

I am sure that as usual it will be an interesting visit – your prayers are much needed and always welcome.

Best wishes

Chris

Packing Already

2010-10-30T22:05:00.000+01:00

Saturday 30th October

Things are moving forward. The last week or two have been occupied with a few last minute purchases and other preparation for my trip.

I find myself panicking about the things I have yet to do and the less than firm arrangements at the other end. Yet I know in the depths of my soul that all will be well.

Today I spent a couple of hours with Dilys watching the past couple of episodes of the Big Silence that were shown recently on BBC2. For anyone who hasn't seen these programs they are well worth watching – of course if you really want to find God and change your life then you need to experience the silence for yourself.

There are many reasons why it was good to watch the programs today. Firstly as I mentioned I have been feeling under pressure of late – rushing here and there and never having a moment free. I was reminded how important it is to take time out and to be still. Secondly, I have experienced the 'Big Silence' personally. In 2006 I went to Loyola Hall – a Jesuit retreat centre for a 7 day silent retreat. I know what the people in the program experienced, because I too met God in the silence. It changed my life and whenever I stop and listen, he is still there beside me as a constant companion in my life. Thirdly it was Ruth Holgate, one of the spiritual guides appearing in the program and a good friend, who recognised my need and arranged my special retreat.

It was apparently by chance that I came across the BBC program The Big Silence, but then if you experience it you will know that is often how God works.

I was about to ring Jim and Jean a few days ago to find out where I could get one of the foldable holdalls that they lent me a year ago, when a postman arrived very early one morning with a parcel containing some beautiful hand knitted jumpers and a foldable holdall! I am sure that I will find some delighted children – though it will be a while before they need to wear the jumpers! It is currently about 22°C in Zambia! (And that's the overnight minimum!!)

I received my tickets a few weeks back now over the Internet. Having checked the dates, I looked at the luggage allowance – as expected 1pc. (I think that means one 23kg bag). With British Airways I fly World Traveller Class – otherwise known as economy! and yes the allowance is one 23kg bag. Now this always presents a bit of a problem. Hands Around the World are keen to ensure that I survive the trip so they give me a medical kit which equates to a small pharmacy! I then have a few friends who need laptops and cameras and solar chargers and solar lights and rechargeable batteries and well lots of things! Then there are some kind friends who give me gifts of jumpers, medical supplies, prayer books etc. which would be most welcome in Zambia. So I need to make sure of my personal allowance. It is a little tricky, but by logging on to BA and preparing for my flight I can get the full details of my flights and the associated conditions of travel. Once again the document I now have printed in front of me says I can check in 3 x 23 kg bags – thank you Lord, I didn't really want to leave that stuff behind – and I do have a lot of baskets and bags to bring back with me – not to mention a Christmas present or two!

Today Diven rang to ask me when I was arriving in Zambia and Jennipher is planning to meet me in Lusaka. Justine has promised to meet me at the airport , though my room back in Chisamba is occupied – I wait to see what is in store for me there! Accommodation in Monze seems to be secured, though I couldn't get hold of Sr. Barbara to confirm.

Last weekend I popped down to Hastings to spend a couple of days with my Dad. He is in his 90th year but was fit enough for a walk along the seafront and he put up well with my non-stop conversation. The Barrells have a certain gene which enables them to talk endlessly once they get going. So beware! We might seem shy to begin with, but given the opportunity we can bore anyone to death!

On Thursday we were invited to attend a play starring Helen, a friend of mine who I was privileged to pray for as she prepared for her first communion, some years back. My Fair Lady was performed by a local amateur dramatic society. Helen is now a good looking woman and was outstanding as Elisa Doolittle. I remember that I was preparing for my first trip to Zambia when Helen was celebrating her Confirmation in the Catholic Church. She had a party and I could only stay briefly because I was involved in a street collection, raising money for our trip, on that day.

Today I have started packing! For me this is very early, but I hope to get down to London on Monday to say cheerio to my daughter Helen, Demi her husband and Asia and Jack - two lovely grandchildren.

Although this trip is only 6 ½ weeks, it will be difficult to be away from the family again. In many ways it gets harder rather than easier with each trip. The fact that Dilys was so ill during my last trip makes it more difficult. I pray that this time she keeps well and enjoys the peace without me!

Bye for now, with my love and prayers

Chris

A new adventure is soon to begin

2010-10-16T20:48:00.003+01:00

16th October 2010

Six months after returning from Zambia I am about to make another visit.

As usual I am thinking that there must be a lot I need to do in preparation and no doubt the day before I leave I will be rushing around trying to do things I should be doing now.

The weather in Zambia will have been dry since I left – possibly with no rain at all in the intervening months. Temperatures are rising – low to mid thirties being the normal maximum daily temperature. Much of the green will have gone to be replaced by a grey-brown parched and dusty land.

I have been in regular touch with my friends back in Monze and Chisamba trying to keep track of progress. The reality though is that internet access and mobile phones cannot replace face to face contact. Only by sitting with a friend in Zambia can I start to overcome some of the vast differences between us. There are lots of difficult issues to discuss and somehow even the phone is too impersonal and it would be so easy to end up with misunderstandings.

(The picture here is of Choolwe with Jennipher and Soloman)

Diven has now remarried and his shop is moving forward slowly. Jennipher is doing wonderful work but has suffered another tragedy. Choolwe, who joined Jennipher last year from Zimbabwe with her daughters Margaret and Anna, died two weeks ago from measles. Choolwe must have been in her early twenties – though she seemed much younger. Her daughter Margaret is probably 6 or 7 and Anna only 1 year old. It is tempting to think that such a loss in Zambia can't be felt as painfully as in the UK, but having been with so many friends who have suffered bereavement in Zambia I am aware the pain is just as bad – even though it might be more common.

I received an e-mail today from a friend in the USA who had been reading a book written by someone who had been travelling through Africa and had come to the conclusion that NGOs did more harm than good by creating dependency. I wouldn't defend everything that NGOs do but I know that everyday I meet people who would not be alive but for donated ARVs or food supplements. I am also aware of many that would not have died if additional nutrition or medicines had been available. Of course if we had a fair world, where the poorest weren't exploited by the wealthy, the people of Zambia and other countries could become self-sufficient. There is currently a campaign run by Christian Aid and other aid agencies to get large multinational companies to publish details of how much tax they pay in countries where they work. It is believed that large amounts of money due to poor countries is not paid by some companies whose names we are very familiar with. It is unfairness like this that takes much more from the poorest than is provided by NGOs.

I am told that my room next to the chickens in Chisamba is still available – though a shed next door was recently burnt down. I still have to negotiate for accommodation in Monze.

As usual this blog will be fairly quiet until I set off on my journey on 3rd November – then no doubt pages will flow unchecked for the next few weeks. I hope that you will join me on this journey and that I am kept well in check by the one who is responsible for all that is good. Please pray for me as I prepare for another adventure.

With love and prayers

Chris